I'm totally jealous about the wood heat guys. I used to heat my house in Ontario with an old inefficient beast of a stove. We had great hardwood there, ash hickory, maples, oaks etc. This boreal forest crap in Alberta is nothing but birch, poplar, black spruce and tamarack. You won't get 4 hours of burn out of that stuff.
Trikes
1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
1972/73 US 90 Green
1982 ATC 70
1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
1973 ATC 70
1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain
TF 2015
Other
1983 Honda Z50
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I've heated with wood my whole life and I've never paid for it once. I did buy a couple chain saws and a splitter, but I do enjoy getting out there and messing with that stuff. My oil tank is still empty from last year and it'll probably stay that way unless I have to go away for a couple days and nobody is going to be here to tend the stove. I run a Russo. This is my second Russo actually. They're great stoves.
the heat sinks where used in a big switch essentially to cool some diodes! 3 diodes about the size of a cat food can where sandwiched between the ones you see, and one long piecw!
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here is the old stove!! beast of a thing! obviously not ideal for the location, but i did the best i could with it, and didnt burn any oil for 4 yrs!! got more room now with the add a hearth removedand i dont have to cringe every time my little guys go chasing eachother past it!!
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here is a better shot of the new install with make shift temp blower lol!
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^^^^LUCIFER^^^^
LOL!![]()
Trikes:
'85 ATC 350R
'85 ATC 250R
'86 ATC 350X
'85 ATC 350X
'84 ATC 200ES Big Red
'84 ATC 125M
'85 ATC 110
'85 ATC 70/110
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This is my early 80's Russo CW2. The CW stands for coal/wood. It can burn either. The 2 stands for the size. I don't know what size they go up to, but I have seen CW1's and it's literally the same stove at about half the size. I've burned a little bit of coal in the past, but I don't really anymore. I'm sure it's not as efficient as some of the newer or more efficient stoves, but it does the job. It has a built-in blower which I used to use primarily when bringing the house up to temperature. Once the house was warm, I'd shut it off. The blower is currently removed because I couldn't fit it once I installed the chimney liner but that's OK. Once I got the liner installed, there was no need for the blower.
A quick tip for my fellow wood burners- If you don't have a chimney liner, I HIGHLY suggest getting one. There are the obvious safety concerns with running a stove without a liner, but that's not the point I'm getting at here. I was told about 3 years ago to put a stainless liner from my stove all the way up the chimney. At the time I only had about 3 or 4 feet of black pipe going up the chimney where it just dumped from that point. Well, the problem with that setup is it will never draft correctly. I finally understood when somebody explained it to me this way-
If you've ever run an engine with either an open header or no exhaust manifold at all, you know that it doesn't run very smooth at all. You lose horsepower throughout the entire RPM range. A tuned exhaust system is in fact part of the combustion process and critical to normal engine performance and tuning. A wood stove is the exact same way. I put in a 6" stainless liner last year that goes to the top of my chimney and IS SEALED* (pay attention, we'll revisit this) at the top and has a cap. The difference is night and day. My stove drafts like a fricken jet engine now and burns fantastic on both low and high. Not only that, but if any creosote builds up in the liner, it simply falls down to the "T" behind my stove where the pieces gather and eventually burn off on their own inside the liner harmlessly.
*Back to the part about your chimney being sealed. As I said, for years I ran my stove with a short piece of black pipe going into the chimney. Not only is this bad for drafting, as I already said, but the other issue you run into is all of your hot air going straight up the chimney and out. The chimney drafts and it takes all of the hot air you're making with it. Obviously the point is to keep all of the hot air IN the house, not send it up and out the chimney. If you don't have a liner going all the way to the top with a sealed cap, your hot air is going to travel out with the draft.
I know there are many of you on here who already know all of this stuff, but I'm sure there are some who do not.
85 Tri-Zinger 60
85 ATC250SX
86 ATC250SX
87 ATC250SX
02 XR650L conversion
84 ATC 480R