New mini bike project

[barnett468]

hello dlmeyer

I can't see the back of the coil it should have one wire only which goes to the nut as it currently is. If it has a second shorter wire that is broken or loose that one goes to ground.

[barnett468]

hello

There is a small chance you may not get spark with the condenser disconnected on your particular system. If you find you have no spark at all with the condenser disconnected you can test your original one using the following method.


Do a functional check on capacitors , or condensers if you like , using a simple analog volt meter, the old kind with a meter that has a needle. Basically, set the meter to the ohms setting and measure the resistance. For a good capacitor, the needle should jump towards zero then move towards infinity as you make contact with it. Then switch the meter leads and do it again. This time the needle should jump about twice as far. The first time you are putting a charge of 1.5 volts on the capacitor. When you reverse the leads, you are reversing the charge so the needle will jump further. One end of the capacitor must be disconnected from the circuit. If the meter has some selection, choose a high resistance range.

If the needle stops at a resistance value other than infinity, it is leaking the charge and is bad.


Condenser test forum.

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21175



The condenser needs to match the coil if replaced.


NAPA coil and condenser , 7-01634 and 7-01338

Kohler coil and condenser, 41 519 21 S and 230722S

[coolpool]

I just realized today that the motor on my troybilt tiller that blew up last year is almost exactly the same. Going to scavange parts. I'm running into a problem with removing the fly wheel. any recomendations? I don't have a fly wheel puller.

I went to get pull rope and a twist throttle today. the guy had a crotch rocket mini bike in parts. I'm debating whether to take the rims and tires off of it so I could have disc brakes instead of a masher?

Don't want to steal the thread, but an old timer told me to remove the pull start ratchet, find where the flywheel key is located and hit the side of the flywheel directly opposite of the key way with a composite . Works every time for me.

[dlmeyer0325]

update on progress

[dlmeyer0325]

Finally got every thing sanded and ready for paint. Got a new chain and twist throttle and fenders. Put the engine back on and took it for a test drive hence the mud. I think it'll be some sort of blue. I'll make a new seat and then it'll be ready for sale. (after I run it up the road a few times)

[barnett468]

Finally got every thing sanded and ready for paint. Got a new chain and twist throttle and fenders. Put the engine back on and took it for a test drive hence the mud. I think it'll be some sort of blue. I'll make a new seat and then it'll be ready for sale. (after I run it up the road a few times)

hello

glad it runs however after i spent a while explaining how to check your ign id kinda like to know exactly what the problem was.


where did the ex pipe come from, it may cause the engine to run hot from too much back pressure.

[dlmeyer0325]

barnett-if I forgot thanks for the help before. the points were corroded and that ground wire was actualy put on for kill switch so I took it off. i used an ohm meter like you said and everything check good. so i knew it had to do with that wire. also a new plug gave me better spark. the pipe is just steel and the muffler is for a small engine. I was curious about the heat because the pipe gets extremely hot when only ran for a minute. would a straight pipe work better?

[barnett468]

Hello

Yes I specifically mentioned that was a kill wire in my previous post along with the points and other things so thanks for mentioning it.

I personally try to help others for fun but it becomes "unfun" for me at least if someone fixes their bike using my suggestions and never comes back to even say whether they fixed their bike or not so I don't know if my info was helpful and if I diagnosed their problem correctly. Knowing these things also helps others looking for answers to specific problems they have by reading these type of "repair" posts.

Now I am re-motivated to try and answer your exhaust question that I brought up to you the best I can for you but it may take me until tomorrow to do so. I won't forget about it

Thanks

[dlmeyer0325]

Again thanks for the knowledgable info. This is the first forum that I've actually posted in so I'm slowly learning the etiquette. Just found out that a coworker paints his own carts and midgets and he offered to paint it for me for a small fee. I origionally figured that I would just it and now have the paint for it. Not sure how much I want to invest in this thing if I'm just looking to sell it. Already have about $100 in it.

[barnett468]

Hello

No problem and no special etiquette required here that one wouldn't expect any where else however it does seen to get entertainingly raucus around here from time to time from what I have seen in my short tim being a "member".

I understand about the cost 100% and will suggest a cheap and simple best option for you if I can.

Do is say the bore and stroke on the motor anywhere?

Keep in mind they sold that near show quality orange show bike I posted for you on ebay for $300.00.

[barnett468]

Hello

Forgot to ask, how does it run, any lean spots, any rich spots [burbling] during acceleration?

Any pipe will run extremely hot it's not a problem.

Does it thread into the head or bolt up using a flange?

Almost all mini bike and lawnmower motors etc have a spark arrester built into the muffler which is highly restrictive but more quiet than a non spark arrester type muffler. If you want real tire burning performance then you need to find an aftermarket motorcycle muffler but you will have to drill the main jet out if it's not adjustable and it will be LOUD. Run it without your muffler for a minute to see what I mean if you want.

Since you are selling it this is what I would do. I personally would sand the exterior of the pipe until it was smooth to reduce the plumbing pipe look then when finished shaping it paint it high temp aluminum to match the muffler or high temp semi flat black.

Then I would reinstall it and mark the top of the ex pipe. remove pipe. thread it onto another 6" piece of plumbing pipe. clamp the 6" piece of pipe into the lower part of a vice [if it has round jaws below the std flat ones] with the top marks facing up. heat the pipe around 1-1 1/2 inches away from the threads on engine end of the pipe until it is nice and red. bend it up slowly until it reaches around a 30 degree angle 45 is too much. let it cool then heat it up around 8-10" from the threads and slowly make it exactly horizontal then let it cool. reinstall it on the bike [you probably have to remove the carb for this sorry], reinstall carb mark end of pipe so when your muffler is installed it will be either flush with the end of the air cleaner or just slightly beyond it by no more than 2-3". cut it off at the mark and rethread it. You can also just use a piece of pipe that will be around the right length when finished adding around an inch for the bend and thread an additional 12" piece of pipe to the muffler end for leverage. The purpose of bending the pipe is to keep the exiting ex gasses from blowing directly towards your rear fender burning the paint and also to clear the air cleaner. The reason to shorten it is to reduce back pressure thereby reducing excessive cylinder/combustion chamber heat plus it will look way cool.

You should install a new plug and check color after a high speed run, lol. to make sure it is not too lean.

Use valvoline vr1 racing oil in it or other non synthetic oil that has xtra zddp in it or you can possibly damage it.

[barnett468]

here's a stock one might hit your air cleaner.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1210620...Types&var=sbar