Plastic Adhesive

[Badbmwbrad]

I have two sets of ATC 110 rear fenders and would like to sandwich them together to make one double-thickness rear fender. The sub-fenders are cut away at critical areas so the upper fender will stack onto it.

What is a suitable adhesive for use in bonding the fenders together?

[Highhorse78]

I would just rough the two sides up really good and use a good quality 2 part epoxy.

[just ben]

I'm not even going to ask or guess why. construction adhesive should work and is cheap. or for a few bucks more silicone would work well. Ok I give up why???

[Badbmwbrad]

During fender replacement, while re-locating the original fender's metal hardware and seat onto the replacement fender set, it occurred to me that with some cutting in specific areas, the replacement fender could be stacked neatly atop the original.

In addition, the replacement fender has been previously crack-repaired (by others) by melting its underside along the crack's length. During recent rear wheel/tire/hub/chain guard maintenance (while one side of the ATC rear axle was cribbed with dunnage), the machine started falling over, I instinctively grabbed a fender to stabilize it and the fender's leading edge split open along a crack-repaired fault line.

I concluded that fender reinforcement would be appropriate as the crack-repaired fenders will never be as strong as when they were new (its a 1985 ATC 110).

Is construction adhesive the material which comes packaged in a cartridge for use in a caulking gun? Is there a particular variety which has proven to reliably bond the ATC's type of plastic?

I'm not even going to ask or guess why. construction adhesive should work and is cheap. or for a few bucks more silicone would work well. Ok I give up why???

[just ben]

yes in caulk tubes. The solvent based are stronger than the voc compliant glue but it skins over quickly and once it skins it wont adhere to anything.The urethane based is very strong but is messy. I would probably use liquid nails tub and shower surround adhesive

[kb0nly]

I have glued plastic of this type together with the black urethane based sealant pretty easily, man you better have it sitting right though, cause once that crap dries its pretty well lifetime permanent.

[JasonB]

chewing gum



much larger project than mine, but I used epoxy (2 part you mix) to mend my 86 250r headlight. We will see how strong it is and how it holds up at the invasion. Might be wishin I had just drilled and stitched her back together if the epoxy doesnt hold out there

[Gripit'n'ripit]

JB weld does NOT work well in this kind of application. I know what you're thinking (but JB weld can fix anything....). I tried using it to stick together an air box and it failed miserably.
Something that will meld the materials together works well. Construction adhesive mentioned works well since it binds to EVERYTHING pretty well.

[kb0nly]

JB Weld fixes pretty much NOTHING.. I have never had a successful repair with the crap, it just falls off.

[RubberSalt]

I've had much success with JB weld. Gotta be prepper correctly. Hell, we've coated intakes in JB weld and ported them till there was nothinb but JB left LOL. (dads 427 max wedge satelite).

JB works when prepped like so. Rough, very rough surface. try 60 grit sand papper. Clean. Very clean. Use carb cleaner /brake cleaner. Thin layers, not thick. coat, rough, clean, repeat. JB weld can be thinned with Acetone also. Makes it runnier to pour easier.

BUUTT for this application, I'd use silicone. The fenders need a sealant that can flex and bend. Silicone. If possible, the copper kind, or the black for color lol . Rough both halves and clean very well. Prepping is extremely critical for any bond.

[Badbmwbrad]

Thanks for the responses. I carved up my spare set of rear fenders with a hacksaw and Dremel tool in a hopeless effort to get them to sandwich beneath the replacement fenders but they just won't fit. There was a lot of pink-colored fender sawdust all over me and the surrounding area.

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/home.htm

For plastic adhesive, I settled upon a cartridge of E-6000 available for $9.00 at Aubuchon Hardware. With the replacement rear fenders inverted, I used a caulking gun and cartridge of E-6000 to reinforce the crack repairs. The E-6000 is fairly low viscosity solvent-based (perchloroethylene solvent) construction adhesive. It's the same material as Shoe Goo and is made by the same company.

E-6000 runs, sags and it pooled in the low spots of the inverted fenders. It's about 3/8" thick right beneath the fender's highest curvature where the crack repairs are located. This is pretty thick so it will take about three days for all of the Perchloroethylene solvent to evaporate. What remains behind is a clear flexible adhesive which is invulnerable to vibration and it has a temperature service range of -40 to 150 °F. It adheres well to ABS plastic. ASTM D 903 adhesion test result for ABS plastic yielded an average value for 180° peel of 32 pli.

If I have to glue the fenders again then I'll use the E-6100 because it's higher viscosity and won't run or sag.

[RubberSalt]

I can't recall exactly what plastic fenders are made of, but they arn't ABS. They are impregnated with oil, makes it hard for them to weld/melt/adhere to. A good rough surface would do wonders on them with that stuff i imagine. I can't wait to see the finished results and see how well that holds up.

[kb0nly]

I thought they were ABS... Now you got me curious. I have an old 200 front fender cracked down the middle and a plastic welder kit with various material types of repair rods. I will have to play with it and see what sticks.

[Badbmwbrad]

I used E-6000 construction adhesive to repair cracked rear fenders on an ATC 110. The fenders had originally been repaired using a soldering gun tip to melt the cracked edges together from the underside but the repair was starting to fail.

The E-6000 is a clear-colored construction adhesive. I inverted the fenders and used half-cartridge-worth on each fender. E-6000 is as thick as molasses in January but it runs, sags and it pooled in the low spots; exactly beneath the multiple-cracked fender areas.

After waiting a week for all of the Perchloroethylene solvent to evaporate, my rear fenders are exceptionally well reinforced beneath the cracks. The E-6000 looks like a small clear puddle but it has a consistency of hard rubber and adheres tenaciously to the plastic.

I did some more touch-up work to the fender's edges this weekend using much less E-6000 from a tin tube. It cured overnight and my rear fenders are good-to-go!