Power User
Got the holeshot
Man... oh man....
I am not sure what I am doing wrong here but the rear fender is way harder than the front. I think its a different grade plastic. Seems softer.... the front fender is more like the 250R tank.
Here are the shots.
I started with wetsanding at:
160 - this was dry sanded..is that my trouble? Are these the dry sand scratches still there?
220
600
800
1500
2000
3000
Wool pad - swirl remover
Wool pad - polish
3 M compound - foam pad
3 M Machine Polish - foam pad
Here is the pic:
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1986 ATC 250r, 1986 Tri Z, 1990 LT 500R "Quadzilla"
Dirtbikes:
1994 KTM 550 MXC (yes its a two stroke...66 hp stock!)
1988 Yamaha DT
Power User
Got the holeshot
I think 160 220 and 600 r way too heavy. They make such deep marks its impossible to get them out. Just my thought on it though.
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Power User
Got the holeshot
You might be right....so wonder what to do now?
SEND ME PM HERE - CLICK HERE
1986 ATC 250r, 1986 Tri Z, 1990 LT 500R "Quadzilla"
Dirtbikes:
1994 KTM 550 MXC (yes its a two stroke...66 hp stock!)
1988 Yamaha DT
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
Correct. I have never polished one yet, But ,I 'd say 4-500 would be the most aggressive you should have started with. You'll get them.. You're just gonna have to wet sand your hands off!! Good luck !
Please help those who cannot help themselves.
ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.
I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!
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Just Too Addicted
Arm chair racerJust too addicted
Had that same problem w/ my 200x front fender and that was the only conlcusion I could come up with. Start in the 400-500 range. I started with 180 wet sanding the whole process and never could get all my sanding lines out and I sanded a lot!! Eventually, I just used a product called New Glass 2. It basically just puts a clear coat on the plastic, but man does it shine. I put about 10 coats on my fender and it sealed up a lot of the sanding lines that wouldn't buff out. I don't know if it holds up long term, but this fender looks brand new for right now.
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
The compound should be used first after the sanding on the wool pad. The polish and swirl remover are to remove the the swirl and fine scratches left from the compund and wool pad. The compound is a cutting agent. Remember I said the fenders are more difficult and I agree the rear fender seems to be slightly softer compound.
Power User
Got the holeshot
Yes I did get the 3M compound and will work on that.
I also think I might have to go in and work the 600 grade like crazy. Will I ever get out those deeper ones? Or should go rougher?
SEND ME PM HERE - CLICK HERE
1986 ATC 250r, 1986 Tri Z, 1990 LT 500R "Quadzilla"
Dirtbikes:
1994 KTM 550 MXC (yes its a two stroke...66 hp stock!)
1988 Yamaha DT
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
Are the deep ones scratches that were there or caused by the sanding. On deep scratches I normally use 320-400 on a DA sander till there gone then wet sand. I only use the DA sander on the deep scratched area.
Power User
Got the holeshot
no I think I made those with us some deep sanding on using a pretty course grade so I'm wondering do I get the next grade finer and then wet sand wet until are gone or what
SEND ME PM HERE - CLICK HERE
1986 ATC 250r, 1986 Tri Z, 1990 LT 500R "Quadzilla"
Dirtbikes:
1994 KTM 550 MXC (yes its a two stroke...66 hp stock!)
1988 Yamaha DT
Power User
Got the holeshot
Is a DA sander an orbital or rotary?
SEND ME PM HERE - CLICK HERE
1986 ATC 250r, 1986 Tri Z, 1990 LT 500R "Quadzilla"
Dirtbikes:
1994 KTM 550 MXC (yes its a two stroke...66 hp stock!)
1988 Yamaha DT
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
DA is dual action. Same as a random orbit pretty much. Spins and gyrates.
Power User
Got the holeshot
Alright...I"ll be back on it tonight...coffee brewing late night and the sanders going wild.
I'll post some update pics!
SEND ME PM HERE - CLICK HERE
1986 ATC 250r, 1986 Tri Z, 1990 LT 500R "Quadzilla"
Dirtbikes:
1994 KTM 550 MXC (yes its a two stroke...66 hp stock!)
1988 Yamaha DT
Power User
Got the holeshot
Great video here:
SEND ME PM HERE - CLICK HERE
1986 ATC 250r, 1986 Tri Z, 1990 LT 500R "Quadzilla"
Dirtbikes:
1994 KTM 550 MXC (yes its a two stroke...66 hp stock!)
1988 Yamaha DT
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
600 and plenty of time,and go up from there, and it will be like new...but you are gonna have to put in some hours in,but you will be happy with the out come
(got to agree with crazy70man) 1 VERY UNDERSTANDING WIFE
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Power User
Roostin Away
Well said, I always started with 800 grit then moved my way up, Also NEVER dry sand, that just makes more scrathces and always rinse off the fender and sandpaper. When wet sanding ,plastic will build up in the sandpaper and will scratch the plastic if you do not rinse often. Here is a picture of a 200X fender I sanded and buffed with a synthetic wool bonnet, I never used any polish at all, it looked shiny and almost NOS, you can only see super fine swirls in the direct sunlight and in the shade it looked PERFECT. I would say polish with Nano wax on a foam pad would make it perfect but i am not sure. The 86-87 200X fender has NO wax or polish on it, just the result of 2000 grit wet sand and a random orbital buffer with a synthetic wool bonnet dry buff with NO compounds used.
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