Thought's on a 250 85 tri-z

[BiGDawG]

I though the fluid in the rad moving meant the pump was working?

[TimSr]

I though the fluid in the rad moving meant the pump was working?

Its does.

Provided you have adequate coolant and the radiator is full, and it is flowing, and you know that it is coolant, not just water, put the cap on, start it up, and give it a few full revs while watching the overflow. Does it spit with each shot of the throttle? Keep watching it as it warms up. It should get worse as it warms, but will spit coolant before it even reached full opertaing temp. If its does this, your head gasket is leaking, whcih is a common problem on these things due to head warpage and past overtightening. When head and cylinder surfaces are less than a perfect match, Cometic (Wiseco) head gaskets seal far better than metal ones, and a nice film of Copper Coat on it helps with the seal and the heat transfer.

If you aren't getting a coolant spit while driveway testing, rinse the coolant off, and wait until you can recreate the problem and see what is going on, and verify a relationship between coolant spitting and RPMs. The worst thing you can do is tear it apart and start swapping parts without first diagnosing the cause. Keep in mind, they do sometimes occasionally emit some coolant when being pushed, when everything is fine. Thats whay that bottle is on the end of the hose to begin with.

Doing some plug checks is always good with a new machine, but even if you run lean enough to melt the piston, it won't likely cause any external signs of overheating or blowing coolant.

[volfan537240]

I don't know much about tri-z's but I do know a bit about banshees ans they will puke coolant out of the overflow when running too lean and they both use similar setups.

Could also be the radiator cap.

[Tri-Z 250]

I'd check the water pump every Tri z that I have bought has had a bad pump.

#1 reason a Z gets parked in the barn corner...Most people being cheap in nature never replaced the impeller or the seals/gaskets involved in the waterpump area of the motor. When most original owners blew the motor the frist time around...they bore it, slap a piston, rings, and gasket on the top not knowing the faults of the Z system. They bring it home runs great for about 2hrs and then Bam! the motor smokes and the topend is junk. When you do your rebuild pin the impeller....search for the thread it's in 3WW. This is a fixable problem with soild results you just need to correct a $2.00 part to save a $200+ bore. Any Z you buy always drain the crank case...its a quart of oil(no big deal) if it's not clean, milky or grey in any way...pump seal failure and if the topend isn't blown yet it will be soon.

[BiGDawG]

alright i'll go give that a try here in a few i want to extend the kill switch to a more reachable area while on it. and i'll check the oil with my next check what type of oil dose it take? would it be the same as the x?

[volfan537240]

Find out which kind of oil is in it now. Swapping to a different type could cause the clutch to slip.

[tri-Z ripper]

I run the best but that's me. Amsoil ATF highest thermal breakdown compared to oil and super light but high viscosity. Used to run Spectro platinum clutch saver good but a buddy who is a race mechanic turned me onto the ATF it looks like blood when it leaks to so you know what it is.

[volfan537240]

I run atf type f

[MTS]

So, get that yamaha running right?? still want to see some good pics of that swingarm

[BiGDawG]

work then sleep and repeat lol, i gotta get up early and fax my pay roll in i'll get some pics then.

while i'm thinking about it anyone know what wire is positive for the headlights? there's a black and a black with a white line, i have no stock kill / headlight switch, kill switch is mounted else where on the bike and i plan on hooking the baja lights to a toggle

[MTS]

The black is your light ground and black/white is your ignitionswitch, your light is yellow and green if i remember right yellow is high beam green low, ill double check mine today and let you know.

[BiGDawG]

ok yea my ignition is missing lol replace by a toggle, uh i'll have to look and see if i can find any green or yellow wire's, i think i'm gonna take the bike to a local 2 stroke guy and have him check it out i took a ride around the 20 acres today barley hit 3rd gear cause its 2 wet and when i went to part it i noticed i was leaving a trail of gas lol and when i shut it down a tiny bit of coolant leaked out, my camera batteries died before i could get a video so the 1 i'm posting sounds like garbage gotta love cheap phone cameras lol

audio sucks make sure your sound is low lol video was when i first started it up haven't ran it since i brought it home, fired up second kick
http://youtu.be/PuKp5iID6KA

and pictures i got before batteries died


do i really need this?

[BiGDawG]

better video.. let me buddy ride it and a coolant line splits in half, but i mean just on the short ride i love the power of it huge difference even going from that to my buddy's 400ex

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaIYO...MTj7pZDzT25coA

Can I use reg antifreeze?