225dx No Power...

[redsox]

I wish i knew 1/100th of what these guys know. this thread is awesome!!!! this site is awesome.

[El Camexican]

Alright so, I turned my pilot in untill I heard the engine change and that backed it out 1/4 of a turn. I had it set at stock which is turn in untill it lightly seats and then back it out 1 1/2 turns. I ended up turninf it in about 1/2 a turn I think. I didn't get a chance to play with the needled. I did notice though, if I turn it off even for a minute it will go back to the problem I had before. You can the gas and just have no acceleration. You can feel that it wants to get up and go bu it just wont do it. It only lasts for a minute or two then goes back to full power. Outran my buddies blaster. When it gets "the problem" it sounds, wet fartish I guess is the best way I can describe it

You've lost me. "Feel a change"? It should have stalled after a couple seconds if you closed the screw. Did you snap the throttle open from idle with the engine warm and adjust till there was no bog? How many turns from closed are you now, one? Is your screw located closer to the air box from the carb slide, or closer to the engine? I really need to know this. Watch this video. It is about a 2 stroke, but the principals are the same.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVzqqpgviyI

[barnett468]

Hello


Read your previous post very good.

I am guessing you still have your old pipe. I know you want to try and fix what you can until you get your pipe but if you change too much now you may be redoing things again once it is on as I and others previously mentioned.

xxxxx

Alright so, I turned my pilot in untill I heard the engine change and that backed it out 1/4 of a turn. I had it set at stock which is turn in untill it lightly seats and then back it out 1 1/2 turns. I ended up turninf it in about 1/2 a turn I think. I didn't get a chance to play with the needled.

Why did you change the screw setting?

Once the screw setting was changed did it continually idle steady or did the idle rpm change up or down?

If idle changed after idling a while how long did it take to change?

When it is warm does it restart and idle EXACTLY the same?

xxxxx

I did notice though, if I turn it off even for a minute it will go back to the problem I had before.

What problem exactly are you talking about, idle or acceleration flat spot?

When it decides to run well EXACTLY how long does it run well for, the ENTIRE time you keep it running or does it still revert back to the no power condition?

xxxxx

You can the gas and just have no acceleration. You can feel that it wants to get up and go bu it just wont do it. It only lasts for a minute or two then goes back to full power.


It either goes or it doesn’t, how can you determine it wants to go? Please don’t use this type of description it isn’t helpful, it is not SCIENTIFIC. Use the following.

1. It “burbles/sputters [too rich] upon acceleration.

2. I does NOT burble/sputter upon acceleration, it simply “bogs” [same as flat spot] which is too lean.

3. It “pops” or intermittently cuts out like an electrical short.

Is this now an INTERMITTENT problem or constant?

xxxxx

Outran my buddies blaster. When it gets "the problem" it sounds, wet fartish I guess is the best way I can describe it

Please describe “fartish” by using one of the explanations/terms I mentioned above.

[barnett468]

Hello Splangeland and El Camexican


"I had it set at stock which is turn in untill it lightly seats and then back it out 1 1/2 turns. I ended up turninf it in about 1/2 a turn I think."

1 1/2 out from full in, then beck in 1/2 = 1 turn out from full in, is this correct?

[splangeland]

El Camexican: What I did was let it idle and just turned the screw in t 1/4 turn increments while it was idling. I did it until the engine slowed down then I turned it back 1/4 turn. Now after watching that video I see that I should have done it how you described. After I turned the screw back 1/4 turn when it slowed down I just jabbed the throttle to make sure it didn't bog and called it good. Now I will do it how you described. My screw is located on the complete bottom side of the carb towards the engine. My manual says you have to take it off to adjust it but with a little ingenuity you can do it while it on the trike. I am about 1 turn from closed.

Barbett468: Yes its still my old pipe. The auction doesn't end for another 4 days. I played with the screw like Camexican said in post 33 but now discovered I did it wrong so I will have to re-do it. I would like to get it as close to how it should be without my muffler so it runs good in case I don't win the muffler. When I turned the screw in once I turned it in the last 1/4 down the engine slowed down almost immediately so I turned it a 1/4 turn back. The idle was steady. As far as I can remember it starts and idles the same. When I turn it off for a second that's when I have acceleration problem. Once it runs good it stays running good until I shut it off again. I am not 100% positive since I've don't know what it would sound like but I would say it doesn't burble/sputter but I wouldn't say it really bogs either its just plain slow. Example; We got to the end of a road and shut them off so we could talk. We fired them back up and decided to race. I mashed the gas and just plain had no acceleration, but once I was through about 4th gear I gained my acceleration and when we came to a stop and raced it again it ran just fine. As far as wet fartish, I don't know how to explain that I'm sorry. Yes the screw was about 1 turn out from closed.

[barnett468]

Hello

I don't remember if someone mentioned this yet, sorry if it's a repeat. With your new info it sounds EXACTLY like your mechanical ignition advance is sticking. Runs fine untill you turn it off, then it sticks and runs bad untill it breaks free again from centrifugal force. Once it is broken free it can not not lock up untill you stop because there is too much centrifugal force on it to allow it to.

Take a look at it CLOSELY if all looks good and feel free then just grease it anyway and try again. check scarring on bushings check EVERYTHING.


Hope this works.

[splangeland]

Someby had said something about that on a thread I started earlier but I thought it was all done through cdi on these

[barnett468]

Someby had said something about that on a thread I started earlier but I thought it was all done through cdi on these

Hello

Yes I just looked it up that is correct, bummer. At this point all I can think of is to just get a new carb and if that doesn't do it then get another CDI.

[barnett468]

Hello


Here is another manual. I posted one earlier also.


IGNITION PICK UP UNDER CAM GEAR

http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manual...225-fm200l.pdf

[El Camexican]

Your symptom of running good one time and then being way down on power the second time is bazaar. The electronics should not fluctuate, you don’t have a mechanical advance mechanism and your carb is clean, so any problem with it should be consistent. The only thing that makes sense at this point is that your brakes are sticking intermittently as was mentioned before. i.e. All is well, you stop, and the brake does not release and then the next time you start it and drive the brakes are dragging and holding back the engine. Then, say in forth gear you hit a bump and they free up. Take a good look at them. Next time you stop, roll the trike back and forth before you take off again to see if they are free and if you still have the same problem without touching the brakes. Also, if it is running poorly stop and see if the brakes are hot. Some people end up putting their foot on the rear brake without realizing it. If you are doing that the brake will be hot enough to fry your hand.

Oh, we now know that your "screw" is a fuel screw, not an air screw, so the more you open it the more fuel comes in. If it is taking forever to run without the choke you need to open it (turn it out) If you get to 2.5 turns out and it still bogs and takes a long time to come off the choke you need a larger pilot jet.

[barnett468]

Hello

Looks to me El Camexican is also using they process of elimination process like the one I previously posted and has also come up with an expansion of vealmnonkey’s previous suggestion. I think you should try his suggestion first. Then if you are sure it is not your problem I think you are relegated to simply changing parts one at a time like I mentioned.


An electrical part can have an intermittent problem however it is half way uncommon. This typically occurs after the part gets hot then it works again when it is cool.


Is your problem only when it is hot?

If you instantly stop then restart it does the problem occur?

Unfortunately looks like the end of the line

[splangeland]

Well guys I just don't know anymore. I spent the better part of this afternoon dinkin' around with the carb. It seemed like no matter how much adjustment I made it never really seemed to bog like the dirtbike in the video. It was actually really hard to even notice a slight difference. I moved the clip on the needle up and down and couldn't say as I really saw to much of a difference. When I felt a loss of power I jumped off and grabbed the breaks and they weren't really hot. Whenever it looses power it pops really bad. Normally it doesn't really pop but when it looses power it sounds like a machine gun going off when you let off the gas. I just got done riding it a little while ago so I'm going let it cool down and check the spark, then ride it for a while and check it again to see if it looses spark or if it gets weaker. That was why I replaced my coil. Once it got good and warmed up my spark would go from nice fat blue to a skinny orange/blue spark.

[El Camexican]

[QUOTE=splangeland;1217219]Whenever it looses power it pops really bad. Normally it doesn't really pop but when it looses power it sounds like a machine gun going off when you let off the gas.QUOTE]

That sounds either electrical, or like you have a leak at exhaust port. I've never heard of an intermmitantly leaking exhaust, so I'm going with electrical at this point. You can take the carb off your list of possible problems. You have something else wrong. When you get that fixed you can come back to the carb and jet it.

Have you looked at (inside) your kill switch? I've heard of misfires being caused by loose or dirty contacts. If it's not that then it may be time to take this trike into a shop for a check-up. I'm guessing the right guy could figure this out in a few minutes if he had his hands on the trike.

This is where I sign out and wish you luck.

[barnett468]

Hello

Yeah as mentioned, cdi, coil, or ign trigger. Popping is now electrical or intermittent stuck valve. intake pop is intake valve ex is ex vakve but this is only a possibility if it pops on acceleration also as I previously mentioned.

[splangeland]

El Camexican: I will have to take it apart and look at it. Thanks for all the help!

Barnett468: No it doesn't pop on acceleration. I have been really busy lately but hopefully I will get some time to look into the electronics