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Thread: 1985 Honda 200 m atc - no compression

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
    --
    3,415
    Quote Originally Posted by prairie redneck View Post
    Thanks man.
    Think I got them this time. Going to pull the piston next. What do you estimate the cost of this little project??


    Attachment 169591Attachment 169592
    A bit early to talk $$$, you haven't finished your damage recon..get that finished and make of a detailed list of the parts you'll need.

    There'll be more..you haven't found the really bad stuff yet!
    Current toys..
    1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
    1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
    1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
    Current non-trike toys:
    1990 Honda TRX300FW
    1995 Seadoo GTX
    1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
    1998 Polaris Touring 500
    1998 Club Car (electric)

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    saskatchewan
    --
    10
    Having trouble removing the piston pin. Any suggestions???
    Also, is it normal to have a little side play in your in your piston?

    Thanks.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    saskatchewan
    --
    10
    Having trouble removing the piston pin. Clips are off each side. Moves back and forth about 1/4". Any pointers??? Just didn't want to force it too much. Also, how much side play should there be in the piston?

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    South Florida
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    6,811
    Up and down play their should be none , side to side is ok . Tap the pin out it shouldn't take much effort .
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  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    MN
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    3,263
    If that pin don't come right out with little force tap it out but be careful not to scratch up the inside of the rod end with whatever you use to punch it, it shouldn't take much effort.

    My cost estimate... $150-$200 depending on the condition of the cylinder, if you can get by with just a hone and a stock piston and rings and a top end gasket kit your more on the $100-$150 range, if the bore is scored up from the piston coming apart your going to have to bore and hone, either way you need a new piston and rings so the cost stays the same as far as gaskets and parts, its just whether or not you need a shop to do a bore and hone on it.

    Also don't forget to rebuild the head, at least clean it and remove all the carbon buildup from it and the exhaust port, remove the valves and clean up the seats and lap them in if they measure up ok, main thing is replace those damn valve stem seals while you have it this far down, cause otherwise you will be doing it again later when they start leaking!! LOL
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  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
    --
    3,415
    I've had a couple that were pretty stuck before..

    I use a couple small pieces of wood between the piston and the jug pins to steady and support.

    Then a 3/8 socket extension piece as a punch..a few taps with a . At this point you aren't too concerned about your piston and pin, they're already casualties..you just don't want to bend or damage your connecting rod..
    Current toys..
    1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
    1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
    1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
    Current non-trike toys:
    1990 Honda TRX300FW
    1995 Seadoo GTX
    1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
    1998 Polaris Touring 500
    1998 Club Car (electric)

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    saskatchewan
    --
    10
    Got it!! Definitely needed the . It all looks to be in very rough shape. The piston pin is even bad in the middle.

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  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Arizona
    --
    71
    From the look of the pin, you may need a new rod.
    Check it for missing chunks.
    Maybe able to hone it smooth, but it may make it out of tolerance.

    Did you run out of oil? Looks like it. Damage along with the cam.
    Might also want to pull the right case and check the oil singer and oil pump for damage.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,129
    Ouch that looks like pretty major damage there, my guess would be a bore is in order. I agree with my1423, atlast pull the side cover off for the oil pump pickup and do some cleaning up.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Arizona
    --
    71
    If you do fix this engine and want to buy a piston kit ect, Rigid hone the cylinder prior to having it boarded or ordering a piston.
    This will remove the chunks and make sure there are no deep gouges cracks in the sleeve.
    Do not want to buy a piston then find out the sleeve is to far gone and you need to buy the next size up piston.
    Probably ok but better safe then sorry.

    If you want a little more power and want to save a few bucks get an xr200 kit.
    10-1 compression, more power, harder to pull start. Stock 8-1
    Stock size 65.5 Your bore should be 65.0 mm
    Ebay has wiseco top end kits for 100$
    Stock xr200 wiseco kit part number 4156M06550 next up 4156M06600 then 650 700

    While you are at it get a new timing chain. I always change the chain when doing a piston. 20$ and prevents certain issues
    Check the valves and guides. Local shop can give a free estimate on the head and tell if anything is needed.
    Have them also check the cam and bearing sleeve. Might have to emry cloth the journal a bit.

    The rod might clean up with emry as well.
    Get it miced

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Pacific NW
    --
    4,255
    Sorry about that.
    I don't see much of an indicator for the 'aluminum filings' you describe so far.

    I'd be seriously tempted to pull side covers and clean real good but also
    look for the source, as mentioned.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    saskatchewan
    --
    10
    It was not out of oil, but got VERY warm. I believe the aluminum would have come from the piston. Either way, it's a major. Thanks for everything so far. Just looking for a shop now to take it to.

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