cant get side cover back on right side of transmission on 85 sx

[gladiator mice]

working on the 85 sx i took the right side apart and replaced the one way clutch, got everything back together. wiggled the side cover back into spot and found out it still had a slight gap on the bottom. pulled it off again to find that the reverse stopper spring falls down once the cover is in position. put the side cover back in position and tried to push the spring up with a flat head screw driver. that did not work well. spring gets stuck between the trans case and housing. i was pondering whether to dump the spring but then realized the trike needs it for the reverse to work correctly. is there an easy way to keep this spring from falling down when putting the housing back on. i was thinking to take the outside reverse lever off and lining up the spring in the correct position, putting the housing back in position and once bolted together re attach the revers outside lever back in the correct position. i have a feeling when i turn the outside lever out of the way of the frame thats when the spring drops down and gets in between the trans case and housing.

[tri again]

wow, I was just in there last summer but forget that part.
I did have mine dead level on it's side so maybe that would help?

Where is flying w when we need him?
Might still be in the storm cellar.

[Jason125m]

I had my right side off of my 250es a few years ago. I used a tiny little dab of grease on the spring to hold it in place. Hope it helps.

[mike84bigred]

I do recall that being hard. Like tri again said, try tipping it over on its side a bit. May take a few tries, but you'll get it eventually.

[Larry T Moore]

did you line all the little marks up?...you do have to remove the bottom lever before it will go back on and its a little tricky...but once you do it will slide right on....just changed the cam chain in mine a month ago...good time to clean the screen and change the oil filter too....and pay attention to your reverse/neutral wiring...mine was all crappy and fell apart...puledl my extra off my BIG RED motor

[gladiator mice]

so below will be the complete process for those who have to change a one way clutch. feel free to chime in if i left something out.

first off a clean area to work in would be nice. drain your oil, if its fresh or newer then drain into clean container. remove the skid plate and right foot peg. mark the kick starter before removing it. remove the oil line bolt, be sure to put it somewhere that it will not get mixed up with other bolts because it has a special hole for flow. detach the reverse/ neutral light wires and detach reverse cable from lever. once the reverse cable is off, remove the bolt holding the lever to the reverse shaft and grab yourself a flat head screw driver and pop it off. should release nicely because the shaft end is coned some. next remove all bolts holding on clutch housing. you may run into a problem with the one bolt that is practically resting on the frame. best way is to remove the two rear motor mount bolts completely and if necessary there are two on the front that can be removed also. wedge a chisel or large screw driver in just enough to get a socket on that one housing bolt. when you have made sure every thing is removed from the housing sometimes tapping it with a leather will break the gasket/sealer free. a little wiggling is necessary. don't worry about things falling out or flying, nothing should come out. once the cover is off, don't crap your pants while looking at what you just uncovered.

removing the cyntrifical clutch is easy if you have an air gun or ratchet. the clutch towards the front is the one you want to remove. for any first timers such as myself you must know that the big nut you want to remove is a LEFT HANDED NUT. the threads go the opposite way ( right to loosen, left to tighten). an air gun will break it free. DO NOT shock it with a you will either crack or break the crank shaft. once the nut is removed you will be able to slide the clutch off the crank.

to replace the one way clutch its best to dissemble on a table. remove all four C-Clips from the studs. be sure not to lose them. once all four are off, remove the top ring two more rings will be below it. the middle ring is actually raised in the center so it will sit inside the ring below it. next remove the springs holding the clutch fingers tight. try not to lose the springs. slide each finger off the studs. pull the inner wheel out. below it you will see the one way clutch. it should drop out or may need help with some tapping. replace with your new one-way. re assemble the clutch in the backwards order you took it apart in. the inner wheel goes in first. it may be easier to put the one way on the inner wheel first then put the two into the outer clutch. once together put your fingers back in place. they must be able to touch the walls easily so make sure they move and touch first before putting your springs back on. once the springs are on put the disc with the raised edge in first with edge up. take the second disc that has a bowl shape to it. it will sit nicely inside the bottom one followed by the top one. if you have a clamp or c-clamp now is the time to use it. compress the discs easily so you can put on each c-clip with out fighting it. do all four one at a time. once the clutch is together it should spin one way but not the other.

take the rebuilt clutch and slide it onto the crank, you can grease up the splines to help it onto the crank easier. put the washer on and then the left handed nut. you can start the nut but it will be better if you use the air gun to tighten it up, REMEMBER left to tighten and right to loosen. once the clutch is on find the reverse finger with the coil spring on it. if you look closely under the clutch in towards the back you will see the reverse shaft (i think that's what it is). make sure the finger is under it to start. get a flat head screw driver and help the spring up into the bottom of the trans at the same time you have to tap the reverse rod and finger back into place. this might take a few times before you get the shaft and spring into place. when done the tip of the reverse finger should be under the reverse shaft and lined up with the nub, the other end of the reverse finger should be touching a nub on the bottom of the trans housing. make sure the other end of the coil spring is in the notch on the reverse finger. when everything is ready make sure the gasket is good or if you have a new one make sure you remove all the old gasket on both edges. if you don not have a gasket grab some silicone sealer( your auto shop will have it). silicone one side. the trans will be the best that way when you put the clutch housing back on you wont ruin it with your hands. when the goop is ready by the time you wiggle the housing back into place the silicone should be tacky. when you get the housing started make sure the reverse finger shaft is in its hole, followed by the kick start shaft. you may have to tip it left and right because the exhaust bracket may get in the way. once its almost on it will require a little more wiggling to get the crank shaft to seat nicely into its bearing. if you hear a ping or odd sound you may have accidentally moved the reverse finger/shaft from its spot so pull the clutch housing off again and fix the reverse finger and spring. once the housing is back in place and sits flush to the trans start bolting it back together. i went every other bolt for a good pattern to make sure no warping happened. once the clutch housing is tight start re assembling your parts. dont forget that special bolt for the oil line on top of the motor. re attach your reverse cable lever. on the the lever you will see three holes. ignore them, look closely and you will find a fourth mark that is slightly smaller possible near the edge, this is a marker. right above the reverse finger shaft that is sticking out of the housing you will find a notch triangle on the housing. line the two up and tight it down with the bolt you took off earlier. re attach your reverse cable. make sure you can pull in your reverse clutch handle and the reverse lever you just put on moves up and down. install your motor mount bolts and foot pegs. fill her up with some good atv oil. if you want change the filter before starting your atc. make sure you have no leaks. if you used silicone to seal the housing wait a few hours before putting oil in your trike. should take 2 quarts and some. make sure your reverse works. ride it some and shut it off. you should not hear anymore squealing or a clunk when parts stop moving.

this is just my process. if you got more or other ways of doing this fixing please add.

[Flyingw]

Im a little confused where you are runnning in to problems. The reverse stopper lever and spring are installed then the cover is installed. The spring is installed with the stopper using a screwdriver to lift the end of the spring up where its supposed to go propped up against the inner case. Let me see if I have any pics of the stopper lever installed when I get home tonight.

[gladiator mice]

actaully a quick glance at a repair manual solved my issue. the reverse lever finger is seated in the correct position and the coil spring is resting on the inner case where it should be. everything is back together and installed properly.