Doomsday Trike Project

[Social Torture]

The low range doesn't work in the doomsday trike. The high/low gear box in that parts trike works, or so I hear.

If I do buy that parts trike, I'll have to see which one has the best frame and build on that.

[ps2fixer]

If you don't get the parts bike, I have an engine I tore down. The shift shaft was rusted up pretty bad, but the gears and case/cover should be good.

[my1423]

The big red is already set up for minor water, not for submersion like a snorkel is used for.
More dunk and dry.

For the snorkel,
Abs 1 1/2 is cheap.
Need a tall mount and a pee trap u for the top. or 2 90
Seen some use a T on top with 90 on each end. The 90 they mount a plastic ball under. If it gets under water it seals that end and still pulls on the other.
Not sure where they get them. Shop vacs have the same setup to prevent water from flooding the motor.

Biggest issue is plumbing in the breather and sealing the air box.
Loads of silicone seem to be the most common.

They make barbed hose connectors that are for flat mounts. Drill a hole, insert, caulk, tighten the nut.
Same size as the breather line. Most mount them to the air box with a T.
Bottom of the T is a sealed line. This allows oil to collect.
Some get separators and mount those.
Suzuki quads had these.

Next issue is routing so it does not melt on the engine.
If you can not find a decent route, go with hot water pvc. Rated for 450 degrees. Little spendy, but you only need a foot where the head is.
It gets brittle in sunlight so high temp paint is needed.

For the steering head, have seen many solutions.
Removing the headlight, using a solid mount to the frame and allowing the forks to move naturally seems to be the most common.
Next flexible radiator hose in a big loop beside the forks with the snorkel fork mounted.
Last not so popular tail mounted snorkel. Not that great, in the way.

Try to put another pee trap under the air box where the snorkel attaches with a drain.
This way it is a low spot in the system and water will collect there and keep the air box dry.


Another issue is the pull start.
There is a weep hole on the bottom to let water out that can come into it through the rope hole.
Many plug this hole with a stopper to prevent it filling the whole starter with water.
This with a good handle with a rubber collar keeps the starter from flooding, but you must remember to pull the plug to drain the water after every ride and when stored to keep condensation out.
Others let it flood, this can be bad especially with muddy water.

Another overlooked spot is the cdi trigger coil cover,
The wires coming in and the weep hole.
Loads of high temp silicone will seal it up.
Weep keeps condensation out, but allows the unit to flood when submerged.

The gas cap, you need to ditch the one with the on off and find one with the hose vent.
This you can tie to the snorkel.

ALL the electrical connections need removed and pumped full of dielectric grease.
Then as an extra step srinkwrapped. This will keep moisture out and grease in.

The battery needs tied into the snorkel as well.
It needs fresh air to work properly, but tied in or else when it cools it will suck in water.
Needs a long hose and to get air somewhere on the snorkel, not the air box.
You do not want to get oil, gas, ect in the battery.
Some just use sealed batteries. Cost more, not serviceable. Prefer cheap lead acid myself.

Lights. Stock lights will fill with water and pop if submerged.
Some go to sealed beam lights. Led tails.
Others silicone the stock ones.

[Social Torture]

@my1423
- I was leaning toward building my own air box. I don't care much for his snorkel routing, but the air box design appears to be simple and effective.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65SymITwiPU
- To keep it simple I'll tie other vents directly into the air box, except the battery vent. I'll keep the battery vent separate from everything else.
- When it comes to sealing off the recoil starter, is that mainly to protect the electric starter? Since the electric starter doesn't work anyway, and I have no intention of fixing it, I'm in the process of eliminating the starter motor and sealing off the holes. I'll definitely take the advice to make a plug for the weep hole and get a good handle with a good boot on it.
- One question that I have for the waterproofing is regarding the exhaust. As long as the engine is running, this shouldn't be too much of a problem. I'd more concerned about what would happen if the engine stalled while submersed. Is there a way to utilize something like a check valve to seal off the exhaust pipe is the engine stalls?

@ps2fixer
- If I do not get that parts trike, you might hear from me. Even if I do, you might still hear from me. Send me a PM with a few more details. What else do you have? What do want for it? Where, in Michigan, are you located? I might be interested in the whole motor... or whatever is left of it.
The lever is broken off the shaft on my high/low range. It moves when I grab it with a pliers, but nothing engages. There's no grinding sounds coming from it when it's low range, so I think somebody took it apart and didn't put the low gear back in it for whatever reason.


I might end up starting a three wheeler orphanage after this is all said and done. I don't have a problem with that. Somebody has to keep those old death traps away from all the innocent children. LOL!

[my1423]

Electric start is badess in a deep mud hole!
Have you tried to use jumper cables directly on the starter?
Usually the solenoid fails and the starter is fine.
If the starter does not work rarely anything more then bad brushes.
They are also fairly well sealed with o rings.


For the vents make sure the breather either gets a T with a drop line or a separator.
If you don't you will get loads of oil all over the inside of the air box and it might even pool in there.

The video, his design is ok.
Looks restrictive to me.
The feed to the carb is way too small! Needs pipe that the inside diameter is bigger then the carb.
A mod to that would be to put the intakes to the air box far off center to get a swirl effect.
Heavy equipment does this, swirl the air around the filter to use centrifugal force to help separate dirt out.
Placement, If you use that style the battery box may need removed. Maybe even the tool box.
Or you could move the whole air cleaner assembly somewhere else and just plumb in the intake to it.
The top ends of the snorkels need an extra 90 and ball valves to face straight down. Prevents water mud from flinging in and sucking water when that side is at or below water.

Since this is a survival trike I would go with a foam filter myself. Can maintenance it anywhere and you do not need spray oil for it.

For the exhaust. Seems many neglect it.
Stock is pretty small and cheap. If you want more power now is the time to upgrade.
Otherwise,
Take it off, have it washed and sandblasted. Painted. They make an enamel header powder coat that is awesome stuff.
Sure a local car speed shop will have some leftover or maybe doing one and you can get a deal on it. Not cheap.
Seen guys wrap the headers in heat wrap. Helps with performance especially when submerged. Help keep it from cracking as well.
For a tip to prevent backflow flooding.
Check out the local boat shop for old bits.
Most boats and skis use some form of valve.
Wether flap or ball.
Just make sure its not plastic since most boats pump water through the exhaust.
This page shows some options and just how varied they are.
http://www.centekindustries.com/accessories.html

[Social Torture]

Thanks for the information, my1427.

Due to some financial setbacks, this project will have to wait for at least a month or two. In the meantime, I'm in the process of tearing the trike down to a rolling chassis. I got pretty far on that, tonight. I probably would have got the engine, but the mosquitoes were getting too thick. I'm hoping to get that done tomorrow. After that, I'm going to clean the grime off the frame, use some rust stopper, and get some paint on it. I'll have to make note of any bolts and such that are missing and replace as needed. I haven't found any welded-on parts... yet. I hope I don't any.