New member here from AZ with a few questions...

[Wldcat10]

How's it goin' everyone? I'm a newly registered member here, But I've lurked around here a few times in the past years when I had my 85 200x. Now I'm back with some questions on a 85 ATC 110.

My younger brother just bought a ATC 110 last week in pretty decent shape. Previous owner said he had no time to deal with it, so my brother picked it for a decent price. Its basically complete except for 2 things. #1. - Missing brake lever and #2. - Missing air cleaner connecting tube (rubber tube between carb and air box) #3. - Front tire is shot.

So the day my brother brought it home I went over to help him out a bit with it. We put in new spark plug, changed oil, cleaned carb, cleaned air filter and put some fresh gas in it. The bike has spark, we tried starting it up with pull start and it seems like it want to start, like its just on the brink of starting! We put a little carb starting fluid in it and it popped with a little flame like it was going to start. Carb is getting gas. We tried pull starting it as much as we could that night but we both got tired haha. We were gonna try to push start but front tire is bad.

So my question is... Is it not starting because its getting too much air being that the rubber connecting tube is missing? We tried starting it with choke open, half open and closed but no luck.

Any help or pointers on how to get this atc running will be greatly appreciated! I would love for my brother to get this bike up and running! Thanks!

[RIDE-RED 250r]

With a 12v battery and a timing light you can easily check and adjust ignition timing if needed once you get it to run... I would suggest doing that....

If you are 100% sure the carb is completely and thoroughly clean then I would be doing a compression test on it.

Did you drain all the old fuel out of the tank and check/clean the little filter in the fuel valve??

[Wldcat10]

If you are 100% sure the carb is completely and thoroughly clean then I would be doing a compression test on it.

Did you drain all the old fuel out of the tank and check/clean the little filter in the fuel valve??

Yes I cleaned the carb twice that day with some carb cleaner. The old fuel was drained out and fresh fuel was put in tank after.

We did not check/clean the filter in the fuel valve. How do I do that?

[RIDE-RED 250r]

OK, please don't take offense to what I am about to ask you, I am just trying to be 100% sure as to what you have done to this point so I can try to help you get your 110 running like a Honda should...

When you say you cleaned the carb with some carb cleaner... Did you remove the carb, fully disassemble it pulling out both jets and clean all components including the jets thoroughly? I only ask this because alot of folks' idea of cleaning a crab just entails spraying carb cleaner into the carb throat. If you have done a full disassembly, cleaning and verified the main jet, pilot jet (along with their corresponding fuel circuits in the carb body) and idle mixture circuit are clean and clear, we can eliminate the carb as a problem...

On to the fuel valve filter.... On a 110 carb, the fuel valve for switching from fuel on, reserve and off position is incorporated into the carb bowl. You can check this without removing the bowl from the carb. On the bottom of the fuel valve you will see a large hex cap plug. Simply remove the plug and it will (if it has not been removed) expose a small plastic screen fuel filter. It is retained by a compressed O-ring fit. Just gently and firmly pull it straight out of the valve housing. You will at this point be able to easily see if it is fouled up with junk...

If the fuel valve filter and carb are 100% up to snuff, I would run a compression test...

[fcf35]

If everything checks out and it still wont start then unbolt the exhaust from the head and give it a try.I mentioned this on another thread because I had one that I rebuilt the topend on and it had the same symptoms as what your describing.just unbolted it and see if it will run.if it does then pull the muffler and cut as small as a hole as you can in it and remove the packing out of it.there's a pretty good amount in there.I just use some extra long needle nose pliers and then if you have access to a welder just tack your piece back in.if not oh well most of those 110 muffleres have just about had it anyway.for me a 2"×2" hole works best.

[Wldcat10]

OK, please don't take offense to what I am about to ask you, I am just trying to be 100% sure as to what you have done to this point so I can try to help you get your 110 running like a Honda should...

When you say you cleaned the carb with some carb cleaner... Did you remove the carb, fully disassemble it pulling out both jets and clean all components including the jets thoroughly? I only ask this because alot of folks' idea of cleaning a crab just entails spraying carb cleaner into the carb throat. If you have done a full disassembly, cleaning and verified the main jet, pilot jet (along with their corresponding fuel circuits in the carb body) and idle mixture circuit are clean and clear, we can eliminate the carb as a problem...

On to the fuel valve filter.... On a 110 carb, the fuel valve for switching from fuel on, reserve and off position is incorporated into the carb bowl. You can check this without removing the bowl from the carb. On the bottom of the fuel valve you will see a large hex cap plug. Simply remove the plug and it will (if it has not been removed) expose a small plastic screen fuel filter. It is retained by a compressed O-ring fit. Just gently and firmly pull it straight out of the valve housing. You will at this point be able to easily see if it is fouled up with junk...

If the fuel valve filter and carb are 100% up to snuff, I would run a compression test...

No offense taken! We did remove the carb from the atc and opened it up and cleaned it. the inside looked good, float and all. I did not remove the main jet & jet pilot itslef. We just removed the carb opened it up and let it soak in some carb cleaner. After we had cleaned it and installed back onto the bike, the carb wasn't getting any gas. So we removed the fuel valve (didn't know that was the fuel valve until you told me in last post) and checked it. It was plugged up by something and wasn't letting fuel thru, so we cleaned it and cleared out the blockage it had and put it back on.

After that we had tried starting it, it was now getting gas into carb after fuel valve cleaning. It would pop like it wanted to start but no luck.

We did not remove the hex cap plug to check filter, I'll have to check that out when I go to see my brother.

I was thinking its not starting was because it was missing the rubber connecting hose between carb & airbox and it getting too much air? Is there something I could use instead of the factory rubber hose, maybe PVC?

[Wldcat10]

If everything checks out and it still wont start then unbolt the exhaust from the head and give it a try.I mentioned this on another thread because I had one that I rebuilt the topend on and it had the same symptoms as what your describing.just unbolted it and see if it will run.if it does then pull the muffler and cut as small as a hole as you can in it and remove the packing out of it.there's a pretty good amount in there.I just use some extra long needle nose pliers and then if you have access to a welder just tack your piece back in.if not oh well most of those 110 muffleres have just about had it anyway.for me a 2"×2" hole works best.

I'll have to try that if it comes down to it. thx

[RIDE-RED 250r]

No offense taken! We did remove the carb from the atc and opened it up and cleaned it. the inside looked good, float and all. I did not remove the main jet & jet pilot itslef. We just removed the carb opened it up and let it soak in some carb cleaner. After we had cleaned it and installed back onto the bike, the carb wasn't getting any gas. So we removed the fuel valve (didn't know that was the fuel valve until you told me in last post) and checked it. It was plugged up by something and wasn't letting fuel thru, so we cleaned it and cleared out the blockage it had and put it back on.

After that we had tried starting it, it was now getting gas into carb after fuel valve cleaning. It would pop like it wanted to start but no luck.

We did not remove the hex cap plug to check filter, I'll have to check that out when I go to see my brother.

I was thinking its not starting was because it was missing the rubber connecting hose between carb & airbox and it getting too much air? Is there something I could use instead of the factory rubber hose, maybe PVC?

OK, since you didn't remove both the main jet and pilot jet for inspection and cleaning, those could still be the root of your problem, particularly the pilot jet. The pilot jet plays a major role in how the engine runs at low speed. A partially or fully clogged pilot jet with give you fits galore when trying to get your engine started and running....

As to the airbox pipe.. Not being connected to the airbox shouldn't make it impossible to start the engine. Yes, it will run a bit leaner, but it should still run and at most it may run best with the choke on halfway. I still believe your issue is caused by something other than the fact your carb isn't connected to the airbox.

But as a means of double checking, a little creativity with some old shop vac hose, zip-ties, and duct tape should get you connected to the airbox as a means of testing. I wouldn't use that method as a permanent fix though.

[Wldcat10]

OK, since you didn't remove both the main jet and pilot jet for inspection and cleaning, those could still be the root of your problem, particularly the pilot jet. The pilot jet plays a major role in how the engine runs at low speed. A partially or fully clogged pilot jet with give you fits galore when trying to get your engine started and running....

As to the airbox pipe.. Not being connected to the airbox shouldn't make it impossible to start the engine. Yes, it will run a bit leaner, but it should still run and at most it may run best with the choke on halfway. I still believe your issue is caused by something other than the fact your carb isn't connected to the airbox.

But as a means of double checking, a little creativity with some old shop vac hose, zip-ties, and duct tape should get you connected to the airbox as a means of testing. I wouldn't use that method as a permanent fix though.

Thanks for the pointers! So how do I go about cleaning the main jet and pilot jet?

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Well, you were very close when you had the bowl off the carb before.

Simply remove the bowl. Now flip the carb upside down and you will notice a sort of tower protruding upward as the carb sits upside down. At the very top of the tower, you will see a sort of brass fitting. The main jet is screwed into this tower and is removed with a common screwdriver. Remove the jet and look through it. If there is anything whatsoever in the fuel passgae through the jet it needs to be cleaned with compressed air.

The pilot jet will be found in a secondary casting on the side of the main jet tower. It is usually recessed and not as readily visible as the main. On the side of the main jet tower casting, look for a small hole. Inside that hole you will see another brass fitting with a common screwdriver slitted head. This is the pilot jet. Using the appropriately sized screwdriver, remove the pilot jet and inspect it as you did the main jet. This is key, just like the main jet, the pilot jet has a fuel passage running it's full length. But it is MUCH smaller than the main jet. Hold it up to a light source and check to see if it is partially or fully obstructed. If you cannot see clearly through the tiny hole against a light source it will need to be addressed with compressed air. In some cases a jet can be clogged with stubborn enough deposits typical cleaning methods won't cure it. Sometimes you just need to replace the jet with a new one. If you attempt to use a small drill or other solid probing object in a jet (particularly a pilot jet as the hole is so tiny) you can inadvertently enlarge or damage the fuel passage. Any change in size or shape of that fuel passage will alter your fuel mixture.

While you have both jets out, inspect and blow compressed air into the fuel circuits you removed the jets from to ensure no blockages in the carb body fuel passages. On the main jet, you can actually remove the main jet tube and make sure the emulsion holes are clean and clear. This is removed usually with a 6mm socket or small adjustable wrench.

I will be going out to re-jet my son's '85 ATC110 here in a little bit. I will take some pics and post them up for you to help you identify what I'm talking about. It sounds like a daunting task, but I assure you, it's not nearly as difficult as it may sound.....

[Wldcat10]

Well, you were very close when you had the bowl off the carb before.

Simply remove the bowl. Now flip the carb upside down and you will notice a sort of tower protruding upward as the carb sits upside down. At the very top of the tower, you will see a sort of brass fitting. The main jet is screwed into this tower and is removed with a common screwdriver. Remove the jet and look through it. If there is anything whatsoever in the fuel passgae through the jet it needs to be cleaned with compressed air.

The pilot jet will be found in a secondary casting on the side of the main jet tower. It is usually recessed and not as readily visible as the main. On the side of the main jet tower casting, look for a small hole. Inside that hole you will see another brass fitting with a common screwdriver slitted head. This is the pilot jet. Using the appropriately sized screwdriver, remove the pilot jet and inspect it as you did the main jet. This is key, just like the main jet, the pilot jet has a fuel passage running it's full length. But it is MUCH smaller than the main jet. Hold it up to a light source and check to see if it is partially or fully obstructed. If you cannot see clearly through the tiny hole against a light source it will need to be addressed with compressed air. In some cases a jet can be clogged with stubborn enough deposits typical cleaning methods won't cure it. Sometimes you just need to replace the jet with a new one. If you attempt to use a small drill or other solid probing object in a jet (particularly a pilot jet as the hole is so tiny) you can inadvertently enlarge or damage the fuel passage. Any change in size or shape of that fuel passage will alter your fuel mixture.

While you have both jets out, inspect and blow compressed air into the fuel circuits you removed the jets from to ensure no blockages in the carb body fuel passages. On the main jet, you can actually remove the main jet tube and make sure the emulsion holes are clean and clear. This is removed usually with a 6mm socket or small adjustable wrench.

I will be going out to re-jet my son's '85 ATC110 here in a little bit. I will take some pics and post them up for you to help you identify what I'm talking about. It sounds like a daunting task, but I assure you, it's not nearly as difficult as it may sound.....

Thanks for the help/advice! I greatly appreciate it! I would love to see pics of the process, thanks again!

[RIDE-RED 250r]

OK, I have some pics to help you out...

In pic #1, the pilot jet is on the left and the main on the right. Notice the main protrudes higher.

In pic #2, the pilot is on top and the main on the bottom.

Pic #3 shows the main jet on the left and the pilot jet on the right.

Pics 4, 5 and 6 show how to access the fuel filter in the valve. Pic 4 shows the hex plug you need to remove, pic 5 shows the filter as you will find it once you remove the plug and of course pic 6 shows the filter....

[SiiCHo]

Sounds like the pilot jet to me too. My 84 250r had a similar issue when i bought it. It had been sitting for a year and a half, we started it before i bought it, but we had to drag it behind a quad. When i got it home, i tore the carb apart and found the pilot jet completely gummed up. For future reference, when you first turn over a motor that hasnt run in a long time, the best thing to do is spray a tiny amount of wd40 in the spark plug hole to lubricate the piston against the cylinder wall, just a friendly tip...

[KASEY]

OR YOU COULD STOP BY MY HOUSE ,,,, I WILL GET IT RUNNING!!!! I love a challenge!!

[Wldcat10]

OK, I have some pics to help you out...

In pic #1, the pilot jet is on the left and the main on the right. Notice the main protrudes higher.

In pic #2, the pilot is on top and the main on the bottom.

Pic #3 shows the main jet on the left and the pilot jet on the right.

Pics 4, 5 and 6 show how to access the fuel filter in the valve. Pic 4 shows the hex plug you need to remove, pic 5 shows the filter as you will find it once you remove the plug and of course pic 6 shows the filter....

Wow! Thanks for the pics! I'll be goin over to check out the bike tomorrow morning. Hopefully we can get it running! Thanks for the help and pics you posted!