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Thread: tri-z thermostat/bypass

  1. #1
    Rigaman is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    tri-z thermostat/bypass

    I was wondering.. I was thinking of putting a thermostat bypass on my tri-z. I know its not good for cold winters, but for riding in the summer I think it might help keep my motor cool. i weigh alot, and my motor gets pretty hot at times.

    So I was thinking.... Cant I just take the thermostat valve out of the thermostat? That is pretty much putting a bypass on. Has anyone done this? Is there such thing as too much flow? I dont want to screw up my motor by running it too cool, so I would make sure it warmed up before riding.

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  2. #2
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    Yep, you wont hurt a thing ditching the thermostat. Just take the valve out, and seal it back up. Ronnie made t-stat eliminators, hard to get your hands on anymore.
    My feedback: http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-ATC-Eric

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  3. #3
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    There are some brand new in the 3WW Shop:

    http://shop.3wheelerworld.com/produc...?productid=168

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rigaman View Post
    Is there such thing as too much flow?
    There actually is, but you don't have to worry about it on your trike unless you can figure out how to triple the flow rate of your water pump. BTW, don't expect your engine to run a bunch cooler from this mod, it may help a bit, but going down 1 tooth down on the front sprocket to help pull your weight around might help lower the temp more than removing the thermostat will. Is it an 85? I think the 86 used less restrictive rad fin protectors, maybe look into that too.

  5. #5
    Larry T Moore is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    when we used build race cars at my cousins shop we used to mess around with flatheads..they like to run hot so we would ditch the t-stats and put washers in their place...we would make the holes a little bigger but you still had a little restriction and good flow...so heres ya an idea to play with

  6. #6
    Rigaman is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Ya. I already geared it for more torque. I will figure out the best set up. I will try a few things. I have a y fitting off a ktm I was gonna use, but I would have to make new hoses for it. I'll see how it runs without the t stat. And with it. Thengo from there.

  7. #7
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    pcs is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    i run mine with the t stat remove,in theory it helps but havent really noticed the motor running different, im also running a cool head. if you think your motor is running hot you can also play with your coolant ratio for the summer and run more water than anti freeze. i run about 25% anti freeze and the rest water on my tri z but it rarely every freezes where i live.
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  8. #8
    Rigaman is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Oh really? More water will keep it cooler?

    Whats the best coolant to use? I hear all sorts of different things about which coolant works better, but I never really paid attention. My build is coming along great, and I cant wait to show it to you guys. Might not be a top tier build... but it is to me. I did everything myself. Motor, blasting, painting, sanding.. Everything. Except a couple powdercoated parts.

  9. #9
    Rigaman is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I got another question.

    My piston Im putting in my z is a old stock wiseco from the mid 80s. Period piston. haha. But... I noticed the newer wiseco pistons have subtle differences. Mainly there are 2 holes drilled under the wristpin on each side, with a milled channel around the pin for lubrication. Is that something that will really make a difference in the longevity of my top end?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rigaman View Post
    Oh really? More water will keep it cooler?

    Whats the best coolant to use? I hear all sorts of different things about which coolant works better, but I never really paid attention. My build is coming along great, and I cant wait to show it to you guys. Might not be a top tier build... but it is to me. I did everything myself. Motor, blasting, painting, sanding.. Everything. Except a couple powdercoated parts.
    Here, try this stuff and let us know if you get a 10% increase in mileage If you do Im guessing its because your wallet dropped weight! Still this may just cool better.

    http://evanscooling.com/

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rigaman View Post
    I got another question.

    My piston Im putting in my z is a old stock wiseco from the mid 80s. Period piston. haha. But... I noticed the newer wiseco pistons have subtle differences. Mainly there are 2 holes drilled under the wristpin on each side, with a milled channel around the pin for lubrication. Is that something that will really make a difference in the longevity of my top end?
    Recommend you don't start modifying your piston. The new design may be an upgrade, but you don't know what else was changed that you can't see, you could end up weakening a CTF area. Use good oil and it will be fine.

  12. #12
    Rigaman is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Oh I won't modify it. Just wondering if it made a big difference.

    On my 89 cr250 I had to drill a hole in the piston to lube the exhaust bridge.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rigaman View Post
    Oh I won't modify it. Just wondering if it made a big difference.

    On my 89 cr250 I had to drill a hole in the piston to lube the exhaust bridge.
    A hole aimed at the bridges is typical (my bike has two) and the stress in that area is nil, but around the wrist pin is where most cracks I've seen develop, so i'd stay clear of it. I'm sure your old slug will last just fine.

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