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Thread: 1982 ATC 185s Rebuild - I need your opinions and expertise!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Saint John, KS
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    1982 ATC 185s Rebuild - I need your opinions and expertise!

    Ok. So if you have been reading my introduction post you will notice I have started to fix up my new purchase. One of the parts to this is doing something with the motor. I have read some about putting 200s cylinder and piston on it. Does this really make a big difference in performance?

    I have found a website that I can send off my cylinder and head for machine work and they send it back with all parts needed. How much can the 185s be bored? Can it be bored to a 200s? I don't remember the bore for the two right now.

    I'm thinking about just running a compression test and see what I get. That will tell me a lot. What else should I check? ie valve clearance to find out about head

    I hope rings and gaskets are all that is needed, but I am ok with rebuild.

    What about clutch? I've never messed with one like this. I'm finding all kinds of parts to buy, but am I wasting money.
    Last edited by nlauffer; 06-18-2013 at 07:22 PM. Reason: This post has changed from just about the engine to the whole trike rebuild.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Farwell MN
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    The 185 has a bore width of 63 mm, the 200 has a bore width of 65mm. I THINK you could bore it out to 65mm, and buy a std 200 piston, or you could bu a 2mm oversized 185cc piston, Wiseco makes a 2mm oversize. Its not really worth it though. Your performance gain would be little, and more trouble than its worth. If you have low compression, I would take it to an engine machine shop, have them mic it, and they will tell you the bore size, and how much it needs to be bored bigger, (1 over, 2 over, etc.) then have them bore and hone it, get an oversized piston and rings matching the overbore, new gaskets and you should have a good running trike for pretty cheap.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    MN
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    3,263
    By website i assume your referring to G&H Discount ATV as i know they are one of the biggest that do this.

    Your not going to gain a whole in my opinion by punching it out to the same bore as a 200, but its possible and i have seen it done. I would just have them clean it up and bore it for an oversize piston and leave it at that.
    ---------------------------------------------------------
    1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
    1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
    1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....

  4. #4
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    Jun 2013
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    Saint John, KS
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    That's the website. I don't think I will worry too much about actual size bored. I'm pretty sure just a nice freshening up will make a big difference. I haven't ran a compression test, yet. I'm still working on bearing and sprockets.

  5. #5
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Hello



    Check at least valve guide clearance, cam lobe height and ramps forr grooves, rocker arms for grooves. get new valve guide seals.


    PISTON/RING REPLACEMENT – You must measure the cylinder for taper and “out of round”. They can look fine but be out of spec. It should be less than .015 taper and out of round or rings will not properly seal and it will have low compression and burn oil. The cylinder should be honed and new rings installed or the will not seal properly and it will have low compression and burn oil.


    Quote Originally Posted by Howdy View Post
    Keep it clean and on topic!!Howdy

  6. #6
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    Why didn't anyone stop me?!?
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Saint John, KS
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    The motor is on the bench. The rear axle is disassembled and waiting on parts. Should be here no later than the 18th.

    I also started painting the frame and prepping all the small parts for paint. I'm thinking about buying a small parts washer but might just soak.
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Saint John, KS
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    I got my rear bearings, front & rear shoes, front & rear sprocket, and chain. I ordered rear seals (I forgot), front bearings & seals, brake shoe springs, misc orings and dust seals, and brake cables.

    I ordered a 12 tooth front sprocket by mistake. What's that gonna do?

    Also, my rear brake drum is a rusty mess. It's complete rust. What is a good way to clean it up? It's bad enough I'm thinking about sandblasting it. If I can't get it clean, are replacements available? I haven't found any yet.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Eh it happens, one thing leads to another and its a snowball effect case of "you might as well".... LOL

    It will be nice when your done so don't worry and press on! I know how it goes, i adopted a ATC90 and i have spent three days now just working on the rear fenders while waiting for parts to even start on the motor!

    The sprocket difference will change your gear ratio some, not a huge difference though, the stocker is an 11 tooth, so you only went a smidge larger. You will gain a bit more top end speed but not like a huge difference in my opinion after having played around with the ratios on these trikes. You need to make a drastic change, making the front bigger and the rear smaller for more speed, a bigger sprocket in the front and a smaller one in the back will give you more top speed with less engine rpm, a smaller sprocket in the front and a bigger one in the back will give you less top speed but higher engine rpm.

    For your rear drum if you have someone locally that can do a bead blast on it go for it. I had one that was bad on a 200, i had a local place bead blast it then i took it to a local auto shop that still has the machines to turn down brake drums and rotors, believe it or not this is a dying service as most just replace the drums and rotors with a brake job rather then turn them down like they did in the old days, they turned it down just a bit to give a good braking surface and it worked great!

    I don't believe anyone is making a replacement for them, at least not that i can find either.
    ---------------------------------------------------------
    1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
    1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
    1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Georgia
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    For rust in the tank I used Cider Vinegar, ate the rust out very well, just be sure to rinse with baking soda water then gas.
    I did have to do some patch work on the tank but it was already in rough shape.

    If you can't find a place to bead blast and turn the brake you might want to try this.

    Simply soak it 4-8hrs shake it around, wire brush lightly and soak overnight, when you are ready to remove make sure you have a high temp paint ready, dry it and clean off rust residue, then paint.
    This process worked great for me on several parts (though I didn't need high temp for the parts I was doing).

  11. #11
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Hello nlauffer



    Quote Originally Posted by nlauffer View Post
    I ordered a 12 tooth front sprocket by mistake. What's that gonna do?

    It depends what size your front one was. If the 12 is smaller, it will do the following items listed below, if the 12 is larger it will do the opposite of the items listed below.


    Reduce max speed and

    “Shorten” the gears. In other words, you will be shifting at lower speeds in each gear then you were before.

    Pull things easier

    Climb hills easier.

    Have more engine breaking

    Slow more quickly when closing the throttle completely while moving.

    Accelerate to max speed more quickly.

  12. #12
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Post correction


    The word “breaking” should be “braking”

    I have no edit button, lol.


    Quote Originally Posted by Howdy View Post
    Keep it clean and on topic!!
    Howdy

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Saint John, KS
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    Amazon3d - I used white vinegar on my tank and some small parts and it worked awesome. My tank was already clean for the most part, but the little piece just outside the rear sprocket was nasty. It took it down to almost bare metal. I was thinking about soaking the drum in vinegar first just to see if it will work. At less than $1 for vinegar its worth a shot. Is the baking soda water just to neutralize the vinegar?

    kb0nly - You think it won't make a noticeable difference?!? I'll just use it then. I used to work at a Napa and was the only one that would turn drums and rotors. I'm not sure if this little drum would fit on the machine I used to use, though. A buddy of mine and one of my firefighters has a shop and he uses an "on the vehicle" type machine. If vinegar doesn't do it, I'll try him.

    barnett468 - Stock sprocket was an 11 tooth and I have a 12 tooth. All the things you mentioned about going smaller are what I would want on this wheeler. I think. I haven't had a chance to ride it, except around the yard in first and finally second, once I got a shifter. Most of my riding will putting around my in- laws farm. If one tooth won't be noticeable I'll just keep it. I have been looking at some pull behind equipment, though. This is my first 3 wheeler or ATV of any for that matter, so I don't know if it is capable of being much of a workhorse.

  14. #14
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    Jun 2013
    Location
    Georgia
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    Quote Originally Posted by nlauffer View Post
    Amazon3d - I used white vinegar on my tank and some small parts and it worked awesome. My tank was already clean for the most part, but the little piece just outside the rear sprocket was nasty. It took it down to almost bare metal. I was thinking about soaking the drum in vinegar first just to see if it will work. At less than $1 for vinegar its worth a shot. Is the baking soda water just to neutralize the vinegar?
    Cider Vinegar works much better, I tried both. The baking soda is to neutralize the Vinegar yes, gas is to clean both out.

  15. #15
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    Jun 2013
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    Saint John, KS
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    I wasn't able to upload these from my phone, so here goes another try from my computer.

    One is the other parts I bought and the other shows the frame starting to be painted. I still haven't decided if I want to take the front forks off. I don't think I will. I'll just tape everything to keep overspray off.

    Is there another option for steering stem bearings. I saw some regular roller type bearings listed online somewhere, but am not sure where now. I figure, if they were available, someone would have done it already. Just seems like a huge pain to take apart and put back together having to worry about 40 some little ball bearings.
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