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Thread: 85 YTM225 DRN headlight issues.

  1. #1
    fabiodriven's Avatar
    fabiodriven is offline Aspiring romance novel cover model, and the Official 3WW slayer of thieves and swindlers. Catch me if you can
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    85 YTM225 DRN headlight issues.

    Just a couple of days until Trikefest, I'd really like to bring the DR as opposed to the SX, but I absolutely need a headlight.

    When I first got the machine going, the taillight worked but no headlight. I ordered a new bulb just for sh!ts and giggles in an order I was making anyways in hope that might be the issue. It wasn't. Brought the trike home today to do the finishing touches and get her ready to go for Saturday when we pull out. Welp, I hadn't touched one thing yet and the taillight no longer has voltage either, so I'm actually worse off then when I started. I've been pulling random connections apart and checking for voltage, which is pretty much guesswork because I don't even know what wires go to what. The harness on this thing is huge. I took the switch apart, no voltage at the switch as far as I can tell. There is one fuse for something, I don't know what, but it is intact and looks fine. No obvious loose or bad connections.

    Suggestions please?
    85 Tri-Zinger 60
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  2. #2
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    Take the Honda...lol...Not sure if Oscar Meyer or someone else here has a better manual..But here is a link found for a service manual...http://www.gobookee.net/yamaha-yfm-225-service-manual/

    Start at your battery and chase that current to see where you're losing it. Key switch and everything else are working properly? I would guess fuse/box,but you have that covered.. It will be a simple fix when you find it,,but till then... pia Monroe Mike where ya at ? If this doesn't work fabio,post back and I will find one of my DR manuals and TRY to scan the electrical page up here. I have never scanned before ,but how hard could it be !
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  3. #3
    Join Date
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    The way those ytms are wired The key and battery has nothing to do with the lights (they run directly off the motor.). you can run the bike with the key switch removed its just a second kill switch in the off position and it powers the starter circuit and indicator lights in the on position. The head and tail light circuits are just like what you find on a bike that didn't have a electric starter. Removing the key switch makes it run like it would if it had no battery in it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Lighting coil within the stator could be the worst case. They typically do not go bad that often, but I can't think of anything else but possibly a loose connection/ fuse / or bad switch. Keep going after the simple stuff first.

  5. #5
    fabiodriven's Avatar
    fabiodriven is offline Aspiring romance novel cover model, and the Official 3WW slayer of thieves and swindlers. Catch me if you can
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    I'm not even going to begin to explain how odd this problem has been, and I've gotten quite familiar with 12v vehicle electric systems over the last few years. One thing I've learned is that I will never cease to be totally astonished at the crazy things electrical problems can cause with the most bizarre of symptoms.

    One big problem I had was that for the first 2 hours I wasn't aware that the 225DR's lights only work with the bike running, not off the battery. So chalk that up to experience. Even after I figured that out, the bike's wiring and the wiring in the headlight itself were doing some extremely odd things. Nothing metered out right or worked right aside from the taillight, which worked with the bike running and went on and off with the switch. When I put the headlight wires directly on the battery terminals, it didn't work right with any combination of wires in any configuration. There was one way I had it hooked up when both filaments in the bulb came on at the same time, but the ground wasn't even hooked up from the light socket. Bulb was installed correctly btw...

    So I figured since the taillight worked I would scab a wire right from the power at the taillight and run it to the headlight. I unplugged the taillight to test the wires and see which was the hot. Welp, neither were hot. I couldn't show power at either wire, yet when I plugged the light in it worked. I tried it over and over about 6 times and double checked that the meter wasn't messed up. I also alternated between the negative and positive probes on the meter. I couldn't show voltage any way but the bulb lit when plugged in and turned on and off with the bar switch. Someone please explain to me how this is possible.

    So I ended up making my own head/taillight setup with my own wire and a toggle switch right off the battery. Problem solved.
    85 Tri-Zinger 60
    85 ATC250SX
    86 ATC250SX
    87 ATC250SX
    02 XR650L conversion
    84 ATC 480R

  6. #6
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    Well at least now you don't have to have the bike running to test the lights.

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