1982 Honda ATC 185s Rebuild

[Amazon3d]

Hello again everyone.
I have a few questions as I am rebuilding this bike.
I have almost the entire frame apart (engine will wait till I have parts).
I took apart the front forks and the bearings are just loose, the cage was gone, just the balls remained.

Where can I get the replacement bearings and what type are they called?

Starting Break down:


Frame Stripped


Rear Plastic / Seat


Front Forks


Handle Bars and Wiring Harness (re-wrapped and leads put on)


Brake (missing Spring) had to get some Quicksteel to repair after I bent it back.


Engine before/after re-wrapping wiring and putting leads on


Work Bench lined up


Tank photos after painting




Front wheel with Brake Hub removed


Front Brake hub (half of it is missing)

[shortline10]

Go to dratv.com and have fun
http://www.dratv.com/atdrwhandti.html

Hello again everyone.
I have a few questions as I am rebuilding this bike.
I have almost the entire frame apart (engine will wait till I have parts).
I took apart the front forks and the bearings are just loose, the cage was gone, just the balls remained.

Where can I get the replacement bearings and what type are they called?

(Will post pictures tomorrow)

[kb0nly]

Are you referring to the steering stem bearings? Thats how Honda's are, they have a race and loose ball bearings that ride in that race, there is no cage holding the bearings they are simply pinched in place as the steering stem is tightened.

As for replacing them if they are sloppy and loose the best way is an All Balls roller bearing kit to replace them. The only hard part is removing the lower bearing race from the bottom of the fork stem.

Here is an example...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ATC-70...5d7e7d&vxp=mtr

[Amazon3d]

By removing the lower race is that the cup that holds the balls? Do I have to knock it out and just use that kit?

[shortline10]

If your talking about the steering stem bearings their is no cage that holds them . When installing them use a thick grease on the race and place the bearings on the race carefully and the grease will hold them in place during installation .

By removing the lower race is that the cup that holds the balls? Do I have to knock it out and just use that kit?

[Amazon3d]

Thanks Shortline, I've just never seen loose bearings in a steering stem like that before, they've always had a cage that held them in, unless the cage was broke.
Posting pictures of progress now!

[kb0nly]

By removing the lower race is that the cup that holds the balls? Do I have to knock it out and just use that kit?

Yes, you have to remove the lower race up in the downtube but also the race that is on the stem on the forks, most guys cut it with a cut off wheel or grinder being careful not to nick up the stem because its pressed down on the stem and you can't just pry it back off.

[Amazon3d]

Is a 81' 200s exhaust compatible with 82' 185s?

Cleaned up the engine a good bit, also got a lot of rust off parts, have to coat them now.
Picked up some heavy duty grease to do the steering stem bearings with.
I'll snap some more photos later today.

[shortline10]

No such animal as a 81 200s LOL 200s came out in 84 . It should work but mounting tabs might be different .

[Amazon3d]

Well guess that they have it labeled wrong, looks like a 185s exhaust though.

More photos!

Mounting hardware came in from Lake-shore ATV Salvage, they look almost mint and for $20 shipped too!


Engine de-greased and Primed.



Started on repainting frame after de-greasing the frame (quite the job)


Painted CDI cover


Painted Shifter (Yes red, wanted to accent the engine which will be black)

[Amazon3d]

On to new questions: Should I rebuild the top end; I checked inside the exhaust while I had it hanging and found large deposits of carbon, some I cracked off as large as 1/3-1/2" long. I cleaned it out the best I could with my pick but it still looks pretty carbon coated. I've never tore down a top end before.

Also my oil cap has a crack in the lip (chip too) and after 1/4-1/2 turn it will slowly drip oil (very slowly), should I replace this or is it fine for now?

[kb0nly]

Pretty common for them to carbon up, was the motor smoking (burning oil) at all? If not then i wouldnt tear into it, just clean out the exhaust port on the head.

I would replace that oil cap, you mean the dipstick or? A small leak will become a big leak eventually. And you don't want oil leaking all over your freshly painted engine and frame. Speaking of paint, be careful on the spark advancer i see you painted over it and the pickup, if you get paint buildup on the magnet end of the advancer it will hit the pickup coil, small gap between them.

[Amazon3d]

I honestly don't know if the engine smoked or not. I haven't had it running yet.

The dipstick is missing, but the cap at the bottom with the oil screen has the crack, 22mm nut size I think (have to pick up a few sockets).

Also would this LINK carburetor be worth getting? I don't want to buy a $300 racing carb for a 185 because I may end up selling and upgrading to a larger trike.

Any thoughts on my mounting rig lol

[shortline10]

24mm is the oil drain plug size . For now you can use a valve tappet cover , its the same size and wont leak unless the motor is running .

[Amazon3d]

It will leak if the motor is running? I thought they were the exact same? It doesn't leak if its tightened.

Also I won the bid on my exhaust, $0.99 + $24.25 shipping = Happy Camper Pic below.