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Thread: 1982 Honda ATC 185s Rebuild

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    MN
    --
    3,263
    I think he meant if you took a valve cover off and used it for the oil drain you would be ok until you want to run it due to missing cover.

    If you can't find one let me know I have at least one of those in my spares box I can sell. There is a few on eBay also I am sure. Sounds like you need a dipstick to lol.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    MN
    --
    3,263
    Quote Originally Posted by Amazon3d:1233799
    I honestly don't know if the engine smoked or not. I haven't had it running yet.

    The dipstick is missing, but the cap at the bottom with the oil screen has the crack, 22mm nut size I think (have to pick up a few sockets).

    Also would this LINK carburetor be worth getting? I don't want to buy a $300 racing carb for a 185 because I may end up selling and upgrading to a larger trike.

    Any thoughts on my mounting rig lol
    Nothing wrong with that carb I have used many of the cheap eBay replacements. Just pop off the bowl and make sure its clean first. I had a couple that had grit in them, thinking casting sand.

    Apologies for multiple posts in a row couldn't figure out how to multiquote using phone app.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Georgia
    --
    53
    Thanks for the input on the carb, was waiting for a reply before buying.
    Yes I need a dipstick also, I know plenty of them but none of them want to be screwed into my engine lol.
    Thoughts on the exhaust? Good deal?

    How much for one of those caps KB?

    You happen to have a spare carb insulator around? - Just bought one with bolts. $19.99
    Ordered Drive Chain, Air Filter, new Front Axle with break hub, Carb, Exhaust, and Insulator.

    Still need: Dipstick, Chain Guard, Front Brake Cable, Front Brake Lever, and Break Pedal Spring.

    Total Invested: $80 Frame/Engine, $168.60 Parts.
    Last edited by Amazon3d; 06-16-2013 at 08:56 PM.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Georgia
    --
    53
    So a paint question for anyone who has painted their bike/engine/exhaust before, should I use high temperature paint for the engine, exhaust I know I should, but is it necessary on the engine?
    I have several cans of regular gloss black from Wally world and a can of high temp for the exhaust (considered trying to find high temp red paint).

  5. #20
    Larry T Moore is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Indiana
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    358
    high temp paint usually wont work on the exhaust....either powdercoat it or go with BBQ grill paint...it'll be flatblack but it looks nice

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Georgia
    --
    53
    The high temperature paint is for grills (1500 degrees).

    What about the engine itself?

  7. #22
    Larry T Moore is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Indiana
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    358
    ok...its what I used on my pipe...as far as the engine I went with engine paint from Advance...

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Saint John, KS
    --
    37
    I painted a 76 Kawasaki KZ750 exhaust header with the high temp 1500 degree flat black paint. I did not follow the directions exactly and the surface was not as clean as it should have been. The only spot that started to disappear was right out of the head as the pipes turned down.

    The ATC 185s head pipe is definitely small enough to bake in an oven, which is one of the suggestions.

    I am going to use Duplicolor engine paint from my local Napa in an aluminum or grey color for my engine. It is 500 degree I believe.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Saint John, KS
    --
    37
    I also bought an ebay carb for about $25. I took it apart and it was clean. I had to change the choke lever over from my old one, as the new one was a spring loaded for cable operation. Very easy to do, just one screw. I have not ran the carburetor yet. The other thing is I think the attachment is different for the throttle cable, but I can't remember for sure. It might not have been, just seems like the slide looks different.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    MN
    --
    3,263
    I will dig through my spares here and see what i have for caps, i know i should have one good condition one, just have to find which bucket or box its in! I don't think i have a carb insulator but i will look for that too.

    I agree on the exhaust, i have painted many of them with cheap bbq paint! The nice thing is if it starts to burn off over time you just hit it with a wire brush and recoat it, it does last a long time though. One exhaust i painted with that stuff has held up for three years worth of use now and its just starting to show rust at the bend to the head.

    I should have some time to dig around through my spare parts later today and i will let you know. You might want to search ebay a bit also just in case i can't find one, they usually show up for $5-10 depending on condition.
    ---------------------------------------------------------
    1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
    1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
    1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    STL
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    3,560
    wow man this is coming together QUICK! nice work, and awesome bargain shopping too man! keep it up, interested in seeing the finished product. At first i thought a red motor wouldnt look good and then i thought about the 1st gen air foolers and ya that would actually look pretty cool potentially! in for updates!
    TrikeFest 07,08,09,10,11,12,13,14 SandPuppie's Ride 07,08,09 Imperial Invasion 09, 13

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Georgia
    --
    53
    What is the electrical out put of the 1982 185s?
    I am trying to figure out what kind of headlight and tail light power I have at my disposal.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Saint John, KS
    --
    37
    It should be 50w at 5000 rpm. The headlight is 45w and taillight is 5w taking up all the power output. This is according to the manual. They made a DC power kit as an option but I don't know why or what it really did except add a battery.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Saint John, KS
    --
    37
    Just found it

    For brighter headlight when the engine is at idle and for accessories.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Georgia
    --
    53
    So I have 4 Amps to work with.... Damn. A 500w halogen headlight would be nice lol.
    Will probably look into LED though 3.5amps for a LED headlight isn't super high. Considering doing some custom work and changing the tail light to a tail/brake.

    The Frame will be Black, the Forks are getting new coat of Red, the Engine will be Black, The Shifter will be Red.

    I have the engine almost finished, debating on 3-4th coat of black or just clear coating now.
    The forks have been cleaned and primed (1 coat). The shifter is done. The Brake Bell is done, One of the wheels I have to get a small pair of vice grips to get 2 nuts off as they are stripped/rusted.

    Now for a surprise issue. The front Hub/wheel. I got my new axle in with brake hub and it is for a 3 bolt rim, my existing rim/axle is a 4 bolt. Which one is correct? Both are seen in the 82' service manual which is weird.


    More updates this afternoon.
    Last edited by Amazon3d; 06-21-2013 at 03:53 PM.

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