My 1982 200E Big Red

[barnett468]

I think you saw one post then the other, lol

If it's chinese they might have forgotten it, lol

[barnett468]

It's also possible if it's chinese that it simply isn't closing the butterfly enough because it is out of adjustment somehow. If it has a hole or spring loaded door in it, it should probably fully closed if not it should only close little more than 3/4.

[SUPERTEX]

LOL i dont know if they have forgotten anything and i did see one post then the other, i guess i could crack the brand new carb open and take a look at the choke assembly, what can i do for the choke, i was really hoping to fix the choke so i can cold start it easy but without messing with damn carburetors lol they are a pain in my ass.

If i do have to mess with the jets or pilots where do i get replacements for it i still have my factory carb but the trike had sat for several years and it was bad off.

Here is the carb that i bought for the 82 200e http://www.ebay.com/itm/270920908010...84.m1439.l2649

Please help me with this and thanks again!!!!!

[barnett468]

Hello SUPERTEX



OK a couple things to do. It's easy, easy , easy!


1. GAS LEVEL TEST – If your gas level is low in the float bowl then your carb will be lean. Install clear plastic tube on bowl drain, hold open end of tube level with top of carb and open bowl drain valve. The gas will flow into the tube. It should be from level to 3/16" below the bottom of the carb body where it meets the bowl. If it is incorrect then adjust float accordingly.



2. With bike warm set idle slightly low, then at idle turn fuel mix screw on left side 1 turn in then 1 turn out in 1/2 turn increments letting it sit 30 seconds to stabilize after each 1/2 turn. If idle increases noticeably in either direction leave it at best setting, readjust idle screw on rt side of carb to desired idle and tell us what happened.


3. Remove carb and adjust choke as mentioned in my post above by bending the little metal tab that the plastic handle pushes on providing it does not close as much as my adjustment recommends. Let us know how far it closed originally.


4. Remove float bowl and get tiny number off of tiny brass jet, not the one in the very center.


5. Reassemble and try full choke when eng is cold and ride and report back.


If it starts better but burbles off idle we will drop the needle 2 positions by raising the clip


You will probably still need 1 or 2 larger pilot.

[barnett468]

jetsrus.com or local honda shop maybe.

[SUPERTEX]

Ok thanks for all the info Barnett, i will do as you say prob next weekend or if i have a day of this week, but also on another note i never messed with the needle adjustments in my carb it didnt even look like you could i need to take it back down and take a good long look at it, i just was go go go with it, my 250es was bolt up and go no problem so i decided to just do the same thing.

[barnett468]

For future reference


NEEDLE

Remove slide

remove cable

remove either big clip or screw holding plate down

turn slide upside down and wiggle needle out

lay needle on table with open end facing down

put finger on clip or it will fly

push on needle and clip will come off

reposition and reverse process

Don't scratch table, lol.

[SUPERTEX]

LOL ok thanks

[KFWA]

hello, I'm new to the forum and just purchased an 84 200ES Big Red. I have already restored a 200x and an ATC 125m, plus I have a number of other quads of various makes and models.

However this one has me stumped. I can handle the mechanics, but the electrics are a pain to me. I hate looking at electric schematics in the back of a Clymer magazine - I'm a visual guy moreso than any other way.

Anyways, this 200ES is in much worse shape than I thought when I bought it. The wiring has been rigged on it where the iginition is on without the key and a replacement starter button has been added to replace the existing one. The solenoid on has 1 wire going to it. I connected a battery charger to it the battery in "jump" mode in an attempt to start it and the fist thing I noticed is the lights came on with no option to turn them off. I attempted to start it by pushing the button and all it did was dim the headlight a bit. Of course the pull starter is just a cover. Its odd to me that people just gut those pull starters - this is the 3rd ATC I've bought with the pull start internal mechanics missing.

So I've purchased a replacement wiring harness, ignition with key and light/starter switch and I was hoping someone could point me to a dummies guide on how to redo all this from scratch without having to read a schematic in the back of a service manual.

I'd really like to do my best to restore this 3 wheeler back to original - or as close as possible.

Also as noted, after working on the 200X , my XL 200 dirt bike, and now initially starting this one, and also working on my '85 TRX 250, I can appreciate the replacement cost comparison between the 200 CC honda engines and the 250's of that era. The carbs prices in particular with the abundance of cheap aftermarket carbs for the 200 really make me appreciate the 200cc honda's I have opposed to the 250cc.

now that I think about it - I can probably just use the 250 TRX as a guide for wiring and base it on the 200ES as they probably have the same setup.

[SUPERTEX]

Hello KFWA the wiring on the old 200's isn't that complicated if you go piece by piece and good luck on that, but if you make a whole new post you will get alot more reply's, due to the fact that this thread is getting old and were just about figured all my stuff out so not many people will be looking here for your question.

[deuce228]

Nice looking machine!

[tripledog]

I'll give you twice what you paid for it, LOL. Nice score; the 200es is an awesome ride!