YTM 200e stuck in gear, metal in oil

[cmdrca]

Hi guys,
I stumbled across a YTM 200e last week. I've had cycles for years, but this was my first trike. I had no history of this one and traded a lawn mower for it, and since all I heard about three wheelers was pretty negative, I figured I'd see if I could just part this out. But then I cleaned the carb, checked the oil, and put in fresh gas, and the thing fired right up, idles perfectly-and sounds healthy. I actually enjoyed worked on it, and have grown to like its engineering. It's light enough to move around, but has more substance than a bike.
But, since I've got it it's been stuck in first gear. Engine off, can't shift it up or down. Engine running, can't shift it up or down. It'll idle at a stop beautifully, accelerate smoothly, and stop well. I can push down on the shifter and the bike stops-feels like a clutch? But it wouldn't shift. So I pulled the right side cover off last night and drained the oil-and found three 1/2 inch metal chunks loose at the oil screen. Uh oh. At this point I figure that some gear in the transmission is stripped. At the worst, some metal might have made it's way into the piston, etc.

I'm disappointed as I have started to really enjoy working on this bike. What's your advice at this point? Is this a known problem/solution here? I'm guessing there is no way around this other than to split the cases to get at the transmission, yes? Probably a gear is sheared? I'm not sure what would cause that, and I'm not sure I have the time for the repair. I'm guessing a gasket kit is pricey. Should I part it out? Advice?

[honda200xguy]

Yep it's time to split the cases
My guess is that you are missing a chunk out of your gear(s).
Take it apart take out the transmission gears and the problem should be easy to spot
And you can check on the other stuff while you're in there so I'd get a gasket set, make sure there is no more problems
Good luck

[83 200e]

good machines, they generally dont have many problems, personally less than any honda ive had. good luck!

[barnett468]

a broken gear will not prevent it from shifting, the shift problem is likely in the clutch area. check there first. if nothing is obvious, remove clutch etc, put the rear wheels in the air or bike on a box then have someone kick it over continuously while you try to rotate shift drum. if it rotates that is a good sign and problem is in clutch side. rotate it both directions.

take a photo of metal pieces and post a link to flickr or similar so we can see them.

are they aluminum or steel?

drag magnet thru drained oil to see what you get.

[dougspcs]

Your description of the problem and function is very complete..5 stars for bringing much info along with your question.

From your report your clutch system is working perfectly so I'll have to disagree with Barnett. Engagement is smooth, auto-clutch disengages when the shifter is pressed down. Sound like all is well in that regard.

I'd have to agree with honda200xguy that its case split time..

Likely broken shift fork or something like that..a bit of exploration and might get in and out with minimal parts and a few gaskets.

Keep us informed if you decide to fix it.

[muthey]

If you need transmission gears shift drum and shift forks let me know I have a spare set sitting here that I can get rid of for dirt cheap

[cmdrca]

Thanks for your help, guys. I'm clearing space in my workshop tonight to proceed with some more dismantling. I figure next I'll pull the engine from the frame. I'll go in with eyes wide open. The trike is very complete, and looks well-taken care of. The light work, all plastic is present and in good shape, and the wiring so far doesn't appear hacked. I think it deserves to stay together, if possible.
I did save three metal pieces I pulled out of the engine-I'll photo them and load them up here.
The guy I got it from said that he hooked up a car battery to try to get the electric start to work. The most optimistic I could be is that in doing so the power from the battery caused the starter teeth to strip and the metal teeth I found are from the starter cog, but I don't think I'd be that lucky. Is that common? Maybe I'll pull the starter first just in case.

When you say to remove the clutch, is that both sets of clutches? (I'm new to the secondary clutch that this has-all I have experience with is the manual clutch basket that bikes also have. And I'm not sure what the shift drum is-or how to tell if it's bad). Are the shift forks on the inside of the clutch basket? I don't quite understand how the clutch is actuated, and what role the secondary (centrifugal) clutch plays in shifting. Is there a link to an easy explanation I can study handy?
I have downloaded both the Haynes and the factory manual so I will progress with both.

[dougspcs]

1st, no the shifter fork isn't in anyway connected with the clutches.

The manual clutch system in these machines works on the same principal as your manual dirt bikes..except that instead of a cable actuated engagement/disengagement it is linked to the shifter pedal assy. Which is to say when you lift or press down the shifter it disengages the clutch and alwayed the shift drum in the transmission to rotate to the next gear up or down without clashing..

The centrifugal clutch works much like a chain saw..increase engine RPMs and the centrifugal engages and connects power from the crank to your transmission. It's purpose of course is to allow the rider to stop the machine and sit at an idle without any clutch engagement at all.

The shift forks, one of the assumed causes of your problem, are located in the heart of the transmission..once you get it out and apart you will see that you are in familiar territory if you have ever had to repair a transmission on a dirt bike. The design on all these is very much the same, only the clutch operation is different. Good luck..

You'll see in the manual that they have laid out a pretty detailed disassembly proceedure..it will be your friend.

[cmdrca]

Just finished building a new workbench in my shed partially to aid in disassembly. I still have to remove the motor, so that's my next project. Gotta wait til it gets out of triple digits here in TX though. In the meantime, should I just troll ebay for a gasket kit? Are there certain kit manufacture kits to avoid?

[muthey]

I've had good luck with spi, and versah kits

[dougspcs]

Just finished building a new workbench in my shed partially to aid in disassembly. I still have to remove the motor, so that's my next project. Gotta wait til it gets out of triple digits here in TX though. In the meantime, should I just troll ebay for a gasket kit? Are there certain kit manufacture kits to avoid?

I'd go OEM gaskets personally..last time I went aftermarket on a Yamaha topend ( Versah to be specific ) I ended up with a head gasket that didn't fit the dowels and a 3 day delay in my reassembly to reorder OEM.



Should have bought OEM in the 1st place..won't make that mistake twice!

Non-geniune parts are often a PITA!! Brake shoes that don't fit and have to be sanded, carb rebuild kits that make it run worse, cables that are the wrong length, clutches that last 1/2 the life of the originals, there are a hundred stories to prove the point about OEM!

[cmdrca]

Question: I've got a shaft-drive, and I'm about to take the engine out of the frame so I can disassemble. How do I disconnect the engine from the shaft? The Haynes says I need to remove the rear end and it's housing. Is there a way I can open up the plastic side cover on the engine side of the shaft so I can pull the engine without taking off the rear end?

[Jwmajic]

Pulling the rear end is easy just pull the pin on the shock and 2 swing arm bolts its nothing.

[cmdrca]

I've got no suspension on the rear end, so it's a solid shaft from the engine to the rear end. Four nuts on one side, four bolts on the other.

[Jwmajic]

Oh thats right you had a 200 sorry i was thinking of something else when I posted.