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Thread: YTM 200e stuck in gear, metal in oil

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    glendive, montana
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    no worries tri again in my area yamahas are a little more scarce as this was honda country, so I am a restorer of mine when possible, but I am the same way you are with honda's, unfortunately my wife made me get rid of about 7 three wheelers this last year, but I at least got to keep my favorite three my 225 dx and my tri-z and my lil70 project. None the less open up your cases and see what all you are going to need and let me know tranny wise , the only cases I have are to a 225 dr and they are slightly different where the cylinder goes in as the 225 is a bigger cylinder..
    rectum nothin damn near killed them
    feel free to leave feed back for me here. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...06#post1119306

  2. #32
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmdrca View Post
    Here's a photo of the broken gear. You can see it through the cut out in the case. I'm worried that those teeth have cut into the cases on the inside. We will see.
    That’s 1st gear on the main shaft [item 20 in the link below]. 1st gear on the countershaft [item 2] may also be damaged. It would be helpful to post photos of the cogs on all the gears. If they, or the edge of the slot in the opposing gear are rounded much it will possibly pop out of gear.

    http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-ytm200ek...2.html#results


    If the shift forks [items 7, 8 and 9 in the link below] look shiny or blue on the fork area they might be bent.

    http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-ytm200ek...6.html#results

    Verify your model if you order parts from the link I provided, however I might check with Muthey first, he might be your new best friend.




    Quote Originally Posted by cmdrca View Post
    I'm worried that those teeth have cut into the cases on the inside. We will see.
    Even if the case has some damage it is likely just cosmetic only, but a photo will help determine this too.




    Quote Originally Posted by cmdrca View Post
    Also, I realized I hadn't taken off the magneto so will have to do that first. Have to get a gear puller as I don't have one.
    As I mentioned earlier any other puller other than the proper one might damage it. Muthey might have a good suggestion for this.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    dallas
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    Thanks, guys. Appreciate the help. I don't feel as much of a loner knowing I have a engine disassembled all over my shop. Muthey, thanks for your offer. May take you up on that, indeed. I'd love to find a spare trike around here for parts. Can't seem to find any luck on craigslist though.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    dallas
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    I split the cases open and here's what I found.
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    First gear-I think it's first- is cracked in two. Not sure what caused this. As I don't know transmissions well, I'm not sure what to look for that would have made this happen. When the bike was running, I rode it around for maybe 10 minutes, and I'm guessing it was in first then-but maybe second? It seemed fine. When I'd put the shifter down or up, the trike would stop until I got off the shifter-then it would keep going but stay in the same gear. I tried adjusting the nut on the clutch case, but it didn't help. I kicked up and down on the shifter before I tore it down-maybe that's when I broke the gear? I drained the oil, and that's when I found the medal. Must have been first gear disintegrating. Also, the only other damage I noticed inside is one if the two shift drum mounting points. You can see that the hollow basin that post mounts in is almost gone. The piece that broke out is in the photo above. Click image for larger version. 

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    Not sure what to look for in a bad shift arm. I haven't taken the gears out and here's some photos of how they sit. You can see where first gear goes there is a gear tooth stuck between the post and the mount. Click image for larger version. 

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    Anyway, I definitely need a new gear. Not sure if I need more than that, as I don't know what caused this in the first place. I did notice a little scoring on the middle of the teeth on third gear, but nothing major. I also don't know if I'm supposed to move the shift drum by hand. It still seems hard to move it if I rotate the drum. Definitely not shifting, but I don't know how it's really supposed to engage/disengage.

    I'd like to put this thing back together but am worried that it would be a waste of time/limited funds.

    So far, I know I need a new gasket set. Also, I had to slot almost every case bolt with a dremel to remove. The Philips head bolts were stuck tight and my impact driver couldn't remove most of them so I slotted them and used the flathead in the impact driver. A lot of work to get them out. I had to do the same with the allen head bolts on the middle drive. The PO must have Loctited everything. I'd have to find a replacement set of case bolts to reassemble. Muthey, let me know if you have trans parts that'll work to replace this gear. But I also want to be sure she shifts before putting it all back together.

    So Fellas, what are your thoughts? Where do I go from here?

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    glendive, montana
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    you're going to need a new side case for the broken hole, I would check ebay and see if you can find a cheap one. Not sure how much funding you are having available for your project, but this could possibly get a little expensive on you.
    rectum nothin damn near killed them
    feel free to leave feed back for me here. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...06#post1119306

  6. #36
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmdrca View Post
    Not sure what to look for in a bad shift arm.

    I haven't taken the gears out

    You can see where first gear goes there is a gear tooth stuck between the post and the mount.

    I also don't know if I'm supposed to move the shift drum by hand. It still seems hard to move it if I rotate the drum. Definitely not shifting, but I don't know how it's really supposed to engage/disengage.

    But I also want to be sure she shifts before putting it all back together.

    So Fellas, what are your thoughts? Where do I go from here?
    Here’s a couple suggestions

    ENGINE CASE – Search online for motorcycle or atv or 3 wheeler salvage yards etc.

    Possibly wait to get the case before you buy the gears because you might not find a case by itself. You might have to buy a complete bottom end just to get the case, in which case, some of the gears in it might be useable.


    GEAR SOURCE ETC – If you get a case then obviously possibly Muthey or new gears from the links I previously posted for you or salvage yard or Ebay.


    SHIFT FORK INSPECTION – Post close up photos if you want, but typically, a bent fork will have shiny wear marks on one side near the tips and on the opposite side at or near the bottom of the “U” in the fork.


    GEAR INSPECTION - Simply disassemble the trans then take the specific photos I suggested previously.

    Although it can still be difficult to determine if a gear needs replacing simply by looking at it, it is better than nothing.

    You can also take it to a bike shop and pay them to inspect it and advise.


    TRANSMISSION CIRCLIPS – I suggest buying new ones plus a couple extras. They are fairly easy to damage [stretch out of shape] buy opening them too wide etc. You will need circlip pliers to remove them.


    TESTING SHIFTING – You can do as I suggested in a previous post however the gear shafts might try to lift out of the case until the cogs on the gears are lined up with the slots in the opposing gear.

    It might be helpful if someone hold the shafts down while you turned the gear shaft while rotating the drum.

    If you removed the detent from the drum it might be best to reinstall it, otherwise, simply look at the shift fork pin on the drum to determine when it is properly in gear.

    Without the detent, the drum should turn easily once the gears are lined up properly providing the trans is not completely free of oil.

  7. #37
    emmie357's Avatar
    emmie357 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Just throwing this out there, not sure if it's been mentioned yet...

    Most parts swap between YTM200 & YTM200E, but the engine cases are obviously different due to chain/shaft drive, and the tranny is different due to different gearing (25 inch tires stock on the 200E instead of the 22's on the 200). Now I've never put the gears side by side to compare, but it makes sense that they would be geared different. So make sure you get 200E replacement parts.
    84 YTM200E "yamahauler"
    85 YTM200
    85 KXT250 Tecate

  8. #38
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Saw the engine below on ebay but didn't look closely at it, kinda pricey imo.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Yamaha-...#ht_1082wt_910

  9. #39
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    cmdrca: Shame you arent closer, I have a ytm200el that needs ring and piston work, best I understand thats all thats wrong but I havent looked at it that hard.

    If you were closer, I would let you have it for free as I bought it for it's plastic parts and im done with it:. I'm in central Missouri if you want to make a 9 hour road trip.....
    Last edited by eBoyDog; 01-14-2014 at 09:47 PM.

  10. #40
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    actually emmie357 the gears are the same between all the 200's and the 225, the cases are almost the same as well other than shaft or chain drive, and cylinder sizes.
    rectum nothin damn near killed them
    feel free to leave feed back for me here. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...06#post1119306

  11. #41
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    eBoyDog, thanks for the very generous offer. I actually stopped and thought about making a trip up there for a moment. Wish we were closer and I'd take you up on it. For now though, I guess I will keep looking for a local trike I can swap parts from.

  12. #42
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmdrca View Post
    eBoyDog, thanks for the very generous offer. I actually stopped and thought about making a trip up there for a moment. Wish we were closer and I'd take you up on it. For now though, I guess I will keep looking for a local trike I can swap parts from.
    You can most likely get that engine to you in 2 to 10 days for $80.00 - $100.00 without having to package it by simply posting a shipping request on uship.com. I have used it with great results and its free to post.

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