Whats wrong with it?

[Trucker200X]

Okay, I don't know what is going on with my Trike. Today I took it out riding and it keeps dying. If I start it it will run for a couple seconds and die, but some other times it will run good for like 5 minutes then out of no where just die. Whats going on with it? Also which screws are which on the carb? The bike is a 200X. If your sitting on the bike and looking at the right side of the carb what is the screw that is right there with the spring? Where is the idle screw? And help with "Tuning" will be much appreciated...

[MyNameIsMud]

the idler is the screw on the right of the carb,,,the one with the spring

[yellowhammer]

check your plug when mine did the same hting as yours, for awhile, i checked the plug it was and I replaced it and it was perfect. it could also be that your bike isnt gettin her gas rite, maybe sh eis just giving enuff to idle for a short periond of time, check it out :?

[yellowhammer]

dont mind my spelling mistakes in the last reply, im drunk

[Trucker200X]

lol, Alright thanks bro...I checked the plug...Looks alright...may go ahead and purchase a new one anyways. I think the Tank has got rust in it and may be clogging the lines, or jet's...Think I am going to take a break from working on it tomorrow and resume Friday...And try getting it running good enough to take on a ride on Saturday or Sunday. Thanks for the help guys....

[NOS_350X]

dont mind my spelling mistakes in the last reply, im drunk

Thats what the edit button is for smart guy.

[BigRedRunner]

AHHHHHHH! Bringing back bad memories for me. I posted on my problem like a bizilliion times and never did get anywhere on it. Mine would load up at idle, idle sparadictally, and sometimes die. I overhauled the carb and cured the rich idle by replacing a crumbled pilot screw gasket. I stlil had a yo yo idle though and I tried everything, but to no avail. I said the hell with it and just tore it apart and overhauled the top end. Turns out it had a fresh bore job with a honda piston and rings. Someone didn't bother to change the valves and my exhaust valve wasnt sealing tight. Sometimes it wouldn't seal right, idle slow, miss and die. Other times it would seal and the idle would start to scream because I had the idle screw open trying to compensate for a bad idle.

Anyways, here's everything you can possibly check out. Some of these probably won't affect the symptoms described, but still good to check. First, check your timing. Take the silver cover off the side over engine that has "CDI" stamped on it. Then take off the plugs on the stator cover (two aluminum plugs) on the bottom left of the engine. Taking your spark plug out will make the engine easier to turn too. Take a peak inside the top hole of your stator cover while using a 12mm socket in the middle to crank over the engine. Look close and until you see a mark labeled "F" on the flywheel, line it up with the mark in the case. Then go up to your engine and just line up the marks there and shoot for a gap between .012" and .016". If your marks are 180 degrees off, just crank the engine over and trying again. Also make sure that the advance unit in there operates smoothly.

Overhauling your carb is an excellent idea to. Dennis Kirk sells the kit for $15. Its pretty much just take the old parts from your carb and match them to the new ones in the kit. Use the carb cleaner that you soak parts in and be sure to blow ALL passages clear with compressed air. Set your pilot screw (mixture screw) 2 1/4 turns out and adjust for an idle of around 1,300 RPM. Then proceed to slowly turn the screw in until the engine dies and back it off one turn. Also check where your idle screw touches the air valve in your carb (that big shinny cylinder thing) and make sure it smooth and not catching.

Set your valves too, its also fairly easy, but important. Take the big silver plugs off your engine top and roll the engine over like you did when timing it, but use the the "T" mark inside there instead. Your valves should be closed at the mark, if not roll the engine over one full revolution and try again. Then you just loosen the adusters on your rocker arms and shoot for a clearance of .002" Make to check it AFTER you've tightened everything up.

Everything else would be just air related. Make sure you don't any air leaks by spraying everything down with carb cleaner (except your pipe ) and listen for a change in your idle. A clean air filter is a must also. Change that plug too!

[Trucker200X]

Wow, Thanks for ALL the info...I am going to deffently give all that a try and also purchase a new spark plug...Air filiter is brand new, and the carb was just rebuilt...I hope I can figure it out today or tomorrow...I guess I just need to "Play around" with it till it starts running good...lol...Thanks again bro...

[BigRedRunner]

Sounds like mine did. It had good moments and bad. Forgot about cam chain tension to. Look on the top of the gearbox, on the left hand side, just behind the jug. Take off the rubber cover, loosen the center bolt, then the outer nut below it. Start the engine, pray it will idle for a moment, then kill it. Tighten the nut and bolt and your tensioner is set.

[Trucker200X]

Well I just took off the carb and change the jets, one was so clogged you could barley see through it. I went ahead and change every other adjustment screw (I don't know that names...Still new to this). So I need to ask all over again to get my Trike started...These questions are all from if you were sitting on the Trike...
1. Screw on right side of carb...Idle I believe...Correct?
2. Little screw on the bottom side of carb?
Thats the only screw I remember being about to adjust...Can any one tell me which screws to turn and adjust and how much...Just to get it started and then how to adjust it from there?...thanks in advanced...

[BigRedRunner]

The screw on the bottom is your pilot screw. It controls the amount of fuel metered at idle. It can affect idle quality and off-idle response. Remove it and be make sure NOTHING is obstructing the pathways. Remember, compressed air is our friend. When you go to assemble it, it should be put back in top to bottom as follows.... o-ring, washer, spring screw. Tighten the screw until it lightly seats and back it off 2 1/4 turns. I just set the idle screw until its almost fully seated and quickly back it off once it takes off. Better to high and idle, then no idle . Remember, shoot for an idle of around 1,300. Slowly turn the pilot screw in until it dies, then back it off one turn, restart, and set your idle.

[Trucker200X]

Okay, Cool...First thing tomorrow I am going to hopefully get it going...I guess I need to buy a owners manuel for this Trike...Thanks for all the help BigRedRunner...I realy appriciate it...