Oh yeah, .05 mm or .002 inches. I'm in the US too lol. I just called a buddy to see if he has a set.
Oh, and I will keep you guys posted! Hopefully a video of me driving around tomorrow!
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
Oh yeah, .05 mm or .002 inches. I'm in the US too lol. I just called a buddy to see if he has a set.
Oh, and I will keep you guys posted! Hopefully a video of me driving around tomorrow!
1985 200S - fixer upper
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
Ok im a dingaling i didnt have valve cover torqued down. When i tightened it down, there was much smaller gap. If i pull in the tappet though i can still here it tapping. Im going to check them anyway tomorrow once i get my feeler gauges. Would .001 of an inch make that much difference in difficulty of pulling the starter? On the up stroke, i can hear hissing. I guess that is the air going out the exhaust valve?
1985 200S - fixer upper
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
If i try to pull up hard, it seems like its just locking...
1985 200S - fixer upper
Power User
Roostin Away
Man it seems like you have something seriously wrong, unless your valve clearance is WAY too loose. Are you sure the timing chain is not damaged or binding? Check the clearance first, then go from there.
THE 80's RAGE! Currently owns:
81, 85 Yamaha Tri Moto 125
83 Yamaha Tri Moto 200 x2
82,83 Yamaha Tri Moto 175 project
85 Yamaha Tri Z 250
84 Kawasaki Tecate 250
84 Honda ATC 70
85 Honda ATC 350X
84 Honda ATC 250R
(2) 84 Honda ATC 200x
82, 83 Honda ATC 185s
81 ATC 200
Lots of other parts and bikes
Roostin' Away
Arm chair racerRoostin Away
Well, your piston isnt helping your problem any... The number on it corresponds to a 12:1 compression. stock is like 8.5 or 9:1. My X has a kick start and its tough to kick at 10.5:1... with a pull start, 12:1 will be HECK to startOriginally Posted by MonkOFox
1983 212x "Mickey Dunlap" Powroll TT Trike -Blue frame, Supertrapp (looking for a Powroll DD), WEB Stage II cam, Powroll 6mm stroker, Wiseco 10.25:1 piston stock bore, ported, polished, +2 Swinger,White low-pros and 250R front fender, BAPP rear shock, Powroll Decals, NOS Carlisle R/A's
Gone:
'83 185s, '86 200x, '70's Full Suspension Hi-Performance ATC RD400,
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
Crap.. Is the compression determined by the rings?
1985 200S - fixer upper
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
going to my buddies to get the old one.
1985 200S - fixer upper
Roostin' Away
Arm chair racerRoostin Away
No. Look at the pic in the link below then read my explanationCrap.. Is the compression determined by the rings?
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8241/8626261522_218de9095f.jpg
The piston on the right (a high comp piston similar to yours) has a more "domed" top, and a larger piston top than a stock piston (on the left in the picture), as you can see, so it takes up more space in the combustion chamber and makes the fuel/air mix compress more, making a more powerful explosion. Yours is like the one on the right as well, and a 12:1 piston is the highest they make for the ATC's, and the 12:1 is meant for racing gas only, something like leaded 98 octane or above. thats why its heck to pull over, and if you want, a stock or 10.5:1 piston would be much better!
1983 212x "Mickey Dunlap" Powroll TT Trike -Blue frame, Supertrapp (looking for a Powroll DD), WEB Stage II cam, Powroll 6mm stroker, Wiseco 10.25:1 piston stock bore, ported, polished, +2 Swinger,White low-pros and 250R front fender, BAPP rear shock, Powroll Decals, NOS Carlisle R/A's
Gone:
'83 185s, '86 200x, '70's Full Suspension Hi-Performance ATC RD400,
Power User
Catch me if you can
I hate 12:1 !!!!!!
All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
A high compression piston will make it harder to pull start, but if I were a bettin man I'd say you replacing the rocker cover is the problem. To test my theory I would suggest you slip the timing chain off the cam gear and try turning it back and forth with your fingers. It will NOT be able to go all the way around but it should move easily (in/out and back/fourth) I suspect the two halves do not match up PERFECTLY. As Honda recommends you replace both head and rocker box as a MACTHED SET.
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
Damn, that's some sad news about the valve cover having to be the same... Lame. Well here is the old piston:
Another thing, this is strange to me. When you're timing, you put the T and then line up the sprocket with the 'O'. I was manually turning the crank and noticed this:
How does it end up 180 degrees off?
1985 200S - fixer upper
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
Does it do two up and downs with one combustion or something? Another thing, the motor turns counter clockwise right?
I googled 4 stroke engine and:
"...The piston make two complete passes in the cylinder to complete one operating cycle ...". So that probably explains the O and T being
180 degrees off in my previous post.
Last edited by MonkOFox; 10-11-2013 at 08:32 AM.
1985 200S - fixer upper
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
Ok so, I have the motor parts back together with the old stock piston. Just have to get it in the frame and set up the stator/generator. Then I'll give it a pull and see if it's less difficult to turn over now. I pulled on the cam and it slid out (I had to turn it counter-clockwise slightly for it to come out). It may have been a little difficult because I adjusted the clearance closer just to see if that would make a difference (with the old piston in).
Tore down the carb to clean it too. It had a thin layer of varnish in the bowl so I'm sure some of the jets are clogged. Been a sittin'. How do you drain a carb for sitting up a long period of time? Or is there no real way to prevent 'gunking'?
I'll keep you guys updated! : ).
Last edited by MonkOFox; 10-11-2013 at 08:35 AM.
1985 200S - fixer upper
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
Okay, got it back together with the old piston and pulling it was a breeze. Set the valves best I could (I think it was right). It's at a really weird angle, so I put the feeler underneath, let it hang and just snugged the tappet down until it wouldn't move then backed off until it would drag in between. Problem though, it's leaking like crazy. drip after drip and it's hissing between the cylinder head and jug. Not between the bottom end and jug though. I tried to snug the 8mm cap nuts on the cover more, but didn't really help. Guess I need to test the compression to make sure maybe there isn't too much?
A little oil probably got on the gaskets when I re-tore it down. Is that a no no, or does it matter that much? I'm pretty comfortable putting it back together and stuff. Could timing being off make it leak like that? I put the 'T' on the flywheel and the 'O' on the sprocket lined up at the same time. Put everything on, then advanced the timing to the 'F' mark and put the stator/pulse generator on and then the CDI cover.
It's idling high, but I can tinker with that. I'm just sad that it's leaking soo much oil : (. I'm using 93 octane gas, does that matter? Should I only use 87? Here is a video of it running:
You can see a drip on the right side of the bike and later on you can see bubbling around that gasket. I can upload a better video if you want. Sounds like it's running good, just leaking like crazy for some reason.
www.sportsmanstuff.com/1013131432.3gp
1985 200S - fixer upper
Roostin' Away
Arm chair racerRoostin Away
Whenever I put my X together, the head leaked bad until I put the proper torque on all the head bolts. You will need a torque wrench, probably 1/2", and then torque the scorn nuts to 22 ft lbs and the socket head cap screws to 9 ft lbs. Just 'snugging' them wont do the job. They all need to be correct torqued and all even or else somethings going to go way wrong. Do it right the first time
1983 212x "Mickey Dunlap" Powroll TT Trike -Blue frame, Supertrapp (looking for a Powroll DD), WEB Stage II cam, Powroll 6mm stroker, Wiseco 10.25:1 piston stock bore, ported, polished, +2 Swinger,White low-pros and 250R front fender, BAPP rear shock, Powroll Decals, NOS Carlisle R/A's
Gone:
'83 185s, '86 200x, '70's Full Suspension Hi-Performance ATC RD400,
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