the barn find is running! PICS

[ericmreimer]

So a couple weeks ago I brought home a 200es that was in my buddy's barn for the last untold number of years. The day we pulled it out I was able to get it to fire by putting gas in the plug hole but wouldn't stay running. I figured a good carb clean and we'd be golden. So saturday, I pulled the carb and cleaned it all out real good, put it back together and it fired up first pull. It runs really smooth and has a lot more power than mine does, and shifts nice and smooth and easy. The only problem is that its burning oil possibly through the rings. I'm going to do a compression test this week sometime soon.

The day it was pulled from the barn


Its in the background in this shot.

[NO-SCALES]

Looking good man!!! Nice find

[6speedthumper]

A compression test is not going to really tell you anything other then you have adequate compression. Which you pretty much already know because it starts, runs, and you say it has far better power then your other wheeler. Although, doing the test, and having an actual numerical value is helpfull (peace of mind). The test you should do to determine the sealing quality of the rings is a cylinder leak down test. It pressurises the cylinder with compressed air, and if a certain amount of air pressure is lost in the cylinder within a certain amount of time (as per mfg usually) then you will know the sealing quality of the rings. If I were you, change the oil and filter a couple of times (you never did say that you changed the oil). Run it, get it hot, let it cool down, and change it. Help get those oil control rings to seat, and fresh oil is going to lube better then old as dirt stuff that is in there. Also, filling the cylinder with Marvel Mystery Oil for a night or two will help to "condition" the rings if you will. Any Marvel that seeps past the rings will help to clean them out. I've had to do that serval times on older bikes that have sat, with great results. Just be sure to turn the engine over by hand WITHOUT the spark plug in it to clean all, or most, of the Marvel from the cylinder before you start it. Then run the hell out of it! It is going to smoke like a freight train for a good fifteen minutes. But, it will clear up. Just be sure to have a couple extra spark plugs unitl all the oil residue is burned out of the cylinder.

[dougspcs]

Nice job on the clean-up, however I find pic #3 both cute, but highly objectionable..

Please review the site rules regarding the display of photos or video showing operators not using proper safety gear!

Adults operating without a helmet is one thing..it's your life and therefore you have a certain amount of power to choose as a consenting adult.

But people who don't practice safe machine operation with their children should have their DAD card revoked!!

If she is just sitting on the seat of a non-operational machine I retract my statement!

[ericmreimer]

Man great advice! I topped off the oil(about half quart) just to run it real quick so there was old oil in there.

So fill the cylinder with MMO and let it set overnight, crank it by hand with the plug out. Fire it up and burn off the excess. And change the oil a couple times.....got it I think lol

[dougspcs]

Also I will have to disagree with thumper about his theory on engine compression determination..

An engine compression test is a perfect way to determine if a ring job is in order..if done properly you can even determine if your blue smoke issue is ring or valve train related.

1st do a cold engine compression test three times and record your numbers..average them.

2nd remove the plug and shoot a SMALL amount of oil in the cylinder, pull it over by had 2-3 times to distribute the oil and repeat your compression test 3x. Again average your numbers and see what the difference is from dry to wet.

If it more than say 10-15psi you definitely have a ring wear issue..if almost the same like say 5-10 psi your blue smoke is likely due to oil getting past a valve seal into the cylinder..

A pressure leak down test won't tell you if your pressure loss is rings or valve train..just that you're losing pressure.

Lastly running the hell out of an engine that has been barn parked for any extended period is a bad idea..treat it gently while the long stationery parts get lubed again.

[ericmreimer]

On the picture, i'll be honest I didn't realize(my own fault, no one else's) there was a rule so I'll pull that picture down. No excuse, they're clearly posted at the top of the page.

[Canyon Man]

i Like picture #3. It kinda looks like a miniature one

[Big G]

That trike cleaned up nicely Eric! But no fair, don't you already have a 200ES. I'm still waiting for one...my day's coming!

Keep us posted if that Marvel fixes the smoking issue...

[ericmreimer]

Actually Big G I already have two lol

[6speedthumper]

Yes a compression test is going to tell you the condition of the rings. More specifically, the compression rings. He already knows it has adequate compression. It starts, runs, and has good power. If the oil control rings have failed, or are failing, a compression test IS NOT going to tell you squat about their condition. An engine can have awesome compression, yet still smoke like a SOB. Same is true for the opposite problem; engine has low compression (needs a bump start) yet does not burn a drop of oil when running.

A cylinder leak down test is the best way to test for "blow-by". Sure, you can lose pressure from a valve not seating properly when performing the test. Best way to check for that is to feel for forced air leaking from the back side of the carb, and from the tail pipe. That tells you if you have a valve(s) not fully seating. Same is true for worn rings or cylinder; remove the oil fill plug and feel for forced air coming out of it. So yes, a cylinder leak down test IS going to determine if you have a ring, or valve issue. Matter of fact, a compression test will only show that you have compression, be it good or bad. If you have low compression, it is not going to tell you if it is ring or valve related. Unless you have confirmed 100% that the valves are closed, you can only ASSUME the rings or valve(s) are at fault. That is why a cylinder leak down test is in order to determine the actual sealing quality of all top end components.

A valve seal is a possibility, but, unless the seal is completely missing, it SHOULD only smoke when cold and go away once warmed up.

Lastly, I only said to "run the hell out of it" AFTER changing the oil a couple of times, and soaking the cylinder with MMO. So that way, all the top end components have had fresh oil splashed on them, and have been given a chance to free up. It has been MY experience, that after soaking a top end, it likes to be spanked a little to help clear out the cylinder. I'm not saying to go out there a bounce the engine off the rev liniter, and ride it like you stole it (or hate it, lol) but get into the throttle a bit, spank it some, and let it have it's usual cool down cycles.

[atc007]

Simply pull your breather hose off the engine case. If it's smoking there,which it will be . You have a cylinder seal issue. If it's a valve seal, which it hardly EVER will be. It will not smoke there.

[6speedthumper]

Simply pull your breather hose off the engine case. If it's smoking there,which it will be . You have a cylinder seal issue. If it's a valve seal, which it hardly EVER will be. It will not smoke there.

I forgot about that^^^ I've seen that before, too. Had a Bayou 220 that did that. There is a reason why I don't want to remember that bike. lol