350x fork seal replacment help

[kebby28]

So I did some searching and couldn't find anything on replacing the fork seals on the 350x. I have this front end installed on my 250es and I noticed one of the forks started to leak the other day. Well after a couple hours of riding it the other fork started leaking.?.?
Well I have never done forks before. I have the manual and I'm a decent mechanic but you folks seem to know all the tricks.

Should I buy this kit for $40
http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-86-HONDA-...c643b9&vxp=mtr

Or can I just do the seals themselves:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ATC-35...7828e5&vxp=mtr

I don't have allot of money but want to do it right. Is there any special tools I need to do this project or any other parts I should do while its apart? And, where is a good place to get a set of black fork boots of similar quality like the blue ones I have on there. Rigid with allot of ribs?
Thanks

[kebby28]

Or #19
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...26a/front-fork

[devilman]

Its a simple job, just follow the manual. I would buy OEM seals. 90 degree snap ring pliers are a great tool to have. all I had was the straight type and it kicked my ass trying to get the rings out. place the fork in a vise and break loose the hex bolt before you unscrew the caps. a decent breaker bar with the hex bit will probably be needed. be careful not to strip it. may want to use an impact so you can shock it loose. I used a pvc pipe just bigger than the forks, as a seal driver.

[Dirtcrasher]

I haven't found any seal to be better than OEM Honda in 25 years.........

[kebby28]

Ahh, just the type of advise I'm looking for. I'll make sure I pick up a hex socket for a 1/2 impact gun. I have a set of 90 degree snap rings pliers. Cheapcycleparts.com looks like the way to go with oem honda parts. I have always been happy with them usually receiving my parts within 7 days of order.

[Dirtcrasher]

Even with a manual, some of it is overlooked and there are a few tips and tricks.

You can call me (Steve) at 774 7sixsix 17nine eight

I will get back to you if I miss the call

I'm home now, but don't mess with my Gold Rush

[kebby28]

The parts wont get to me before next week for sure. But the front has always been kinda sloshy. The manual says nothing about adding air to stiffen it up and I'm not even sure if thats how to go about it. Those air valves must be there for something, right?

[barnett468]

The parts wont get to me before next week for sure. But the front has always been kinda sloshy. The manual says nothing about adding air to stiffen it up and I'm not even sure if thats how to go about it. Those air valves must be there for something, right?

hi;

the purpose of the air valves is to let air out. they occasionally buikd up pressure. its more for pro racesr so they can let the aur out before their next race.

on a good set if shocks you can actially run air only but i would not recinned it.


i would do the following:

get front wheel just barely off the ground

grab axle and wiggle forks, there should be very little play, if there is a lot your lower tubes are worn and the seals might leak.

inspect the tubes, if they are noticeably pitted they will likely leak.

of you weigh more than around 160 you might put in 15 wt fork oil but add 1/2" more than recommended, the orig wt is around 7.

if it is still too soft try to put a 1" spacer in your tubes on top of the springs.

if it is still soft try ariund 7 lbs of air, i would never use more thsan that. you need a low pressure gauge to check it, if you get e gauge on and off quickly you will loose around 2 psi so 9 psi actually = around 7 after the gauge is removed.

if that is close than you might eventually buy some stiffer front springs or try 20 wt oil.

[barnett468]

If the seals have a double lip I put a little bel-ray grease in the groove.

[kebby28]

I weigh 200 even. I forget what I put in for oil originally but I went by what the book said. The forks are in real good shape too.

[barnett468]

I weigh 200 even. I forget what I put in for oil originally but I went by what the book said. The forks are in real good shape too.

ok, i would try what i suggested if they were bottoming easily with fluid in them.

you might replace the damper rod seal while you are at it. these wear a lot after 18 years of riding. when they wear enough the oil leaks past them which causes the forks to feel softer than orig.

for original parts try:

cmsnl.com

partzilla.com

xtremeusa.com

[barnett468]

you can easily do this all on the bike without removing the forks if you want and don't plan to clean the upper tube or remove the damper rod. either way it is an easy way to loosen the allen bolt on the bottom of the tube.

1. put front wheel on large piece of cardboard if you want to try to keep floor clean.

2. place a square oil pan next to the tire with the front edge just under the tube.

3. remove drain screw on back side of one fork leg at the bottom.

4. straddle bike and push down in forks several times until all fluid is gone.

5. reinstall drain screw.

6. repeat on opposite side.

7. if you have a spare body around have them sit forward on the bike.

8. break 1 bolt on bottom of tube loose and remove it completely, there may be a rubber cap over it, if so just pry it off. there is also a copper washer on the bolt. the used ones often still seal but i might buy new ones.

9. if you see loctite on the bolt then clean it off with a wire brush or wire wheel etc.

10. reinstall the bolt with the washer and make it finger tight.

11. repeat on the other side.

12. put the bike on a stand

13. remove the front wheel.

14. either remove the bolt and gently pull on the tube to remove it or remove the entire tube assembly and disassemble wherever you want.


The purpose for doing it this way is so you have substantial pressure pushing down on the top of the damper rod which will hopefully prevent it from turning at any point. Once you remove, clean and reinstall the bolts lightly you will only require the spring pressure in the tube to remove the bolts all the way.

This has worked for me around 99% of the time and eliminates the need for a damper rod holding tool.

If you want to try removing the front tire first before loosening the bolts you can reinstall the front axle after removing the tire. This prevents the tube from turning while you turn the allen bolt.

You can reverse the process to tighten them.

I rarely loctite the bolts but it is a good safety precaution. if you do locrite them i would not use blue not red because if you use red you will likely need the damper rod tool to remove them next time.



if the bolt does not loosen you can reinstall the front titre if you want then have someone sit on the bike amd revert to the original metrthod i described if you want.


put bike on

[Dirtcrasher]

Once drained, put the lower legs in a vice AFTER removing the lower 8mm?? (allen bolt) and draining them, at the bottom and put them in a vice. Some ing action is all that's required to pop out the upper Teflon ?? coated bushing with spacer seal and all. Allot of the 200X 33MM tubes get bent pretty easy. Get that lower tube SPOTLESS!!

There's like 8 pieces to each forks guts so it's chicken but do keep the fork parts separated. If the teflon? coating over the brass/bronze is worn bad/gone, a fork tube is bent so get the tube straightened.

It's really easy with a manual. Home Depot or Lowe's will have a size pipe to drive the bushing and seal back in place. Just use some common sense.........

El CAMEXICAN has you covered on the rest!!!!

[jays375]

Like statedy,follow manual very easy.I agree with oem seals also.Instead of ATF use regular fork oil.Iv'e had good results with 20 weight oil.A little heat from a propane torch on the outside of the fork leg will help remove bushing.It's gonna be messy!Have lot's of cleaner handy.

[BOB MARLIN]

Some good points made here.
I would like to add.
The pvc works well as a seal driver, but use the old seal attatched to the end of the pvc to push the new ones in.
Make sure you put the new seal in the right direction.
I'm about 200lbs. I found 15w fork oil works the best for me in my x's.
With the springs removed, compress the forks all the way,then add the oil. Measure the oil level from the top of the fork as accuratly as you can. 6 inches from the top works well for me. If they are to soft after that, add a little more oil.