Mickey Dunlap Powroll Racing 200x TT Trike Replica -- ATC finished, see last page

[poohbee1]

very nice build your doing a very good job.

[rg97]

Something that would make Mickey proud. I would say RIP buddy, but hes not dead. Ummm, in memory of? In honor of?

[barnett468]

Hello rg97;

Saw your stainless steel engine kit. Some of those come with either stainless washers for the cyl head nuts or no washers at all. Not sure if you know this so I thought I'd mention that you need copper sealing washers under the nuts on the head. Still avail in your favorite link below.

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-atc200x-1...g_90442028000/

[barnett468]

Something that would make Mickey proud. I would say RIP buddy, but hes not dead.

Ummm, in memory of?

Nope, that still implies he has "Expired", he's "Pushin up Daisies", he has "Left the building".

In honor of?

Please...let's not go THAT far.

Maybe, "Mickey Dunlap Tribute Bike' or a "Tribute to Mickey Dunlap"?



BTW - vous dans la culotte de ta femme va effectivement monter et donc rayer ce beau vélo tout en buvant de la bière Fisher d' Alsace M. personne Français volent le lowrider.

Is Bing translate any better?

[barnett468]

POST ADDITION


Sorry, I forgot to include what was translated.

"BTW – Are you going to celebrate when it’s done with some Fisher d’ Alsace beer, then actually ride and therefore scratch this immaculate bike rg97?"


I have no edit button.

[rg97]

Neither bing nor google translate to what you wanted to say in english.
And, I wont finish it with some beer, as I'm not legal to drink for another 4.5 years. Do the math.

BTW- The only way that these will scratch is at the raceway. Other than a few rides around the yard when its done, that just about all. I've considered clearcoating the fenders once all of the decals are on.
The engine isnt going to be touched other than a seal replacement on the clutch actuator and the kicker. It already has 100% socket heads.


Youngest 3-wheeler rider at Pine Lake nationals? ::

[barnett468]

I would not clear the fenders, that is a prob waiting to happen, especially with the decals on. One option is to put some low adhesive clear plastic over the fenders for riding purposes but I would not leave it on. It may try to lift the decals also when you remove it anyway but not if the decals are on good. You can get rolls of the plastic in the kitchen section of home depot etc.

Nice job on the bike.


NO WARRANTIES OR GUARANTEES EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED WITH THIS POST


PS - You stole my little yellow laughing guy. I want him back!

[Mr. Clean]

Why is clearing over the gel coat and decals a problem waiting to happen? Please Explain.

I would not clear the fenders, that is a prob waiting to happen, especially with the decals on.

[rg97]

If it matters... one coat is not enough. If I were to do them (why not?) then I would be putting 4-6 on.

[Mr. Clean]

Did you get a hold of some mid 1970's Lacquer clear? Today's Enamel and Urethane clears only require 2-3 wet coats, and there is such a thing as too much at one time. You can get cracking and other issues if you lay too much clear on in one session.

If you want 4-6 I would suggest doing 3 coats wet. Allow the clear to fully cure, wet sand off a mil or so of paint (mil is roughly one sprayed layer), then spray on 2-3 more wet coats and wet sand and buff. It will be a mirror like finish if done right with no orange peel.

I would be putting 4-6 on.

[rg97]

I was taking a guess, thanks for the correction and info. I do a lot of paint and PC but not clear.

[barnett468]

…there is such a thing as too much at one time. You can get cracking and other issues if you lay too much clear on in one session.

Why is clearing over the gel coat and decals a problem waiting to happen? Please Explain.

Sure, no prob. Without going into a lot of detail, I have added a few items to your list.

If it matters... one coat is not enough. If I were to do them (why not?) then I would be putting 4-6 on.

If you want 4-6 I would suggest doing 3 coats wet.

I was taking a guess, thanks for the correction and info. I do a lot of paint and PC but not clear.

And, I wont finish it with some beer, as I'm not legal to drink for another 4.5 years. Do the math.

Excerpt of instructions for clearing decals from a decal mfg.

6. Apply 2 light tack coats of Automotive Urethane clear following manufacturers mixing directions… (NEVER use a store bought Spray Can Clear)
7. Apply 2 medium coats…
8. Apply your final wet coats and bury the decal in clear.


Even though you have experience doing painting, I suggest you at least do some online research regarding this subject. I am not implying that I don’t think you know how to paint, even though by my math you are around 16 1/2 years old [based on a legal drinking age of 21], I am simply saying that painting clear over decals is NOT the same process/technique as painting clear over new base coat on a car or motorcycle fuel tank etc..

You may already know some of the following.


REDUCER AND COAT APPLICATION - Reducer in the clear can cause the edges or possibly other areas of the decals to lift if the initial coat is too heavy and/or the percentage of reducer is more than the decals can tolerate and/or the second coat is applied to soon and/or too heavy etc..

A “heavy” coat of clear can EASILY run on surfaces that are not flat, especially if it is done as a first coat instead of being done over an initial light “tack” coat.


DECAL APPLICATION- In m y experience, decals typically adhere better if the surface they are applied to is abraded lightly with fine sandpaper like around 1000 grit or gray scotch brite. If this is not done, the clear has a greater potential to cause the decal to lift.


DECAL PREP – Not all decals are created equal. Some decals benefit from being abraded lightly with a used gray scotch brite pad. This helps the clear to adhere, thereby reducing the potential for it to run.


CLEAR TYPES – Urethane is a common clear to use over stickers. I would not use lacquer. There are clears that do not use reducer.


As I mentioned in my previous post, you have done a very nice job on your bike and I also know how long this type of detail work takes. I am also guessing that some of the decals might not have been easy to come by or cheap. Irregardless, I am simply trying to help and would hate for your hard work to get damaged when clearing over the decals. It’s really that simple.mo

[riverrat]

I would be worried about having paint on plastic, even if there is a sticker underneath. Paint on atv plastic never works out too good.

[Mr. Clean]

These are fiberglass fenders and can be painted and clear coated with or without decals applied.

rg97 keep up the good work, I am done here.

I would be worried about having paint on plastic, even if there is a sticker underneath. Paint on atv plastic never works out too good.

[rg97]

I would be worried about having paint on plastic, even if there is a sticker underneath. Paint on atv plastic never works out too good.

I would show you the underside of the fenders (there is no coat there and they are black fiberglass) but I dont have my camera right now. They are fiberglass with a white coat over them. This is not your usual "atv plastic"