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Thread: Honda 110--what to check???

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    --
    95

    Honda 110--what to check???

    I have the book, but need some help:

    bike was running fine. No issues. Started first pull...life was good.

    WAs riding it up a hill, on a dirt road, so not a big hill.

    so here is what happened. The bike started to loose power. no smoke or anything.

    so I down shifted, thinking I was in too high of a gear...same thing but that's what it felt like..

    It would start and wouldn't pull it's own weigh then died.

    I have a title for this machine, got a nice honda rack for it, newer plastics.... so I really don't want to can it.

    I am going to replace the carb (took it apart and lost the little "c" for the needle) it's a chinese knock off that worked great.

    Was thinking this might be related to the CDI...pickup thingy, etc.... Any one use a replacement for these?

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    MN
    --
    3,263
    I would check compression on it, it might have lost power due to losing compression. Wouldnt be the first time i saw that, but generally it will also smoke some as well due to oil getting past the rings, but it could be a bad valve as well.
    ---------------------------------------------------------
    1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
    1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
    1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    OHIO
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    2,857
    Start with the small things. Take the carb apart and clean it and when you think it is clean.....clean it one more time. Make sure to get a wire into all the orifices and that they are clear. Do you use an inline fule filter?? Make sure the fuel is getting out of the tank to the carb as well, may have rust in it?? There is a filter on some of the feul petcocks as well that may need cleaned...... KB ^^^^^^ in the above post has a link to the manuals that may help you.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    chicago il
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    505
    I would start with carb as well but while you have it off, do a compression test on motor before you spend anymore money. that e-clip can be gotten at any hardware store. make sure you check for good flow from the tank. I have had rocks and rust clog the lines. Does sound like compression to me as well though. I am sure it was good and hot, and if it was a little on the lean side, lugging it out on a hill is enough to melt it down quick. but I hope that's not the case. normally when electrics go, they just go, and the motor dies.
    Trikes: All Honda: 84 250r, 85 86 and 87 250sx, 84 and 85 125m, 79 82 84 and 85 110's, 73 us 90 and 77 atc90, 75 atc70
    Cycles: Honda: 71 cb100, 78 cb750 coming soon cb750 trike. Yamaha: 67 yds 3 (250cc, 2cyl, 2 stroke), 82 750 SECA
    Other toys: Chenoweth VW sandrail dune buggy, old race go kart, racing mower, 76 Arctic Cat Pantera 440 snowmobile

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    --
    95
    thanks for the replies...I will go get the clip from the hardware store...

    I really hope it's not compression...I just rebuilt that damn thing...son of a......................................

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
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    3,014
    What year are we talking about? I immediately thought points but you mentioned cdi. Can you confirm the year?
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

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    1983 Honda Z50

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Wisconsin
    --
    521
    Check the plug? My 110 likes to foul the plugs out every once in a while.
    1985 Auto X lots of upgrades
    1982 Honda 185s 3inch wheel spacers, bassani exhaust
    2001 400ex
    1983 110

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    --
    95
    Well, I got a compression tester, it didn't fit the hole...dammit....

    To clarify, this is CDI motor...the head jug etc...is from a points motor...but essentially it is a bunch of parts.

    So, I started with the electrical system. I pulled the plug and it looked fine, but I pulled the cord with it out, no spark.

    I tried a nail, per the book, no spark, I then pulled the plug from my 200m which is fine, but no spark...

    So, I don't want to dump and ton of money in this, but with no spark, no running.

    The trouble shooting in my 200 manual said weak spark would cause loss of power.

    The wiring on this thing sucks, at best....the headlight and taillight don't work. I really need a simplified wiring schematic too if anyone can hook me up.

    The cdi sealed box looks like it was supposed to have 6 prongs, but only 5 are there???

    More thoughts? thinking of buying some parts of amazon.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    --
    95
    well, I just had an ah-ha moment, the kill switch was off...big fat blue spark, despite the mess of wiring...So I am thinking it has to be the top end...


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Wisconsin
    --
    521
    Lol, Mine had great spark but I could never get it to run. Everything tested ok, I replaced the stator coil on a guess from some tips on here and it started right up after I changed it.
    1985 Auto X lots of upgrades
    1982 Honda 185s 3inch wheel spacers, bassani exhaust
    2001 400ex
    1983 110

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    MN
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    3,263
    The wiring diagram in the manual is about as simplified as it gets, and is honestly quite simple! As for the CDI, yes its a 5 pin CDI, they just used a 6 pin connector.
    ---------------------------------------------------------
    1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
    1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
    1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    --
    95
    I am going to check the compression on it.

    IF it's sparking blue (which is what it supposed to do) what will changing the stator coil gain me?

    There is also a guy who is local with a running 110, but it has no title...for 170.....maybe I will see if I can work with him?

    What kind of compression tester do I need? the one my buddy lent me was too big for the spark plug hole.

  13. #13
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    minnesota
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    5,911
    Quote Originally Posted by diesel View Post
    IF it's sparking blue (which is what it supposed to do) what will changing the stator coil gain me?

    I am going to check the compression on it. What kind of compression tester do I need? the one my buddy lent me was too big for the spark plug hole.
    cheap gauges are often off by 20 lbs. a good gauge is around 100.00. one with a short small hose is best.

    if you have blue spark it should be fine.

    look at the plug after trying to start it, if its wet it might be flooding, check the float level and check for a bad needle and seat on the floats.

    if the plug is dry after trying to start, it is not getting fuel. you can spray a shot of starting fluid or flammable brake cleaner in it to see if it runs then find the fuel prob. some people might suggest against the starting fluid etc.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    chicago il
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    505
    nothing wrong with the autozone $40 kit. it is the most expensive kit they have but it is the only one that has all the little adapters to fit various spark plug holes. they are very accurate as long as you do not drop them. they are also very useful as a cylinder leak down tester. you can remove the Schrader valve (like in tire valve stem) from the hose and thread into cylinder. instead of clipping on gauge you can hook up to air compressor regulated down to about 20 psi. hold the engine at TDC with a breaker bar and listen. Air escaping in intake or exhaust means you have a burnt valve, air will escape into crankcase past rings but if it is excessive you might have problems with piston or rings.

    another test you need to try is the airbox test. this will help determine if you are running too rich or lean. remove fenders and air box lid and filter. If it runs better with no air box lid then you are running too rich. if there is no change then try holding a few fingers over the intake hole, blocking a good portion of the air. if this makes it run better you are too lean.
    Trikes: All Honda: 84 250r, 85 86 and 87 250sx, 84 and 85 125m, 79 82 84 and 85 110's, 73 us 90 and 77 atc90, 75 atc70
    Cycles: Honda: 71 cb100, 78 cb750 coming soon cb750 trike. Yamaha: 67 yds 3 (250cc, 2cyl, 2 stroke), 82 750 SECA
    Other toys: Chenoweth VW sandrail dune buggy, old race go kart, racing mower, 76 Arctic Cat Pantera 440 snowmobile

    KEEP IT ON ALL 3 OR AT LEAST 2 AT A TIME

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