An uninteresting 200x thread

[barnett468]

POST CORRECTION





I have no edit button.

[redsox]

On the bright side....your math was right after all lol...its 3 hundredths clearance

i was really second guessing myself. thats what made me feel most like an idiot. i can handle the fact that the measurement may be inaccurate, but i thought AT LEAST i knew how to read the gauges. i'll get it measured right and go from there.


keep in mind, this engine ran GREAT prior to being taking it apart. the kicker shaft was the issue. it didn't even smoke. let me reiterate. RAN GREAT. the whole "swap" is so i don't have to split the cases. lets not panic till i get better measurements on what i have here. in fact, lets not panic at all!

[barnett468]

That's amazing.

One other thing you can do for your own interest, is take a piece of a manilla file folder around 1/2" wide x 1 1/2" long, stick around 3/4" of it in the bottom of the cylinder then install the piston.

If it goes past the paper easily it is very loose. You can measure the thickness of the paper to get a close number.

If you use 2 pieces of folder on top of each other and it goes past those well then...

Also, if it really is .030" clearance, the piston should have been rattling so loudly that a deaf person should have been able to hear it unless it had 90w gear oil in it, lol.

[barnett468]

oops. one more thing, with .030 clearance it should have a huge "ridge" in the top of the cylinder that you can easily feel with your finger however i could not see one in the photo but its hard to tell by that. you would feel it with your finger as i mentioned in a previous post.

[barnett468]

i just looked at the cylinder, you need to clean off a section of that clack carbon goo on the top of the cyl before you can tell if it has a ridge or not.

[redsox]

no ridge, the piston was tight, tight, tight in there before removal. i suspect i measured poorly on all counts. i aspire to be better. i think it best to ignore previous measurements until i get my Shite together. depending on work, i may be able to get better info today.

[barnett468]

Yeah that makes a LOT more sense, lol.

A piece of lined school paper used to be around .0025". If the piston is snug but not tight with that, it's a good sign. Two pieces on top of each other are around .005" [duh]. If its snug with that but still passes by with minimal force, then it may be out of round and tapered a bit too much to work. Again, this is obviously not exact, however, imo its a good indicator of whether you might need to start cutting back on the beverages and save some of that money for a new piston and bore.

[DohcBikes]

And Barnett.....are you in here telling people to measure clearance with paper again lol...isnt it about time for bed?

[barnett468]

And Barnett.....are you in here telling people to measure clearance with paper again lol...isnt it about time for bed?

Uhm, at the risk of sounding unkind and condescending, after redsox's most recent posts it seemed like it might be a more fool proof tool for him to use.

And Barnett...isnt it about time for bed?

Since this is a "family friendly" site, I am unfortunately unable to answer this question in a manner that I feel it is worthy of.

...sarcasm and hilarity will be greatly rewarded...

PS - Do you know if I can report my own posts?

[redsox]

Inside telescopic bore gauges and a micrometer set as well are the only way to do it.

i got ahold of the right tools, my friend.

Uhm, at the risk of sounding unkind and condescending, after redsox's most recent posts it seemed like it might be a more fool proof tool for him to use.

come on. cut the kid some slack. making the most of what i got. i used the best measuring tool i had on hand. i couldn't have been more than a few inches off. i could have sent some pics of the ol' 25' stanley tape, or, measured in furlongs, or rods.

[Dirtcrasher]

I'll still gladly help you to read micrometers which are the right tool. If you know how to read them, any regular micrometer (screw digital, I drop stuff!!) you can read TENTHS of a THOUSANDTH of an INCH.

Simple decimal points.

.1000 - 1 tenth of an inch.
.0100 - 100 thousandths of an inch.
.0010 - 1 thousandth of an inch (3 decimal points)
.0001 - 1 tenth of 1 thousandth of an inch. Thats really really small.

Call me anytime bud....

[Mudduck]

omg that freaking funny

Funny lookin' kid, ain't he? Don't let his boyish good looks fool you. He speaks 6 languages, is one hell of an opera singer, and can tune a banjo in under 4 seconds. he once won a slam dunk contest by accident.

NO progress today boys. 8-10 powder. sick of it!! more to come tomorrow after work. sorry.

[redsox]

let me apologize to all for my lack of progress. part of the reason for this thread was to motivate progress and avoid long delays. if youre taking the time to read this and offer help then the least i can do is contribute on my end. Got an inside bore gauge last week. Works been crazy and the bride wrecked the new truck a bit (no one hurt) so i've been unable t get to the fun. after a little lesson on how to use the gauge, i measured the top, approximate center, and bottom of the tube. Gauge is in mm.

Top- 65.0099
Mid- 65.0299
Bot- 64.9991

so. you guys are correct. i need a bore and a piston. this is an unforeseen development, but its in my lap now. gotta get it done. this is new ground for me so there are a few questions.
What should the bore cost?

Are people sending their stuff out or going local? i have some connections locally that i will explore, but i'm curious about who does what, and where.

I think i'll go with the whole top end kit from G+H. Seems like a good price, all made in Japan.

Is honing something i'll still need to do or is that unnecessary with the bore?

thanks for the help, sorry again for the delay. this is truly becoming a Massachusetts project. Behind schedule and over budget.

[barnett468]

Hello redsox;


Bummer about troubles.

Ok, its been a while.

Do you want stock compression or higher than stock compression?

Do you want to run 87 89 or 93 octane?

Can you get E85 corn gas?

Is the piston a Shindy?

The Shindy’s are good as I and possibly others mentioned. They are made by ART which is an OEM piston supplier, which is a good thing.

The bore place will do the final hone, just clean the heck out of it after. I would use the method I previously described. Any local shop should be able to handle it. I would make sure they have a wet stone machine hone, not a cheapo or a hand help one. The cost might be around $60.00.

They might be less than amused if you bring it to them all grungy, lol.



OK, now for assembly and break in…I’m getting ready to duck.

I would NOT use synthetic oil. I would use std non synthetic motorcycle oil. Valvoline is available at most auto stores. Joe Gibbs break in oil is good but needs to be changed quickly.

I use a thin coat of the engine oil, others do something different. If the engine is going to sit for a few weeks or more before start up I use engine or ring assembly oil.

I typically let them idle high for 3, 15 minute cycles with a fan blowing on them before riding.

If you want further break in suggestions just ask, I’m sure you’ll get lots of good info.

[barnett468]

CYL/PISTON CLEARANCE - Shindy says to use OEM specs. I think DohcBikes has them. I would probably bore it to around .0015” and the ring gap should be ok as is but I would check it and use around .012”.

The more clearance you give things, the closer they are to being worn out.