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Thread: 1983 ATC 110 ticking noise

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Holland, MI
    --
    30
    Quote Originally Posted by barnett468 View Post
    Hello kbags948;


    Ok, well I do not think your ticking is caused by excessive ignition timing. This is mainly because it would be extremely rare for the bike to start easily AND have some much timing advance that it would cause detonation at IDLE.

    That being said, it is a good suggestion to check it since it should be done as part of regular maintenance plus I’m guessing you have no idea what it is currently set at.

    I clean off the F mark on the flywheel, put a line of white out on it, then use a timing lite in a dimly lit area to see it easily. If the F mark lites up in the correct location, your timing is fine, if not, set it properly.

    The chain, rollers and tensioner are all available new from the site below. http://partzilla.com might also have them and the price will be cheaper.

    If the tensioner roller looks heavily worn I would replace it.

    TIMING CHAIN – I would but D. I. D., Wiesco or orig Honda only. There are chains for around 30% less however the chain is a critical part and if it breaks it will make you and your engine very, very, unhappy. It’s also best to replace the timing gears along with the chain, otherwise the chain will wear prematurely.

    Tensioner p/n 14500-098-020, $52.00

    http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-atc110-19...n_14500096020/


    Chain and tensioner parts fiche.

    http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-atc110-19...5.html#results
    Ok. Thanks a bunch. I'll get right on checking the timing using your method above. If my timing is off slightly would that make it run rough at wide open? By rough I mean miss and pop. Also, could a stretched (worn out) cam chain cause the timing to be off even when the base timing ("O" on gear and "V" in head) are spot on?

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Pacific NW
    --
    4,255
    Quote Originally Posted by kbags948 View Post
    Ok. Thanks a bunch. I'll get right on checking the timing using your method above. If my timing is off slightly would that make it run rough at wide open? By rough I mean miss and pop. Also, could a stretched (worn out) cam chain cause the timing to be off even when the base timing ("O" on gear and "V" in head) are spot on?
    Pls forgive if this has been addressed..wrong glasses but:
    I've had trouble with the spark advance plate on the older 90/110 models.
    Typically under the cover that says "cdi".or points cover on the head.

    round plate is supposed to rotate with 2 pen type spring that can break.
    and rotates a little to advance the spark and doesn't always return.
    Usually full of red rustdust.
    Just a thought if you're going through all aaspectc of your timing.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Holland, MI
    --
    30
    Hello guys,

    I'm back after some time off from riding and wrenching on my 110. Last winter I spend a considerable amount of time going through each of the suggested fixes/checks mentioned in this thread. I went through the timing assembly top to bottom and replaced the chain, sprocket, guide rollers, push rod end cap, springs, and chain tensioner assembly. Before that I lapped in a new intake valve and replaced the springs. I also replaced the clutch fibers and springs. A top end and all new gaskets. It starts with one or two pulls nearly every time. I installed (although I didn't want to) a new "knock off" carb because my genuine Keihin was in rough shape. It sometimes jumps around at idle, but for the most part it does the job. After all is said and done, I still have that god awful ticking sound. With everything that I've done and checked and re-checked, I can't pinpoint what it could be. Anyone have any ideas?

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    snyder texas
    --
    456
    not familiar with the 110 setup but out of curiosity does the tick go away as you increase RPM or does it continue throughout entire throttle range? wonder if it could be thrust wear at crank or maybe cam others could most likely share info on this possibility better than me
    you know whats right therefore you know what is expected

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    South Florida
    --
    6,811
    Post up a video of it running . A tick is usually top end related and a knock is most likely the crank .


    Quote Originally Posted by kbags948 View Post
    Hello guys,

    I'm back after some time off from riding and wrenching on my 110. Last winter I spend a considerable amount of time going through each of the suggested fixes/checks mentioned in this thread. I went through the timing assembly top to bottom and replaced the chain, sprocket, guide rollers, push rod end cap, springs, and chain tensioner assembly. Before that I lapped in a new intake valve and replaced the springs. I also replaced the clutch fibers and springs. A top end and all new gaskets. It starts with one or two pulls nearly every time. I installed (although I didn't want to) a new "knock off" carb because my genuine Keihin was in rough shape. It sometimes jumps around at idle, but for the most part it does the job. After all is said and done, I still have that god awful ticking sound. With everything that I've done and checked and re-checked, I can't pinpoint what it could be. Anyone have any ideas?
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  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Holland, MI
    --
    30
    I believe the noise is most prominent at idle. Once you're riding and running through the gear box it sounds ok. I'll try and post a video. Can I do so directly to this thread?

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Holland, MI
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    30

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Wherever I May Roam
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    3,757
    What are you setting the valves at? Dont know the spec for a 110 but it sounds like the clearance on your exhaust valve is pretty loose.

    Did you check the tolerance on the rocker shaft?

    I've built a few engines that ran excellent and still do to this day, but just ticked loudly and there was nothing really wrong with them.

    What kind of oil are you running?

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Holland, MI
    --
    30
    The Clymer manual that I have says to set the valves between .005 - .007. I just checked them the other day and they were still within tolerance. Maybe a little closer to .007 but I didn't think that would be an issue. Do you think I should tighten them a little bit based on what you heard? I didn't check the tolerance on the rocker shaft. Do you recommend I do that? I've been running Valvoline 20W 50.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    snyder texas
    --
    456
    When seting valve lash was that .005-.007 mm or thousandths used?? Guess why i thought of that
    you know whats right therefore you know what is expected

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Holland, MI
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    30
    .005 - .007 in (thousandths)

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    snyder texas
    --
    456
    Pretty sure you need to use mm on these quite a bit of difference from metric and standard
    you know whats right therefore you know what is expected

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Holland, MI
    --
    30
    I've never heard that. The manual recommends the spec in both mm and in, but it's still the same clearance. I have standard (in) feeler gauges so that's what I used. My 2009 Honda CRF450 gives the spec in inches also.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    snyder texas
    --
    456
    you are so right had my numbers mixed up (should have looked it up first) it sucks getting old memory is not what it used to be lol my apologies
    you know whats right therefore you know what is expected

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