110 clutch...splitting cases

[diesel]

So after the debacle of dropping the circlip in the cam chain, I got the cover off, and it was there. I too the clutch side case off and it wasn't there.

Knowing my luck, especially with this trike, I have to split the cases and make sure it isn't there.

I have the book, any tips or tricks to get the clutch off and split the cases.

This is a whole teardown now....lol...most likely to not find the damn thing. I got a new cam chain, gaskets, anything else that isn't high dollar that I should replace while its open?

[diesel]

FWIW, when the bike still had both cases on, I filled the crankcase full of gas and tried to flush it out.

[tri again]

I'd fish a little with a neodymium magnet.
About a buck each locally and a pencil eraser (or double) sized
will darn near pick up a framing claw .
Maybe even cover it with a box and blast it with compressed air?
since you have it rinsed out?
I also put those magnets on all my drain plugs. ..about 5 bucks for 20
on ebay

[Badbmwbrad]

There are 2 special tools required for clutch removal. The first tool is a clutch basket holder tool which holds the clutch outer housing stationary while the clutch hub nut is unscrewed with the second special tool (a spanner socket having four dogs).

As a substitute for the clutch holder, find a solid copper penny and jam it into the meshed gear teeth (primary gear and clutch gear teeth interface). The copper must be annealed to soften it and you could heat it cherry red with a torch to anneal it. A crude substitute for the clutch nut spanner socket is a cold chisel. It will make a mess of the clutch hub nut and you won't be able to gage the correct tightening torque.

I have the book, any tips or tricks to get the clutch off and split the cases.

This is a whole teardown now....lol...most likely to not find the damn thing. I got a new cam chain, gaskets, anything else that isn't high dollar that I should replace while its open?

[big yeller]

Id defiantly try to wash that thing out with diesel to get it out. The last three clutch jobs I did on Hondas I just used a impact to get the nut off and no clutch holder was needed if you have some one there to hold the basket or stick a screw driver between the gears but then again a clutch holder is like 20 bucks or you can make one out of flat metal.. Now you will need a large 3 jaw puller to get the centrifugal clutch off if its like a big red/foreman/rancher as its a tight fit. But if want to tear it apart it would hurt to put a fresh set of rings on it and lap the valves.

[diesel]

Well when I flushed it originally, there was some clutch ( I think) that washed out. I have another clutch for it, so I am going to pull it and check.

My thought is that I have it down this far, might as well make sure and clean/inspect everything else. This bike has been a giant PITA since I got it.

The end measurements/head were in great shape...reading other posts, and what happened to the trike, I think the clutch was the problem..

it would start but wouldn't pull any weight...we were going up a hill (my son and I) and it just started to bog down, I downshifted, no better....until it wouldn't move at all...

[Mr. Clean]

Damn Geoff, full tear down. So when I need to rebuild my 110 your phones going to be ringing off the hook!!!

[diesel]

Damn Geoff, full tear down. So when I need to rebuild my 110 your phones going to be ringing off the hook!!!

s
Not a problem Mike...I am having a hard time getting the screws off so I can access that nut. My hand impact bits are fubar..

Any tricks on getting those out?

[lokisbuddy]

If you don't feel like buying clutch socket you can make one by cutting one out of a 13/16 impact socket.

[diesel]

Not talking about the clutch nut just yet...talking about the cover that goes over the clutch nut..there are two flathead screws...

[lokisbuddy]

Try using a torch to heat the area around them up then get them out if that don't work I usually just drill and use an easy out but be very careful if you take that route to get the hole dead nuts centered in the bolt. also when replacing I wouldn't go with Philips or flat if not hex go with allen or torx

[Badbmwbrad]

The clutch cover has two flat head screws of the Phillips head variety. FWIW, I used a Sears Craftsman impact driver; of which the screwdriver bits fit perfectly in the clutch cover's Phillips heat screws. One of the Craftsman bits fit perfectly into the clutch cover screws.

Note - Unlike a Harbor Freight impact driver's screw bits, a Craftsman impact driver comes with very good quality screwdriver bits which don't easily break.

Perhaps you can purchase the Craftsman impact driver bits separately?

PS If there is a little dimple indentation mark on the face of a Phillips head screw then this means the screw head is JASO specification then the best fit screwdriver bit will come from a JASO spec Phillips head screwdriver.

Not talking about the clutch nut just yet...talking about the cover that goes over the clutch nut..there are two flat head screws...

[barnett468]

Perhaps you can purchase the Craftsman impact driver bits separately?

You can buy bits individually at, Sears, Home Depot, True Value Hardware [Scottsdale road], tool supply stores, swap meets [maybe Glendale school near the stadium], Industrial hardware supply stores [north 71st st by Scottsdale rd and shea].

[big yeller]

I'm like the other guy I just drill them out when they do that to me lol. But the main thing is to have fun rebuilding little booger!