200x carb rebuild time

[Birddog85]

So here's where I'm at as of now.
1984 200x
Fresh rebuild on mill with .060 over stock replacement piston
DG exhaust, straight thru muffler
Strong spark with new NGK plug

The issues im having are
1 no idle. No adjustments have any effect at the screw either
2 no top end power.

I got her into the shed and pulled the carb. It was fairly clean but there was some gunk in the bowl.
The slide needle was set at the very top notch.
My main jet is a 120 and the slow jet is a 58 (!!).
There's a lot of black soot on the rear rack next to the "muffler".

Im searching other carb threads but any advice is welcome.
Thanks all!

[DohcBikes]

Pilot jet is waaaaaaaaaaayyy too big. Start with a 40.

Main jet is probablyo big as well, I would start with a 112 or 115.

Do this and be much happier.

Verify float height. Stock mix screw setting is (I think, don't persecute me if I'm remembering the wrong year) 1-3/4 turns out.

If you need more carb specs let me know and I'll look them up to be sure.

[Liquid-Darkness]

The "slide needle" at the very top notch, is that not a bit lean? Is it supose to be on the second from the top notch? Use to have an 84 200X. My first bike, I loved that thing..

[DohcBikes]

Yes that's normally a bit "lean" but not if your main is rich. He was likely trying to tune out the richness by leaning the needle setting.

Try my suggestions.

Then set the carb to factory settings, other than the main jetting, to start.

[barnett468]

I'm extremely familiar with the 200x manual, I sleep with it within reach.(not kidding).

If you need more carb specs let me know and I'll look them up to be sure.

Since DohcBikes is apparently intimately familiar with the manual but for some reason doesn't appear to have gotten around to the actual reading aspect of it yet, I looked up the OEM specs for you.





If that is the orig carb, the manual says it should say PD62B on the side of the main body.

Float level 14 mm or .55”

Pilot screw start at 2 ¼

Main jet – 108.

Pilot jet 40.

Needle clip is 4th groove from top which is irrelevant since your bike is not stock.

If you are at sea level I would go up 1 for the .060” bore [110], 1 for the ex pipe [112, one for good luck [115]. If you are above around 3000 ft I would go back down to the 112. Hey, same as DohcBikes.


Free online manual. Might take up to 7 minutes to load.

http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manual...vicemanual.pdf


I would do the following gas level test which eliminates the need to check the float level and is more accurate. It should also be done PRIOR to jetting.

GAS LEVEL CHECK

1. get a small 10” long piece of clear plastic tube.
2. connect it to the float bowl drain fitting.
3. hold it close to the carb with the open end even with the top of the carb.
4. open the gas valve on the tank and drain screw on the carb bowl.
5. the gas in the tube should be from even with the bottom of the main carb body to 3/16” below it. If it is outside this range, I would correct it.


SPARK PLUG - I would start with a nrew one if it hasn't been mentioned. Check it after 30 minutes of riding for color.


What color is the plug?

white = lean

lite tan = ok

medium tan = ok

dark tan = slightly rich

dry black = too rich

moist gooey black = burning oil and possibly too rich.


HESITATION- If it burbles/sputters on acceleration it is rich, if it simply hesitates/"bogs" with no burble/sputter it is lean.

[barnett468]

If your gas is 3 months old or yellow, i would install new gas.

[DohcBikes]

Haha good one. The prob is that there's two carb specs in the manual and I didn't wanna list all the wrong ones if I had the year wrong in my head, which judging by the fuel screw setting, aparrently I did

Yet still got persecuted. Imagine that.

Hey, he's running rich

[barnett468]

Yet still got persecuted. Imagine that.

Hey, join the club. It wouldn't be 3wheeler world without it!

Hey, he's running rich

Ouch, stop that!

[yaegerb]

Clean the tank, install in-line filter, fresh gas, rebuild the carb, needle clip 3rd from top, 40 pilot and 110 main. After that you should be set.

[Birddog85]

Thanks for the help. I downloaded the manual for extra help.

Seems like the top end is back but.. She still won't idle. Unless the fuel is off.
Im thinking the float is too high or the needle isn't seating and she shoots a good 4' flame on overrun when the throttle shuts.

I don't see an adjustment for the float on this one. It's all plastic and the needle has a little spring loaded pin.
Aftermarket float maybe?

[DohcBikes]

So did you change the jets? If so, what jets did you install?

If not, what DID you change?

[Birddog85]

So did you change the jets? If so, what jets did you install?

If not, what DID you change?

I swapped in a 40 slow and left the 120. I moved the needle to 3 from the top.
If I let it idle with the fuel off it runs like a sewing machine. As soon as I turn it on it gets erratic and poppy.

[DohcBikes]

Now that's weird. How long does it take for it to shut off when the fuel is OFF and its running good?

By the way you are still rich on the main.

Also I would clean the entire carb. Yes again.

[DohcBikes]

And BTW, what do the tiny numbers on the side of your carb say? I'm wondering if you have a 200s float or needle in a 200x carb.

[barnett468]

The needle might have dirt nin it or might be leaking also.

i would do the following gas level test which eliminates the need to check the float level and is more accurate. It should also be done prior to jetting and with the gas on.

Gas level check

1. Get a small 10” long piece of clear plastic tube.
2. Connect it to the float bowl drain fitting.
3. Hold it close to the carb with the open end even with the top of the carb.
4. Open the gas valve on the tank and drain screw on the carb bowl.
5. The gas in the tube should be from even with the bottom of the main carb body to 3/16” below it. If it is outside this range, i would correct it.