How to trace lost spark?

[Ghostv2]

So I pulled out the trusty steed and she's gone limp.


Normally it's a one pull, no choke, idles perfectly and runs like a champ. Last year it ran bad towards the end of the season, wouldn't idle, die randomly, figured it was carb related since the tanks rusty and it might of sucked something up.

So I pulled the plug (which is brand new) sat it on the engine and got my brother to pull it and no spark. Carbs cleaned. Oils changed. I tried it all (this was before I knew it had no spark). Could it be a bad CDI? That was my guess. Nothing's out of the ordinary, like a wire pulled out.

So how do I trace the problem? I don't have he money to replace one thing after another.
On the plus side I start work on Friday, unemployed for a year and had back surgey so I layed in bed for 6 months. Can't wait to have money again considering I didn't qualify for any benifits.

[Honda_ATC]

Im having the same issue, however I have loads of parts so started by changing the plug first off, did not work so I moved to the coil, no luck, then changed the cdi (that NORMALLY) fixes it, but it did not so its the stator in my case there are ways of testing them, however I do not know them maybe someone will chime in and give me a lesson !!

[3wheelrider]

Find the harness coming out of the stator on the left side. At the connectors there will be a black wire with red stripe. Unplug it & check for VOLTAGE/OHMS from that wire with a voltmeter.(the end coming out of the case). Sounds like a dead stator-there are very cheap replacements- Sorry for your misfortunes-good luck to you..

[jeswinehart]

I would start right at the plug wire and go back up the system. Nearly all componets can be checked with one of these > https://www.google.com/search?q=mult...w=1265&bih=591
You should be able to get one of the anolog style (has needle that swings back and forth) and start with continuity testing spark plug cap, the wire itself, wire to cap and so on.
If you look around for manuals on the front page (I think that is where they are ?) you will get all the info for testing out each component with the multi meter.
Those run around 15 to 18 dollars most everywhere I have seen.
On a gut hunch (please don't go by my gut hunch though ),,,, I would suspect the coil over cdi or plug wire

john

[Ghostv2]

I'll look in the manual I have to see if tells me how to test each component. But when I do test do I unplug the wire then test it? Or would I have to leave it on to complete the circuit?
(I took carpentry in tech, not electrical lol)

[jeswinehart]

Yes, you will unplug it. It may be easier to remove the coil for testing too so it won't be ground to frame. Your manual will tell you, let us know what you find (please).

[3wheelrider]

No need to remove stator for testing. Really not necessary. For testing -one red lead of the tester to that wire & the other to ground on frame. For the stator removal (more than likely you will have to) you need a flywheel puller. Read the manual. Not too hard -you need to solder on the new exciter coil (stator). Just the top one.

[82 250r]

Maybe the stator...
also screw off the spark plug boot and check for corrosion.

[Frankencelery]

Yeah, I just went through this on my '85 200s, but I did it backwards. (more on that in a minute) The exciter coil should be the two wires that are in the same connector, if I remember correctly. Can someone correct me on that? I know the other coil is from the lone wire to engine case. Anyway the exciter coil measurement should be 200-250 ohms, and the lighting coil is only a few ohms. Jeswinehart is right that an analog meter is better for this, but you can do it with a digital as well. Also, if the ohms are correct, then you can set to AC Volts and pull the starter, and you should get a brief jump of voltage showing that the exciter is working. This is not an accurate test, by any means, but gives you some idea that it's not just open or shorted.

I went through this last week. Tested the stator, then the ignition coil, then the pulse generator, and finally replaced the CDI. Finally, I went back to the plug, which I hadn't given a second look, because it *looked* fine. The plug was completely open. New plug fixed me right up! So that's what NOT to do! Sheesh!

[Ghostv2]

It could very well be something simple as corrosion. It's been my dads since 85 until I started riding it a few years back. But it sat for 2/3rds of it's life probably. Half of it in a garage. It use to be pretty 5 or so years ago.

Point being is lack of maintence and recent years sitting under a tarp under the porch. But I don't think that's the case. Anywho , thanks for the tips everyone I will get to it either today if I don't go fishing or some other day I'm bored. No rush right now since I'm broke. More or less just tinkering because I have nothing to do.

[DohcBikes]

Don't forget the kill switch. It happens.