85 tecate questions and build

[emmie357]

Okay, so I got this 85 Tecate in December for $200, total basket case.

Top end was taken off, the wristpin dug into the side of the cylinder and the piston skirt was shattered (and piston installed backwards). The top end looked like it was off for years, all kinds of dust & oil in the crank. Previous owner said he had it for two years and never got to it. The guy he bought it off of said it sat for 5 plus. So I wanted to split the cases to replace all the seals and bearings. I slowly accumulated the parts for that and new top end. Picked up a stator, swinehart flywheel, stock pipe, few things here and there.

Eventually the engine was built and back in the trike, I ran it for a few minutes, didn't try to make it move because I had no brakes, and an old rusty chain. When the weather got nice, I started painting. Now the engine is back in, front brakes are on, new chain, chain slider, bearings replaced (Steering, front & rear wheels, swingarm, suspension. Now some minor problems.

1) I think I have an air leak. I had leak tested and thought I was ok. The only thing leaking was my tester lol. But it definitely wants to rev to the moon until I pull the choke... but it runs fine with the choke on. It was leaking at the exhaust, I removed the exhaust to see how I can address that, but would that cause an air leak? Also, I'm running stock jetting (260 main, 40 pilot) and 20:1 yamalube for break-in. The plug looks oily black and there is black oil spitting out of the exhaust. I think too much oil in the pre-mix? I was planning to tone it down after running a tank or two through. Is it true that too much oil can cause a lean condition (as there is less gas to burn)?

I'll be trying to build a better leak down tester tomorrow... maybe I'll find an air leak. I'm also giving the carb another good cleaning. I had cleaned and drained it, but then it sat for a month or two, and it was real nasty to start with.

2) I have clutch problems. When I reassembled the clutch, the plates were still oily so I didn't soak them, just rubbed a little fresh oil on them. Re-assembled per the manual. Now the clutch will not engage. After sitting for awhile yesterday It moved about 10 yards before it lost power. Then today when I got home from work it actually went about a hundred yards before losing power trying to get it into second. If I raise the back end off the ground the wheels will spin pretty good in first and second... and pulling the clutch lever didn't want to stop them all the way. I'm kinda stumped on this one... I think I need new fiber plates, but am not sure why pulling the clutch didn't completely stop the wheels from spinning. Even with the cable fully tightened.

Well, here are some pics of the progress, I have to snap some new ones with the plastics on and the new seat cover. Please chime in on the 2 issues...

[jeswinehart]

If you can get it running (choke on or how ever) you can check a lot of the easier to find air leak by spraying carb cleaner around intake boot area and if it dies out when doing so,,, there is a problem in that area.
Your exhaust leak won't effect much of anything excepting making a mess on the head pipe. I am basically a warm weather Tecate rider.
I recall reading tecates came new with a handful of jets for different temps and altitudes. For warm to hot humid weather in Michigan I noted to use a 270 main, #30 pilot and clip fourth from the top to run best on my particular set up which now is not to far off from a basic stock 84/85 engine. I do run my mix a wee bit on the thin side (100+ to 1 Amsoil) but dam sure don't want to turn this into a freaking oil thread, it is what works for me in anything 2 stroke)
Black oily goop coming out the tail pipe is unburnt fuel, most likely having a hard time with fouling plugs ?
My Tecate clutchs take forever to work properly, just figured that is the way they are. Both have got to be very warmed up before dropping into gear with out "power braking". Not sure if right or wrong but something I can live with.

[emmie357]

I should add I sprayed starting fluid all around the intake boot, head gasket, and base gasket. It didn't make it rev up.
It's hasn't ran long, so no plug fowling yet. The plug looks pretty clean, just a little oily (no black deposits).

I'm afraid to check the crank seals, as they were replaced, but would need a complete teardown to re-replace... but I'll get there after the leak test if needed.

[jeswinehart]

Well IMO your going about it with thought + process correctly. It went 10 yards, then 100 yards,,,, it sound like it needs the "crap" rode out of it !

[jb2wheels]

Well IMO your going about it with thought + process correctly. It went 10 yards, then 100 yards,,,, it sound like it needs the "crap" rode out of it !

True - Tecates are made to be whipped! In 48 hours I'll be flogging mine in the OK dunes!

That red frame looks great - I thought about doing it to mine but couldn't commit.

Do you have an air filter in the box? If not, that might be throwing off your mixture.

The last 2-stroke I saw with a death-rev was an 85 or 86 250R and it was missing a couple of cylinder to case nuts and you could see daylight where the base gasket was supposed to be. They fixed it in the campground with a used gasket and ran it the rest of the weekend without issues!

All 3 of my Tecates' clutches dragged and 2 were grabby as all heck even with fresh plates. The clutch in my red 85 is not grabby but does drag when cold.
What gear oil are you using?

[barnett468]

Hello emmie;


I would do a gas level check and compression test with a high quality non harbor freight type gauge with the throttle wide open in addition to the leak down test you are planning.


GAS LEVEL TEST

1. get a small 10” long piece of clear plastic tube.
2. connect it to the float bowl drain fitting.
3. hold it close to the carb with the open end even with the top of the carb.
4. open the gas valve on the tank and drain screw on the carb bowl.
5. the gas in the tube should be from even with the bottom of the main carb body to 3/16” below it. If it is outside this range, I would correct it.

Okay, so I got this 85 Tecate in December for $200, total basket case.

Top end was taken off, the wristpin dug into the side of the cylinder and the piston skirt was shattered (and piston installed backwards). The top end looked like it was off for years, all kinds of dust & oil in the crank. Previous owner said he had it for two years and never got to it. The guy he bought it off of said it sat for 5 plus.

I wanted to split the cases to replace all the seals and bearings.

Did you do this?

If not, how did you clean all the metal out of the rod and crank bearings?

I slowly accumulated the parts for that and new top end.

What did you use for a cyl, piston and rings.

Were parts new or used?

Did you measure the cyl bore for roundness and taper?

did you measure the piston for wear?

did you check the piston to cylinder clearance?

did you install new rings and check the end gap?

I think I have an air leak. I had leak tested and thought I was ok. The only thing leaking was my tester lol. But it definitely wants to rev to the moon until I pull the choke... but it runs fine with the choke on.

How can you do a leak test with a leak tester that leaks?

I would do it again with a tester that does not leak.

Make sure your throttle cable has free play and the slide drops all the way with the throttle off.




QUOTE=emmie357;1306355]It was leaking at the exhaust, ...would that cause an air leak?[/quote]No, however, if the leak was huge, it will cause a substantial reduction in power .

…there is black oil spitting out of the exhaust.

I think there is a drain bolt on the bottom of the silencer if it is stock. I would remove it and see if anything drains out and run it without the bolt for a few minutes to see what happens.

Also, I'm running stock jetting (260 main, 40 pilot) and 20:1 yamalube for break-in. The plug looks oily black…

Oily black plug is oil not excessive fuel, however, it may be rich in addition to getting excessive oil in it.

The plug looks pretty clean, just a little oily (no black deposits).

Your plug is no longer black like you said it was?

Did you change anything?

A rich oil to gas mix will create white smoke and the plug will look oily or wt when removed and this wetness will not dry up if it is oil. If it is gas it will instantly dry up from the heat of the plug.

Is your cylinder ported?

Is your carb stock?

Is your exhaust pipe stock?

Are you using the original silencer?

I suggest trying it with no silencer or a std straight through one if you have the stock silencer or any spark arrestor type silencer. It might be plugged, squirrels might have put nuts in it. This is what happened to one guy here and it took around 90 posts on his thread before he found out it was a plugged muffler, lol.

I think too much oil in the pre-mix?
I was planning to tone it down after running a tank or two through.

It is not too much oil in the premix. If the plug is oily, it is trans oil from the clutch side seal or leaking center cases, however you are safe changing your ratio to 28:1 for now.

Is it true that too much oil can cause a lean condition (as there is less gas to burn)?

True, but not by a large amount. If your bike is PROPERLY jetted at 32:1 and go to 20:1, I would suggest going up 1 size on the main just to be safe then do plug readings and jet as necessary.

I'll be trying to build a better leak down tester tomorrow.

you can buy a cheap radiator pressure tester with a built in gauge from many big chain auto stores.

I have clutch problems. When I reassembled the clutch, the plates were still oily so I didn't soak them, just rubbed a little fresh oil on them. Re-assembled per the manual. Now the clutch will not engage.

Then your plates are wasted, it’s that simple, however it is EXTREMELY unlikely for a clutch to be worn so bad that it fails to move a bike forward. If it is then there should have been obvious signs of heavy wear or missing plates. There is a spec in the manual for the thickness of the plates.

If they are in spec and none are missing, you can sand the metal plates with 400 wet/dry sand paper using water or WFD40.

After sitting for awhile yesterday It moved about 10 yards before it lost power. Then today when I got home from work it actually went about a hundred yards before losing power

what do you mean exactly?

Did the engine slow down?

Did it move forward and then the clutch started to slip badly allowing the engine to rev up?

trying to get it into second.

What do you meant by “trying”?

Does it shift or not?

Is it hard to shift?

If I raise the back end off the ground the wheels will spin pretty good in first and second... and pulling the clutch lever didn't want to stop them all the way.

If your clutch is bad it will not work well enough to accelerate over 400 lbs, however, it will be able to spin the rear tires when they are off the ground.

The fact that the tires still spin in the air with the clutch in is not a prob. If the clutch was good but the bike still crept forward when it was pulled in with the engine warm there would be a problem.

What tans oil are you using?

I would use motorcycle oil, like 20w-50 valvoline motorcycle oil because it is not only decent oil but it is sold in most auto parts stores so it is easy to find if there is not a motorcycle shop near you. Motorcycle oils are designed for motorcycle clutches.
If your clutch squeels and chatters if you let it out slowly then bit is working properly.

I should add I sprayed starting fluid all around the intake boot, head gasket, and base gasket. It didn't make it rev up.

sounds like a seal or case leak to me then.



Here’s my avatar. I named her Bacon. Isn’t she cute?

Hi, my name is Bacon Aren't I cute.

[nd4speed]

You could upload pictures of your clutch lever and a picture of the position of the clutch actuator arm.

I had clutch adjustment issues and found a previous owner installed a random small ball bearing between clutch push rods. Hopefully you got all the right parts in there.

I would back off on the oil in the premix. I have run 32:1 for years but it is all about the jetting,

Clutch drag is common. But are you sure your loss of power is not just you are running so rich or lean that the motor just falls flat and dos not rev and produces no power?

High rev? Air screw turns? Your idle screw turned all the way out? or all the way in?

20:1 will run lean. The mix is heavier and does not flow and allows more air to enter. 20:1 will make ring seal better and raise compression and when jetted properly for a lean high oil condition you will not foul plugs but produce more power than a 50:1 or 100:1 premix ratio.

[emmie357]

Hello emmie;


I would do a gas level check and compression test with a high quality non harbor freight type gauge with the throttle wide open in addition to the leak down test you are planning.


GAS LEVEL TEST

1. get a small 10” long piece of clear plastic tube.
2. connect it to the float bowl drain fitting.
3. hold it close to the carb with the open end even with the top of the carb.
4. open the gas valve on the tank and drain screw on the carb bowl.
5. the gas in the tube should be from even with the bottom of the main carb body to 3/16” below it. If it is outside this range, I would correct it.

Compression seems good, but I should be able to borrow a tester. I'll try the gas test, Would a low level cause a lean condition?

Did you do this?

If not, how did you clean all the metal out of the rod and crank bearings?

I did split the cases, and installed new "all balls" crank bearings and seals. Did not replace the big end bearing through, it was tight with no up-down play, and looked clean.

What did you use for a cyl, piston and rings.

Were parts new or used?

Did you measure the cyl bore for roundness and taper?

did you measure the piston for wear?

did you check the piston to cylinder clearance?

did you install new rings and check the end gap?

Installed a new weisco piston, rings, and top end bearing. Cylinder was used, but stock bore and the nick-plating was in good shape. Didn't get the cylinder measured, but it was a good tight fit and I couldn't get a feeler gauge past the rings. Ring end gaps weren't measured, but the ring ends were lines up correctly in the notches, and on either side of the intake port.

How can you do a leak test with a leak tester that leaks?

I would do it again with a tester that does not leak.

Make sure your throttle cable has free play and the slide drops all the way with the throttle off.

Not well apparently, it held air pressure for a few secs, as it dropped I spayed soapy water and the only place bubbling was the tester. Mostly from the bicycle pump that had some chew marks from a cat...

Oily black plug is oil not excessive fuel, however, it may be rich in addition to getting excessive oil in it.


Your plug is no longer black like you said it was?

Did you change anything?

A rich oil to gas mix will create white smoke and the plug will look oily or wt when removed and this wetness will not dry up if it is oil. If it is gas it will instantly dry up from the heat of the plug.

Is your cylinder ported?

Is your carb stock?

Is your exhaust pipe stock?

Are you using the original silencer?

I suggest trying it with no silencer or a std straight through one if you have the stock silencer or any spark arrestor type silencer. It might be plugged, squirrels might have put nuts in it. This is what happened to one guy here and it took around 90 posts on his thread before he found out it was a plugged muffler, lol.

Plug is black, but only oily black (for now), it hasn't run much. The black rubs right off, it's not all carbon build up... that's what I was trying to say. Stock carb with stock jetting, it was pretty dirty so I'm giving it the once over again. Pipe is stock with a new FMF Turbinecore 2 silencer. Porting looked the same as my junk cylinder, so I assume stock, unless both happen to be ported.

It is not too much oil in the premix. If the plug is oily, it is trans oil from the clutch side seal or leaking center cases, however you are safe changing your ratio to 28:1 for now.

This is what I am afraid of, I have an extra set of crank seals, but would need to split cases to replace them because of the lip behind (or in front of?) the seals.

Then your plates are wasted, it’s that simple, however it is EXTREMELY unlikely for a clutch to be worn so bad that it fails to move a bike forward. If it is then there should have been obvious signs of heavy wear or missing plates. There is a spec in the manual for the thickness of the plates.

If they are in spec and none are missing, you can sand the metal plates with 400 wet/dry sand paper using water or WFD40.

I think I have to remove the clutch cover... while I'm in there I'll spec the plates (didn't do that the first time) and check the crank seal on that side for a leak. I'm assuming I need new plates. I see most of the clutch kits also fit the bayou 220, I have an extra bayou engine laying around... I don't want to use used plates, but what are the chances of clutch baskets/springs/etc swapping if needed?

what do you mean exactly?

Did the engine slow down?

Did it move forward and then the clutch started to slip badly allowing the engine to rev up?


What do you meant by “trying”?

Does it shift or not?

Is it hard to shift?

Engine didn't slow down, just the momentum, like the clutch stopped grabbing.
It shifts fine just pushing it around, when I had it ripping across the yard I clutched in, shifted, and then let the clutch out, but it didn't grab again. Seemed to click into second just fine though.

If your clutch is bad it will not work well enough to accelerate over 400 lbs, however, it will be able to spin the rear tires when they are off the ground.

The fact that the tires still spin in the air with the clutch in is not a prob. If the clutch was good but the bike still crept forward when it was pulled in with the engine warm there would be a problem.

What tans oil are you using?

I would use motorcycle oil, like 20w-50 valvoline motorcycle oil because it is not only decent oil but it is sold in most auto parts stores so it is easy to find if there is not a motorcycle shop near you. Motorcycle oils are designed for motorcycle clutches.
If your clutch squeels and chatters if you let it out slowly then bit is working properly.

I'm using Valvoline 10w40 motorcycle oil. Same as I use in my blaster (please don't hate me cause I own a blaster lol)

Thanks for the help... I'll post some results.

[emmie357]

You could upload pictures of your clutch lever and a picture of the position of the clutch actuator arm.

I had clutch adjustment issues and found a previous owner installed a random small ball bearing between clutch push rods. Hopefully you got all the right parts in there.

I would back off on the oil in the premix. I have run 32:1 for years but it is all about the jetting,

Clutch drag is common. But are you sure your loss of power is not just you are running so rich or lean that the motor just falls flat and dos not rev and produces no power?

High rev? Air screw turns? Your idle screw turned all the way out? or all the way in?

20:1 will run lean. The mix is heavier and does not flow and allows more air to enter. 20:1 will make ring seal better and raise compression and when jetted properly for a lean high oil condition you will not foul plugs but produce more power than a 50:1 or 100:1 premix ratio.

I'll snap some pics of the actuator with the cable adjusted all the way out, and all the way in. Motor revs fine, even too much (revs up like a lean condition, then is hard to stop with the kill switch). It's a stock mikuni carb, no air screw... I thought that was strange, but The manual does not list one, nor does the parts diagram.

Oh, and I am running a new UNI filter, oiled up in the air box. I started with an vented airbox lid, but swapped to a closed one. Didn't seem to help.

[emmie357]

Okay so after a few setbacks I got the leak tester working without any leaks. The expansion plug in the exhaust kept shooting across the garage on me, scared me pretty good the first time it happened.
I also cleaned the carb again. I seem to have had an issue with the pilot jet. Jet was clean, but the passage out of the pilot jet (in the carb body) was blocked pretty good.

Runs okay now, except it does not return to idle quickly. I ordered a new throttle cable as the one that was on had a few kinks in it. Also ordered a new clutch cable, as I noticed a fray developed from taking the end on and off. Here are some pics of the actuator adjusted in, and out (clutch lever is not pulled in either pic):


Clutch is still not engaging, I'll remove the clutch cover this weekend and check that all over. Some other pics I took with the front fender, gas tank, and number plate on:

[barnett468]

Hello;


xlnt, thorough and entertaining answers. this helps considerably.


LEAK TEST - Ok, well did it leak?

How much did you pump it up to?

For how long?


GAS LEVEL - Its complicated but i like to make sure the things that are easy to correct first that should be corrected, be corrected before i search for other probs, because incorrect settings may be contributing to a prob i might be having. in other words, put in a new proper heat range plug, set the gas level in the carb, set the air mix screw [n/a on your carb] check timing in case some clown advanced it 50 degrees and do a pressure test.


EXHAUST COLOR - Does it smoke and if so what color is it, lite gray, very dark gray to black? black is too much fuel.


SPARK PLUG - Run the engine for a few, then post a photo, it's easier for us. It should not be black, your engine should be lean with your silencer and stock jetting.


AIR FILTER - run it without it in a non dusty area for a minute with a new plug if you have one. this will lean it out a hair or a lot if your filter is heavily soaked with oil.


OIL RATIO - As suggested, i would change it before further testing to help reduce variables and might clean up the black on the plug, just don't ride around wot all the time.


ENGINE RACING - Part of that was obviously your plugged pilot circuit causing a lean condition. i might blast carb cleaner through that circuit for around 3 seconds every 3 minutes and do it 6 times if you think there might still be goo in it.

set your throttle cable so it has around 3/16" - 1/4" of play at the carb temporarily until your prob is solved. if it odkes high again simply chedck the play. if there is play then the cable has been eliminated as a problem.


CARB SLIDE - Look at it to see if there is any chrome worn off exposing the brass. if the slide or carb bore is excessively worn it can cause high and/or erratic idle.


CLUTCH - Your arm position is correct. remove the cable and move the arm front to back, there should be some freeplay. my guess at this point is that it is totally wasted. if the parts "fish" says the other will work then try it. if your clutch is easy to pull in you can also install 2 "AN" style washers on each bolt to increase the spring pressure. this is a temporary test. sand the plates as i suggested but this alone will not fix it completely if much at all.


OIL - Your oil is not causing your clutch to slip.


The fact that your engine revs under acceleration and is worse when warm obviously says your engine is at least fairly good and your clutch totally sucks. this is good because a clutch that sucks is typically easier to fix than an engine that does not work right. Once your spark plug is lite tan and it runs well you'll be fine.


Here’s my avatar. I named her Bacon. Isn’t she cute?

Hi, my name is Bacon Aren't I cute.

[emmie357]

LEAK TEST - Ok, well did it leak?

How much did you pump it up to?

For how long?

It held 6-7lbs, it held without a drop for about 4 minutes before the exhaust plug let out. That was the longest run I had, the plug kept getting more and more soapy and oily. I'll probably try it again for peace of mind. Need a new expansion plug, 2 inches was the biggest NAPA had, had to over tighten it to get it to block the exhaust off. I wanted a 2 and a quarter inch plug. I have to call around.

GAS LEVEL - Its complicated but i like to make sure the things that are easy to correct first that should be corrected, be corrected before i search for other probs, because incorrect settings may be contributing to a prob i might be having. in other words, put in a new proper heat range plug, set the gas level in the carb, set the air mix screw [n/a on your carb] check timing in case some clown advanced it 50 degrees and do a pressure test.

I can't hook a tube up to this drain:
The tube coming out is for the overflow, the drain appears to be the large piece that unscrews...
I adjusted the float until gas spilled out the overflow, then went back a little. Am I good?

EXHAUST COLOR - Does it smoke and if so what color is it, lite gray, very dark gray to black? black is too much fuel.

Smokes pretty good, light blueish grey. No more oil spewing by the head, exhaust is nice and tight now. Silencer is still oily, I'll try thinning the premix ratio once it's back together (clutch is apart right now).

SPARK PLUG - Run the engine for a few, then post a photo, it's easier for us. It should not be black, your engine should be lean with your silencer and stock jetting.

AIR FILTER - run it without it in a non dusty area for a minute with a new plug if you have one. this will lean it out a hair or a lot if your filter is heavily soaked with oil.

OIL RATIO - As suggested, i would change it before further testing to help reduce variables and might clean up the black on the plug, just don't ride around wot all the time.

ENGINE RACING - Part of that was obviously your plugged pilot circuit causing a lean condition. i might blast carb cleaner through that circuit for around 3 seconds every 3 minutes and do it 6 times if you think there might still be goo in it.

set your throttle cable so it has around 3/16" - 1/4" of play at the carb temporarily until your prob is solved. if it odkes high again simply chedck the play. if there is play then the cable has been eliminated as a problem.

once it's back together I'll try these things. I have the carb off again right now so I'll keep cleaning that until I'm satisfied.

CARB SLIDE - Look at it to see if there is any chrome worn off exposing the brass. if the slide or carb bore is excessively worn it can cause high and/or erratic idle.

Chrome is in good shape, no scratches or wear marks.

CLUTCH - Your arm position is correct. remove the cable and move the arm front to back, there should be some freeplay. my guess at this point is that it is totally wasted. if the parts "fish" says the other will work then try it. if your clutch is easy to pull in you can also install 2 "AN" style washers on each bolt to increase the spring pressure. this is a temporary test. sand the plates as i suggested but this alone will not fix it completely if much at all.

OIL - Your oil is not causing your clutch to slip.

The fact that your engine revs under acceleration and is worse when warm obviously says your engine is at least fairly good and your clutch totally sucks. this is good because a clutch that sucks is typically easier to fix than an engine that does not work right. Once your spark plug is lite tan and it runs well you'll be fine.

Took the clutch apart today. Of the 7 plates, 2 are out of spec, 2 at the service limit, and 3 were in usable condition. I ordered a set of NOS clutch plates, decent price too. Should have them by next weekend.
The metal plates are all straight, I layed them on a piece of glass to check with a feeler gauge, no warping at all.

Springs are all at the service limit, anyone have a recommendation for replacements?
Stock replacements? Barnett? Vesrah? EBC?

I have a NOS clutch gasket laying around, so I should be all set.
Motion pro clutch and throttle cables en-route. This should all come together next weekend. I'll post the results.

Thanks for all the help.

[3 Wheel Drive]

I'm guessing Barnett468 will go with the Barnett replacements...lol. A lot of good info here, I'm putting my Tecate back together as soon as I get time to paint my final coat on my hubs and swinger. I'll be looking back through here if I run into trouble with my clutch.

Good looking build, I ran out of time for painting my frame.

[barnett468]

Hello emmie;


GAS LEVEL - How far or below the gasket surface is the top of the overflow pipe?

You want your gas around 1/4" below the gasket surface. You can calculate/estimate it close enough. Also check your actual float level measurement. If it is way off then something is wrong but I doubt it because it ran decent.


CLUTCH - There is a service limit for the metal plates and springs also. If the springs are within spec you do not need to replace them. If they are too short [collapsed] then they will not produce enough pressure on the clutch which can cause it to slip.

I would buy original springs only. I assure you, the stock clutch on these bikes is killer, it will take more hp than stock and professional racing abuse and work fine for a long time.

Where in the world did you find factory original fiber discs?


LEAK DOWN TEST - Ok, this is a good sign.


EXHAUST SMOKE COLOR - The blue/grey color is oil. If it was rich enough to make your plug black it would likely be almost black.


EXHAUST SMOKE - If it smokes a lot and does NOT have an oil seal or case leak into the crankcase, which yours does not seem to, then it obviously means that it is the oil in the gas. Some types of oil smoke more than others even when mixed at the same ratio for various reasons. Again, if you are not running wot all the time then 32:1 is fine. This should reduce the amount of smoke by a significant amount and hopefully clean up the black on your plug. It is possible that, the brand of oil you are using is simply "dirty" or burns "dirty. This does not mean it is "bad" or low quality oil.


JETTING - Again, other than the odd black on your spark plug, your jetting should be very close to ideal, therefore I would not change it until the mix ratio is changed. If your plug continues to get black after that, I would try a 1 size smaller main jet, but this simply defies logic in your case. Just make sure your oil filter is not over oiled. You can temporarily remove your air filter or clean it and run it dry to see if it gets any better.

[emmie357]

The top of the overflow is real close to the gasket, I can comfortably say within a quarter inch without having to go to may garage to measure. (but I'll look when I get out there and correct myself if needed).

I'll look for some kawi springs, they are still available (but pricy). The ones I had are all right at the service limit of 32.3mm, got a few 32.27, 32.28 measurements in certain spots, so I may as well replace them now while it's apart.

I think I got lucky on the plates, I had been looking the last few days and these must have just popped up on ebay. They were NOS, part number was for the 84, but the parts fiche says they fit 85 (85 part number fits 84 too). Full set of 7 for $43 including shipping, around the same price as a EBC or "Clutch Factory" brand kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-130...694b1f&vxp=mtr