85 tecate questions and build

[barnett468]

hello;

killer score. those retail for 25.00 each. see link below. the orig springs are 6.50 each unless partzilla.com has them.

http://www.xtremeusa.com/OEMpartfind...1985/080182H-8

[barnett468]

as i mentioned, you can likely shim the springs with the AN washers and be ok and save 40.00.

[nd4speed]

The clutch springs for 84-85 Tecate can be found in so many bikes it would be hard to list them all, but here is one example: KX500 1989-2004

What is odd is the 1986 KX250 springs, same as 1987-88 KX500 or GT550 1983-2001 or ZR550 1991-99 (also many more)

Clutch Spring(SK) Vesrah No. SK-407
Q'ty Maker Model Year Code Name Year Categoly
5 Pcs KAWASAKI KX250 D2 86 Dirt

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KXT250 A2 Tecate 85 ATV

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KXT250 B1,B2 Tecate 86-87 ATV

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 A1,A2 80-81 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 A3,A4 Sports 550 82-83 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 C1,C2,C3,C4 LTD Series 80-83 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 D1 GPZ 550 81 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 F1 Spectre 550 83 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 F2 LTD Shaft 84 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 H1,H2 GPZ 550 82-83 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KZ550 M1 LTD 83 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI Z550 G6 89 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI ZR550 B1,B2,B3, Zephyr 550 90-93 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI ZX550 A1,A2,A3 GPZ Series 84-86 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI KL600 A1 KLR 600 84 Dirt

5 Pcs KAWASAKI ZX600 A1,A2,A3 Ninja 600R 85-87 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI ZX600 B1 Ninja 600RX 87 Street

5 Pcs KAWASAKI ZX600 C1,C2,C3,C4,C5,C6,C7,C8,C9,C10 Ninja 600R 88-97 Street



1984 KXT250 clutch kit same as:
KDX 250 B2/B3 82-83
Z 250 A1-A3/B1-B2 79-81
ER 250 B1-B3 ʻScorpionʼ 83-88
GPZ 305 A1/B2-B10 83-96
KX 500 A1/A2 83-84


BARNETT----------------------------------
Clutch fiber friction plates for 1984/85 KXT250:
Kawasaki Clutches
Application Part # Description / Notes
KDX-250 250CC (1980-81) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KDX-250 250CC (1982-84) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (7)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (6)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KDX-250 250CC (1991-94) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-063006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-44-06002
Clutch Kits:
KX-250 250CC (1974-76) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (5)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (4)
Spring Kits: 501-24-06057
Clutch Kits:
KX-250 250CC (1978-79) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (5)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (4)
Spring Kits: 501-24-06057
Clutch Kits:
KX-250 250CC (1980-81) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits:
KX-250 250CC (1982-84) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (7)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (6)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KX-250 250CC (1987-90) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-059006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits: *303-45-10011_**303-45-20011 *Complete Kevlar Kit **Complete Carbon Fiber Kit
KX-250 250CC (1991) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-063006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits:
KXF-250, Tecate 4 250CC (1987-88) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-059006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits:
KXT-250, Tecate 250CC (1984-85) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (7)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (6)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KEF-300, Lakota 300 300CC (1995-03) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (5)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (4)
Spring Kits: 501-40-04058
Clutch Kits:
KLF-300, Bayou 300 300CC (1986-04) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (5)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (4)
Spring Kits: 501-40-04058
Clutch Kits:
KLF-300, Bayou 4X4 300CC (1989-05) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (5)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (4)
Spring Kits: 501-40-04058
Clutch Kits:
EX-305 , B1-GP 305CC (1983) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (7)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (6)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KZ-305, LTD 305CC (1981-88) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (7)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (6)
Spring Kits: 501-45-05050
Clutch Kits:
KDX-400 400CC (1979-80) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KLF-400, Bayou 400 4X4 400CC (1993-99) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-063006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-04058
Clutch Kits:
KDX-420 420CC (1981) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits:
KX-420 420CC (1980-81) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits:
KDX-450 450CC (1982) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (6)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-078006 (5)
Spring Kits: 501-40-06058
Clutch Kits:
KX-500 500CC (1983-84) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (7)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (6)
Spring Kits: 501-57-05007
Clutch Kits:
KX-500 500CC (1987-04) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10016 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-059006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-50-06055
Clutch Kits: *303-45-10011_**303-45-20011 *Complete Kevlar Kit **Complete Carbon Fiber Kit



1986 KXT250 Fiber friction plates:
Kawasaki Clutches
Application Part # Description / Notes
KX-250 250CC (1985) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10006 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-40-05058
Clutch Kits:
KX-250 250CC (1986) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10006 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-50-05055
Clutch Kits:
KXT-250, Tecate 250CC (1986-88) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10006 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-50-05055
Clutch Kits:
KX-500 500CC (1985-86) Friction Plates (Qty.): 301-45-10006 (8)
Steel Plates (Qty.): 401-45-047006 (7)
Spring Kits: 501-57-05007
Clutch Kits:

[emmie357]

as i mentioned, you can likely shim the springs with the AN washers and be ok and save 40.00.

Sorry, but I have never come across the term "AN" washer. I tried to look it up, an "A" washer is normal size/thickness, what does the "N" stand for? Or am I completely off?
Do you happen to know a size?

And thanks nd4speed, also your parts swap thread has been extremely helpful. Between that and the parts fiche, I've been able to get a bunch of kx250 parts on the cheap. Too bad trike parts go for a premium when the same parts are out there for cheap prices just because they fit "some old dirt bike".

Those clutch plates just fell into my lap when I knew I needed a new set... I couldn't be happier. Well, we'll see if anything changes once they are in my hands.

[barnett468]

hello emmie;


ok, i can't find them right now, it figures, lol. they are steel and have a thin wall like the copper ones in the photo below.

"sae" washers have a larger od and fender washers have a very large od. AN washers have one if the smallest od's.

you can also use brake line washers of the proper id.

measure the id of the spring or the spring post on the clutch. it might be around 5/16 or slightly larger. then get AN or brake line washers that id.

both are at industrial hardware supply stores or graingers. the brake line washers only are at motorcycle shops. i have done this several times so i know they make the size you need.

[emmie357]

Thanks Barnett, I just picked some of them up at NAPA along with a banjo bolt for my rear caliper. They had a bunch of sizes in the book, so I'm sure I can get a set of copper ones off of them on the cheap. I'll try the size I have first for reference, they fit an M10 banjo bolt, and should be just about the right size (off the top of my head).

[barnett468]

hello emmie;

wow, cool, that was fast.

here's a photo of the "bleepin" AN washer. I'm posting it so you can see it anyway in case you ever need one, especially since it took a while to find the "bleepin" thing, lol. notice how the od is small compared to standard sae washers. i use them a lot under allen bolts when i use allens on aluminum auto intakes.




don't forget to lightly sand those metal plates.

some brake washers are thin like around .018", others are around .028". either one is ok. i would not stack two .018" up on top of each other. that is a ton of additional preload when multiplied by 5. your springs are still in spec anyway so the biggest prob was your clutch plates. even if the plates are in spec they can still be glaved/burnt which causes them to slip.

[350for350]

Emmie. Here's something to consider. If everything is completely stock in the carb and air box, it's possible that the aftermarket silencer is making it run lean if it flows better than the stock one. Also check the jet sizes. Sometimes aftermarket carb rebuild kits will have jets that are numbered correctly, but are actually too small. The mechanic/owner at my closest dealership told me that. I didn't believe him until I took my 350x to Colorado a couple of years back. The 135 main jet I bought from him was visibly larger than the 138 that I took out. I will never use the jets from a rebuild kit after seeing that! If I can't clean mine out, I'll go buy one from a dealer. A lot of people aren't aware of this.

[emmie357]

While I'm waiting for the clutch parts I decided to change the front fork oil.

The were sitting really low, and were very soft. Some old stanky milky oily came out. I refilled with 15weight bel ray fork oil.
They sit higher now, but are still a little low. I decided to check the parts fiche to see if I was missing some spacers or something and sure enough, there is supposed to be a short upper spring and the long main spring. Well, I'm missing the uppers on both sides.

I had already considered purchasing progressive springs because I'm not the smallest guy, anybody know if I still need the short upper spring with them? Or should I go post a wanted ad for the uppers? Or could I use an appropriate sized spacer? I'll also need to of the guides that sit on top of the springs if I get a set of uppers.

[barnett468]

Hello emmie;


UPPER SPRINGS

He might have put the springs on the damper rods to shorten the travel for short track.

Put your bike on a box with the front wheel off the ground.

measure from the top of the tire [if it's 23 x 9 x 11], to the fender where the tire would hit if the susp bottomed out. if the tire is a different height then just calculate for that.

if that distance is less than around 9 1/2", your short springs are on the damper rods.

if they are missing you can cheat and go to any hardware store and buy springs that are close enough for government work.


SPRING GUIDES

You can use plain flat washers between the springs and on top if you want. yup they will work and no they will not hurt anything.


FORK OIL AND SPRINGS

I think the orig oil was 7.5w. it was 10 at the most. Unless you weight more than 200 lbs AND you plan on going off huge jumps, the stock weight oil and springs are fine, i guarantee you. i flogged the bejesus out of that thing during testing and racing and it never bottomed hard, therefore, i would try the stock ones before making any changes. you might save some money.


STIFFENING RIDE

You can also raise the fork oil level by 3/4" over stock and/or add air to the forks to stiffen them slightly if needed.

[emmie357]

Thanks Barnett,

I think you confused your gens... this is a first gen with the 22x11x10 front.

But I still think you are right. With the front tire off the ground there's 5&1/2- 6 inches of clearance to the bottom of the fender. If I yank the lowers down, they actually spring back up a little. I take it a full fork disassemble will be needed to correct this? If so I may as well replace all the seals while I'm in there.

[barnett468]

Thanks Barnett,

I think you confused your gens... this is a first gen with the 22x11x10 front.

ok i'm a moron, thanks for the info, lol.

the spring info is correct still, i just had 86 tire on my mind because someone asked about them.

the 85 had around 8.7" of travel.

there is a spring on the damper rod of all forks. it is called a top out spring and colapses around around 1".

so 8.7 minus .625 [because the weight of the wheel colapses the spring slightly] = 8.075" of travel.

you can just measure from the top of the fork tube to the bottom of the tripple clamp then compress the forks, then subtract the small number from the big one and you should have around 8". if it is around 7 or less, most likely the top spring is under the rod also.


if your tire is stock, then your measurement suggests the top springs are under there.
yes you must diassemble them to remove it.


if youf



as far p

But I still think you are right. With the front tire off the ground there's 5&1/2- 6 inches of clearance to the bottom of the fender. If I yank the lowers down, they actually spring back up a little. I take it a full fork disassemble will be needed to correct this? If so I may as well replace all the seals while I'm in there.[/QUOTE]

[emmie357]

It looks like the top springs were moved to the bottom, and the short bottom springs were missing.

Going to check the local salvage yard, I think he has some rusty forks that I may be able to cannibalize.

[jb2wheels]

If you're not in a hurry, I should have a complete set of internals for Tecate forks. You can have them for the price of shipping.

But it will likely be this weekend before I get to rounding them up.

[emmie357]

If you're not in a hurry, I should have a complete set of internals for Tecate forks. You can have them for the price of shipping.

But it will likely be this weekend before I get to rounding them up.

Wow, thanks. I probably wouldn't be able to get to the yard until next weekend anyway, got to go visit my mom for mother's day this weekend. I'll send you a PM.