BW200...ssssssllllllllllloooooooowwwwww

[Six Stroke]

Kick only, 1985.

[hoosierlogger]

Are you going to be at trikefest? If You are, I can bring it so you can try it. If not, maybe we can figure something out to help you a little.

[350for350]

Popping on deceleration is usually a sign of being lean. Silencer missing spark arrestor and being loud (packing worn out) adds to the lean condition symptons. If you don't have any luck with another carb, I'd try to put the silencer back to stock.

[Six Stroke]

Unfortunately I won't be at TF. The local guy doesn't have a timing light, so I'll just suck it up and buy my own with an inductive tach on it. If the timing, carb, and exhaust play doesn't help, I'll likely be contacting you.

350for350 - The worn-out exhaust is also probably a contributing factor, but I picked the bike up as a basketcase in '11, got it running again last November, and haven't yet had much luck sourcing a "good" exhaust for it, at least for a reasonable price. The spark arrestor was crap from the get-go, hence the carb-play. I have to place another Dennis Kirk order soon, so I'll get some more jets to try again.

[shovelryder]

Six, where are you located??? Im out in Buffalo.....I have bout any tool you need....including a timing light.

[Six Stroke]

I'm in St. Cloud, and the bike lives in Eagle Bend. I'm not sure when I'll be running up there again (summer work schedule and all), but I'll let you know if I drag it back and need a timing light.

[Doink]

Don't buy a CDI for more than $100. Get on the official Big Wheel Thread, find a guy named sixpepper, he has figured out how to build them and sells them for $75 last time I checked.
My opinion on your build is that it is no longer stock, so attempting stock is a lost cause. Get a Mikuni flat slide racing carb, aftermarket hi-flow exhaust and you'll be able to tune it in minutes. This is based on actually doing it on 3 different BW's, 2 200's and a 350.

[Six Stroke]

Update, a long time coming: After doing some more research, I found that the cam I used (YTM/YFM stocker) has a different part number than the BW/TW cam. I bought a YFM head for it, mostly because it's the same part number, but also because it doesn't have the premium price of a "genuine BW" part on eBay. I just ran the cam that was in it, assuming they were the same. Well, you know what's said about assuming...


Anyhow, a different cam is in the plan for the future.

[DohcBikes]

Haven't researched the Yamaha 200series motors much, did the bw have higher compression than the yfm? Just curious. Also you may want to check the valve spring pn 's or specs to be sure they match your new cam.

Hey," did you measure your cam before you rebuilt it?" . How'd you figure it out? Good work!

[Six Stroke]

I just checked the p/n one day on a whim, and found they were different. I think the key difference for the cam profiles would have to do with the short intake/manual clutch on the BW/TW vs. the long intake/auto-clutch on the YTM/YFM. The YTM/YFM intake runner may be "tuned" to some extent, providing a torque boost at a certain RPM, but not really made for higher-RPM power. I'm also probably seeing diminishing returns with the higher compression piston/YFM cam and the short intake. I was going to try swapping the stock BW cam I have from the parts motor, but alas...it's pitted through the hardweld on the lobes. I'd rather be slow but reliable rather than faster and questionable in the Paul Bunyan State Forest this weekend.

[atc500x]

My friend have one,had a bad cdi this summer,simply no spark,I have 2 cdi in stock,he took both,one was bad,the other one do the exact same thing as your.he bought a new one and problem solved

But try another one if possible before spending 300$....