two problems I need advise on

[DickyDanger]

I just recently filled my gas tank with white vinegar and let it sit for two days to clean out the slight surface rust I had in my tank. First off it worked great and the tank looked brand new inside. I dumped the vinegar out and wiped down the inside with a dog zip tied to a metal rod (piece of brake line) I put the gas cap back on and left it on the bench over nigjt when I opened it the next morning all the rust came back??!! What did I do wrong?

Part two. I am going to be replacing the clutch in my 110 between today and tomorrow and have never done one before. I have a complete bolt on used known good clutch from another 110. What surprises should I expect besides the special clutch nut? Is it simply draining the oil, pulling the clutch cover, removing the old clutch reinstalling the new clutch putting the cover back on fill it with oil and adjust? Any help is much appreciated.

[DickyDanger]

URL=http://s158.photobucket.com/user/rvinal/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140529_111303.jpg.html][/URL]



This is what the clutch I have to use looks like

[wonderboy]

Your tank just "flash rusted". Once your tank is cleaned of all rust, and then you dry it out, there is nothing stopping the air from oxidizing the metal. You need to do one of two things: coat it with a gas tank liner, or immediately fill it with fuel. You have to keep the air off of the surface of the metal or it will rust again. The good news is that the flash rust that is there now should just be a very thin layer that should be easy to remove again with vinegar.

[jb2wheels]

Your tank flash rusted.
You need to rinse the tank with a baking soda & water solution a few times to neutralize the acid etched metal.
I'd follow up with an acetone or rubbing alcohol rinse to dry out the tank.

That's what I did on my TRX70 tank.

Clutch replacement is as you described.
Don't forget to clean out the "oil filter rotor" (it's on the clutch) and oil screen while you're in there. I'm amazed at the amount of sludge in the "oil filter rotor" on EVERY 30 year old Honda engine I've had the past few years.
I use a copper penny (not one of the new zinc ones) and jam it between the crank gear and clutch gear so I can tighten (and loosen) the clutch nut.

[fabiodriven]

That must be a really small dog. I probably wouldn't have used a dog but whatever works I guess.

[DickyDanger]

That must be a really small dog. I probably wouldn't have used a dog but whatever works I guess.

Lol auto correct typo

[Bren_downe]

If you can't put fuel in the tank right away a good soaking of wd-40 works good too.

[DickyDanger]

Your tank flash rusted.
You need to rinse the tank with a baking soda & water solution a few times to neutralize the acid etched metal.
I'd follow up with an acetone or rubbing alcohol rinse to dry out the tank.

That's what I did on my TRX70 tank.

Clutch replacement is as you described.
Don't forget to clean out the "oil filter rotor" (it's on the clutch) and oil screen while you're in there. I'm amazed at the amount of sludge in the "oil filter rotor" on EVERY 30 year old Honda engine I've had the past few years.
I use a copper penny (not one of the new zinc ones) and jam it between the crank gear and clutch gear so I can tighten (and loosen) the clutch nut.

I dont see a screen anywhere on the clutch that I have pictured on this thread. And im not exactly understanding where to stick the penny. Sorry

[DohcBikes]

The oil filter rotor is the circle piece with a circle window cut in it so that you can stare hopelessly at the oil filter rotor screws, knowing full well that they arent going to come out easy, if at all. And no, its not in your pics. Impact screwdriver is usually the ticket.

The penny thing is to keep the rotor from spinning while you fruitlessly attempt to loosen the three screws. Jam it between the crank gear and the clutch gear, just like he said. They make an actual little key tool specifically for this procedure. Never worked on 110 motor so maybe they are different than the manual clutch motors im use to..

Do you have a service manual?

[DickyDanger]

The oil filter rotor is the circle piece with a circle window cut in it so that you can stare hopelessly at the oil filter rotor screws, knowing full well that they arent going to come out easy, if at all. And no, its not in your pics. Impact screwdriver is usually the ticket.

The penny thing is to keep the rotor from spinning while you fruitlessly attempt to loosen the three screws. Jam it between the crank gear and the clutch gear, just like he said. They make an actual little key tool specifically for this procedure. Never worked on 110 motor so maybe they are different than the manual clutch motors im use to..

Do you have a service manual?

Yes I have a manual I just prefer listening to real life experience before I do anything new. It appears my clutch has four phillps screws holding it together I would rather not take apart this clutch as I planned to learn how to take apart and rebuild the smoked one I want to just install this one and hope it works as its said too and get me back out riding with the boys this weekend.

[shortline10]

Their is an oil screen that needs cleaned while the clutch cover is off . Its located at the bottom center case by the drain bolt , Most of the time the gasket stays on the inner case when the cover is removed so the gasket needs removed to see it .
The 4 Phillips screws don't need to be removed to replace the clutch plates , just the large snap ring on the back of the clutch , remove with a flat head screw driver and reinstall with a little down force and your hand pressure . Very simple job but pay close attention to the steel plates and the location of the little springs .

[DickyDanger]

Well im calling tonight a fail. I got the new used clutch in and put back together it went into first gear no problem but getting it back to nuetral or even second was a task the shifter was moving as it should but nothing was happening I took it for a spin in first and the clutch felt good. I must have not put something back together right to prevent the lack of shifting.. I also have oil leaking out of the clutch "adjuster" now which while im on it I dont get how that stud and nut do anything the plate that its attached too on the inside of the clutch cover stays stationary on the clutch cover in a hole so I dont get how you use it to adjust the clutch

[DickyDanger]

Im going to take it apart tonight and give it another go im assuming the clutch shift fork isnt lined up properly? And the clutch adjuster should not be stationary right? I know the manuAl says its adjustable but when I took it apart it sat in a hole in the cover that kept it fixed unless someone was in there before me and put it back together wrong.

[shortline10]

Did you adjust the clutch correctly ?
The motor needs to be laid over on its side or the clutch parts installed with some heavy grease so they stay in place .

[DickyDanger]

Is the adjuster stud supposed to move freely inside the piece it sits in? This second piece from left to right has a stud that sits in the clutch cover so that it stays stationary im thinking my adjuster stud is frozen.