Help or opinions on this issue.....STILL NOTHING!!!!

[Dirtcrasher]

First off, I feel like an IDIOT!

All I did was pop in a Barnett clutch in the 350didyRX

I have spark, lots of compression and it should be at the right time because Honda is not known for stator or flywheel failures.

I only had 108 octane race gas for the 200X. I put about a gallon in the RX there but no mix.

The trike is backfiring, popping etc but will not run. NOTHING was touched when I popped in a clutch; I got VR1 10-30 oil today and filled it up and this is how that turned out.

Could the race gas on a 10.25 piston engine with open AB lid and Supertrapp exhaust create this issue?? I'm NOT a parts changer but I'm running out of time which may cause me to toss in another crate motor and or electrical system.

I am on a Trikefest CRUNCH time! And now that trike that ran perfect is dead......

Does any of this make sense to anyone?? I know I'm stressed but yesterday this was a 1 to 2 kick trike; Now it farts and backfires. I guess I'll go get some 93 tomorrow morning and if that does not work, I will move on to the stator (although I have a nice spark) and I doubt that is the issue.

I cleaned the carburetor spotless, have no intake leaks so I am lost. I think this crunch time is killing my brain.

Any thoughts?? Just ran great a day ago. Put in oil, cleaned carb, adjusted decompression cable, clutch cable and now it's not running.

Thank you for any help, thoughts or suggestions

[just ben]

I didn't have a clue until the very end of your post. My best guess would be the decompression cable adjustment is a little too tight.
Or did the issues start before you adjusted the cable? My only other thought would be bad fuel.

[atc007]

Clean the carb bud. New plug 1st. But I bet you got a rogue piece of crap in a jet.

[El Camexican]

Race gas dies a terrible death. If it's not fresh it won't burn.

[MattDragontamer]

Yea.. I don't know... But to answer your fuel question....

As you probably know, different engines are designed to run different type of fuel.
You have to take into consideration the type of engine, the conpression ratio and the temperature allowences.

In order to make a simple example, i will use the standard pickup vs the sports car.

A pickup is designed to haul and produce high torque with little rpm. In order to achive this, the fuel used is low octaine (85) which burns at a low compression ratio (lets say 5:1 for argument sake) but the low octaine produces a slow burn of the fuel and runs hotter. A byproduct of this is visible smoke and large rads.

The sportscar on the other hand produces mid torque with high rpm. In order to achive this, the fuel used is high octaine (91) (or higher) which burns at a high compression ratio (lets say 10:1) but the high octaine produces a fast burn and runs cooler.

With this said, we have all heard the tale, higher octaine gas will give you better performance.
Well... No. You might as well just throw your money to the wind.
The only way higher octain fuel will give you better performance is if your engine is designed or rebuilt to handle high compression and high rpms.
So if you are racing, and are running a stock engine, check the manual for the recomended fuel consitration.
Many times you can tell if you have the wrong fuel for your engine is if the engine is poping even though the timing and valves are clean.
A high octaine fuel will be hard to start and will burn just as the exhaust valve will open thus creating a explosion in the exhaust... Thus the pow! And a little flame out the back.
The loss of power and missfires will increase over time.

The use of low octaine fuel in a high compression engine will result in the eventual distruction of the head. The fuel will ignite prior to spark by compression alone. Common results are blown tops and holes right through pistons.

For small engines that run mid-high rpm, high torque but are air cooled... Most common thought is high octaine fuel. Which is somewhat correct. Again, depends on your engine.
Most small engines will run high octaine because of their design. They are air cooled, thus burning at lower temperatures will keep the engine from overheating. That's why mall engines usually will have a high ratio for their size.

Racing engines will usually do one of two things to get the power out of their engines.
Bore it out and increase the volume, but will use a higher/thicker piston to compensate for the added volume to keep the ratio the same or increase the ratio (squish).
The second way is to longstroke. This is usually done on dragters. The cam is machined for it and the pistons are made with reinforced walls and dimpeled heads that try to get the most compression without getting in the way of the valves. I'm sure you have seen those pistons with the "B" like groove in them. The high quality ones are designed to pool the gases into the center of the piston to a small concentrated point. They look like 3 circles indented on the top of a piston.

Anyways, if you are mixing race fuel into your stock or light modified engine, you are doing more harm then good. Race fuel is usually 116 octaine or greater for extreme compression ratios in the 20:1 range. This will lead to the buildup of carbon and slow burns out the tailpipe.
Cool effect at night, not so good otherwise.

For most trikes built back in the day, 85-89 octane is the way to go.
So drain the fuel and get some low octaine fuel in there it might be the case.

In addition, lower octaine fuel will ignite even with weak spark.
High octaine needs very hot spark.

[Dirtcrasher]

Race gas is 1 day old. Plug and fuel filter were changed at 3AM last night; I did the obvious stuff first and the decompression cable was adjusted per shop manual.

I only used race gas because I only have race gas

I'll mess with it in an hour, got to bed a 5AM.

[Billy Golightly]

I would wiggle some wires around. Also, I'm not sure if the 350X is a 2 or one wire exciter/pulse setup to the main firing coil, but I have had those get loose or come unplugged on my 250R when just changing a plug (by wiggling/moving the wire around to get the plug in and out) and that caused the issue. I've ended up where I actually silicone around those plugs onto the coil anymore so that it doesn't happen as easily.

[muthey]

I believe quote you said this was on a 200x, well I have not been in a 200x motor, but a regular 200 and such but the pulse generator cam pin can fall out if you forget to put the bolt back in. I have done this on occasion, and it causes similar issues. Don't rule out fuel octane as of yet but I would check that as well.

[muthey]

sorry reread the first post and you are working on a 350x, I have not worked on one of those motors so I don't know if anything I just said has any relevance or not, if not ignore my posts

[jays375]

I've run 110 with no issues.Even put it into small engines.I would lean towards electircal issues.Like broken wires at the stator or cdi unit.

[ironchop]

Any luck yet, Steve?

[Dirtcrasher]

Alrighty, got 4 new tires on the truck and a camper today, so, I am on spot with that aspect.

I like the wire ideas, but I have a great spark.

I have a flat blue spark, spotless carb, fuel in the cylinder with great compression and no stupid overlooked issues. This thing is DEAD!

You guys know as much as me and if I'm lost, thats bad.

Tomorrow, I build an intake for the 200X and thats a MAYBE as well.

I have fresh 93 in this 350RX here and not a spit, cough or backfire - NOTHING.

This is a crate motor, this does not happen to a Honda; I have never seen it......

Please DO NOT ANSWER without starting from post #1

Can ANYONE have anymore information than previously?? If I can't get this to run in 1 hour tomorrow, I'll stay home for 10 days and leave the phone off; Vacation, MY WAY.........

Thanks for any help but don't list the obvious please and thank you.

[shovelryder]

I'll just say don't fret. Bring it with and we will gitter figured out.

[Dirtcrasher]

I hate to take that chance, my regular 350X runs great but can't be raced......

What do I do, change a stator and coil and CDI when I have a flat blue4 spark??

All I did was change the damn clutch. The day I figure this out, I'll piss on myself because I am LOST and I am never LOST.....

I'm not driving 16hrs plus to fail.

What happened? I got the 108 octane out, WTH is going on??

This was put away running 100%, I knew I had abused the stock 25yo clutch, rode it the day I was doing the swap to get the oil warm and this is the result. Man, a person can only take so much after I bled all out what I did today!

[shovelryder]

What day ya gettin there man? We will be lined up like a pit crew and runnin before ya get set up. Ya got fuel, ya got spark, ya got compression........... I wanna fix it just ta see ya piss on yerself!.... Gotta be timing..... But..... What did u check spark with? An insulated tester? Or just a plug against the head? C'mon now..... We will get it.