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Thread: yamaha tri-moto front wheel removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Portage, IN
    --
    58

    yamaha tri-moto front wheel removal

    has anyone took the front wheel off a tri moto? i have ytm200 and my new front tire came yesterday, just wondering if its an easy job? i replaced the front tire on my streetbike the other day and it was easy, the whole axle just slid out. will the ytm be about the same? Thanks, Dennis

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    glendive, montana
    --
    1,822
    it should, you remove the brake cable and unbolt the axle then lightly tap on the end of the axle with a drift until it is about 3- 4 inches out and you can grab it it with your hand and pull it out.
    rectum nothin damn near killed them
    feel free to leave feed back for me here. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...06#post1119306

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,018
    Super simple to remove the wheel providing the front end is raised off the ground. The hard part is changing the tire. Do yourself a favor and completely remove the front brake cable from the drum first as the drum needs to come off with the wheel.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Portage, IN
    --
    58
    awesome thanks for the info, my front tire is still holding air fine...but its got some dry rot around the sides, jsut dont want it to blow out at the wrong time (out away from home). will probably change it after the 4th of july.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Portage, IN
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    58
    do you think it would be ok to just stand it straight up, resting on the grab bar? or could oil get in my airbox or something?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,018
    Just block, or jack up the front of the engine a few inches. You don't want to wrestle with that wheel 4 feet in the air with the front end swinging side to side. I can't remember if oil leaks into the air box when you stand them like that. I want to say, yes and that fuel leaks too.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Portage, IN
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    58
    Quote Originally Posted by El Camexican View Post
    Just block, or jack up the front of the engine a few inches. You don't want to wrestle with that wheel 4 feet in the air with the front end swinging side to side. I can't remember if oil leaks into the air box when you stand them like that. I want to say, yes and that fuel leaks too.
    ok thanks for the info, i will just put it up on blocks or something, just thought it would be easier to have the wheel at hand height and standing up working on it. Thanks again, Dennis

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,018
    Just imagine pulling down hard to un-wedge the wheel if it gets hung up while stood up on the bar. You're skirude if you're alone.

  9. #9
    emmie357's Avatar
    emmie357 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Upstate NY
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    214
    I just prop them up on a milk crate or 5 gallon bucket.
    84 YTM200E "yamahauler"
    85 YTM200
    85 KXT250 Tecate

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Portage, IN
    --
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by El Camexican View Post
    Super simple to remove the wheel providing the front end is raised off the ground. The hard part is changing the tire. Do yourself a favor and completely remove the front brake cable from the drum first as the drum needs to come off with the wheel.
    wow, you were right, the wheel came off easy anf the tire came off pretty easy.....but i am having one hell of a hard time getting the new one on...is there any tricks? the new tire wants to collapse when i kneel on it, so it seems like i have to put both sides on at once, this sux, i am sweating like a pig and havent made ANY progress in getting it mounted.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Brazil, Indiana
    --
    728
    I've used a ratchet strap around the tire to help get the bead close. Also if you can take the valve core out it will help the air flow into the tire faster. It takes some patience but ive become pretty good at seating beads.
    1979 ATC110
    1983 ATC110
    1984 ATC110
    1984 ATC125M
    1985 ATC110 2 of them
    1985 ATC110 The wife's
    1987 ATC125M
    1985 ATC250ES
    1984 DX225 with 250 timberwolf engine and swingarm. Wolf in DX clothing

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Portage, IN
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    58
    i just cant get it on the rim

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Brazil, Indiana
    --
    728
    It is pretty hard to fight tires onto 8 inch wheels. Im used to doing 2 pc honda wheels. Worst case scenario take it to the local tire place and pay the fee to have the tire mounted. Other then that use some dish soap to lube the bead of the tire and wheel and it might help to have a buddy to hold the wheel while you work the tire on
    1979 ATC110
    1983 ATC110
    1984 ATC110
    1984 ATC125M
    1985 ATC110 2 of them
    1985 ATC110 The wife's
    1987 ATC125M
    1985 ATC250ES
    1984 DX225 with 250 timberwolf engine and swingarm. Wolf in DX clothing

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
    --
    4,736
    Go one bead on the rim at a time. The wheel probably has an offset dip in the middle. Put one side of the tire onto the side of the rim where the dip is closest to. Lube it with dish soap.the first side will go on pretty easy but the second side of the tire will require a bar to.work around the wheel while you use your knee to hold one side still on the rim......just go one side of tire at a time onto the side of the wheel where the offset is closest to the wheel side or you will fight it for a year!!!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
    --
    4,736
    Your knee will hold that side down far enough to go into that offset dip which makes it possible to squeeze the tire on with a bar......its hard to describe in text.

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