Best way to paint my tri-z motor

[Red Rider]

if its a hoopty, spray can it.

I disagree. I've seen lots of nice engines that were spray painted via spray can. I've also seen a lot of engines/frames that looked like crap. It all comes down to prep work, as has been stated before, how much time & attention to detail one feels like devoting to the task, and finally, one's painting skills. If you don't know how to properly use a spray can, or a spray gun for that matter, the finished product will look subpar.

[yaegerb]

here's my 200x engine done in PJ1 fast black satin....far from junk.

[JesseA420]

dont get me wrong, i know what it takes to properly prep and paint. but an OHV that will be rode, will see plenty of obstacles just waiting to brush against that paint, some sharp some not sharp, for me it comes down to durability. that thick melted plastic/polymer is not going to rub off no matter how much brush rubs against the front of those cases, but your paint eventually will. why waste all the time effort and close to the same amount of funds on prepping and painting when you can have it powdered for nearly the same cost, and have it look just like it was done yesterday, forever, or until you want a different color? seems like a no brainer.

[yaegerb]

dont get me wrong, i know what it takes to properly prep and paint. but an OHV that will be rode, will see plenty of obstacles just waiting to brush against that paint, some sharp some not sharp, for me it comes down to durability. that thick melted plastic/polymer is not going to rub off no matter how much brush rubs against the front of those cases, but your paint eventually will. why waste all the time effort and close to the same amount of funds on prepping and painting when you can have it powdered for nearly the same cost, and have it look just like it was done yesterday, forever, or until you want a different color? seems like a no brainer.

Point taken. I paint/powder based on utility and I doubt this one will see much brush, rocks, etc

[Red Rider]

...that thick melted plastic/polymer is not going to rub off no matter how much brush rubs against the front of those cases, but your paint eventually will.

I agree powder coating is more durable, but it's not impervious to everything out on the trails. Most everything painted on my bike is powder coated, except for the engine. The powder coating still looks great to this day, though it is no longer shiney anymore where my boots rub the frame.

why waste all the time effort and close to the same amount of funds on prepping and painting when you can have it powdered for nearly the same cost...?

Unless you're doing the powder coating yourself, or someone is doing it for the cost of the materials only, there is no way to get your engine powder coated "for nearly the same cost" as a can of PJ1, some sandpaper, & a can of lacquer thinner.

...or until you want a different color?

Have you tried removing powder coating before? It's so durable, it's a total PITA. It's not nearly as easy as you make it sound.

[smrover1]

I ordered a can of the PJ1 gloss black and wish i would of ordered the satin i like the looks of yours. When u said u used the satin fast black are u talking the exhaust paint or the engine paint in satin ?

[yaegerb]

I ordered a can of the PJ1 gloss black and wish i would of ordered the satin i like the looks of yours. When u said u used the satin fast black are u talking the exhaust paint or the engine paint in satin ?

I did the engine in satin

[torker]

I've been using VHT suspension paint in satin black for my engines, pegs, grab bars, bumpers, a-arms, swing arms, you name it. The paint looks amazingly factory and has held up great.
I agree powder coating is the very best, but expensive. It all comes down to what you want to do with it. Powder coating will last for years, but there's no "touch up" on coating.
My engines and parts still look great with the VHT after years of being painted, no problems with fuel, oils, etc either. And you can re-paint or "touch up".
VHT can be found on any Pep-Boys and the like. Prep whatever you are painting very good, no matter the paint, there's no way around it for good results.
I can't even begin to tell you how much I hate sanding, but, it's either that or media blasting.

TORKER.

[DohcBikes]

Gotta say it again, sorry.

DuPont Imron beats everything listed so far, in every category. In my opinion

[El Camexican]

Don’t be scared to use the spray paint. Any engine paint available at Pep Boys, or Auto Zone will work. Like the “pro spray can” guys said, it all comes down to prep and application. You must remove all oil and grease before you paint or it will look like hell the first time you wash it. Good luck!

Spray bomb

Spray bomb

Spray bomb

Spray bomb

Spray bomb
[URL=http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/lucky1366/media/2002%20KTM%20300%20EXC/KTMEngine_zps8d607d95.jpg.html][/URL

[smrover1]

ok I am set on paint for the motor. Those pics all looked great. I do have one one other question and it might be a stupid one? When u guys paint the case halves do u paint them seperate or both together? The reason i ask is say i paint them black and bolt them together the yamabond is grey and will show a nice grey line right down the seam? Or do you guys bolt them together and just paint over the excess yamabond? I would thing the paint would start to peel if u did it that way?

[El Camexican]

You can do it a number of ways. I usually clean all the parts separately and prep all the surfaces for Yamabond, or seals in advance of paint to lessen the amount of tussling I have to do with the painted engine.

I then put the two case halves together with just a couple old bolts to paint. You can put the clutch and ignition covers on to save on masking, but in these photos I didn’t. Whatever needs masking I cover with masking tape and then trim with a fresh razor blade. It’s time consuming, but worth it. You can put the cylinder on the cases as well, but I usually don’t and shoot them separately as spots like under the intake track are hard to get at when its altogether. Any overspray comes off with thinner on a rag pulled over your finger tip. You can then open the cases and put the engine together and it will look factory fresh when the sealant can be seen against the painted surfaces.

Another super important thing to do as part of your prep is to do a dry run and pretend to paint the engine at all angles. You don’t want to find out that the engine tips onto a wet surface when you are rotating it. Old long bolts strategically placed around the engine make great handles and protect your work. Also make sure to shoot your last coat on the surfaces that will be seen the most. This leaves any overspray on spots you won’t see much. I also like to bake the paint with a heat gun shortly after the paint has started to set. Slow and easy heating gives the best results, don’t overdo it.