Six million dollar 350x No power!! Help!!

[Big Daddys 350x]

I'll continue on

I need to answer these questions first.

The piston was purchased from the machine shop that bored the cylinder.
The std bore cylinder was bored to 82 mm and the piston was hone fit to the cylinder.

The piston rings supplied with the kit were installed 180* apart from one another starting g with the oil ring.
We installed the cylinder and head at that point we clayed the piston and took measurement to be sure of piston to valve clearance. We also measured coil bind at max lift on every valve. When we reached .425 we stopped measuring.

As the engine was assembled we checked every part for free movement as the next corresponding part was installed.
The motor has tons of compression without the decompression cable hooked up you can barely kick the bike over. All symptoms were prior to the goki install. Cam timing is correct the cylinder received mild port work and blending. New valves seals springs retainers and keepers were installed. The head was pulled apart and inspected by us as well as our atv machinist. All was brand new and within spec of what we were using.

There is absolutely no engine noise what so every it just lacks power in my opinion and bogs off idle. The motor was built using a factory honda 350x specific manual. All parts were installed checked and rechecked per the manual except for the camshaft and valve Trane.

We have adjusted the valves 2 times and change oil 3 times with about 3 hrs of run time no signs of metal. We run 110 and Brad penn 20w50 oil per the cam grinders request.

Goki starter will not turn the motor over without the decompression cable installed and working correctly. However when the decompression lever is engauged it spin the motor over fast and free.

On the valve Trane cam lube was used to install all components.

[Big Daddys 350x]

I'll continue on

I need to answer these questions first.

The piston was purchased from the machine shop that bored the cylinder.
The std bore cylinder was bored to 82 mm and the piston was hone fit to the cylinder.

The piston rings supplied with the kit were installed 180* apart from one another starting g with the oil ring.
We installed the cylinder and head at that point we clayed the piston and took measurement to be sure of piston to valve clearance. We also measured coil bind at max lift on every valve. When we reached .425 we stopped measuring.

As the engine was assembled we checked every part for free movement as the next corresponding part was installed.
The motor has tons of compression without the decompression cable hooked up you can barely kick the bike over. All symptoms were prior to the goki install. Cam timing is correct the cylinder received mild port work and blending. New valves seals springs retainers and keepers were installed. The head was pulled apart and inspected by us as well as our atv machinist. All was brand new and within spec of what we were using.

There is absolutely no engine noise what so every it just lacks power in my opinion and bogs off idle. The motor was built using a factory honda 350x specific manual. All parts were installed checked and rechecked per the manual except for the camshaft and valve Trane.

We have adjusted the valves 2 times and change oil 3 times with about 3 hrs of run time no signs of metal. We run 110 and Brad penn 20w50 oil per the cam grinders request.

Goki starter will not turn the motor over without the decompression cable installed and working correctly. However when the decompression lever is engauged it spin the motor over fast and free.

On the valve Trane cam lube was used to install all components.

The valve Trane was assembled with the specs from megacycle. The head also had received a fresh valve job. And again was inspected by our machinist. His words "everything is new on the heads it hasn't been run since it's been built."

The carb was a stock used 400ex with factory jetting. The problem was obvious right out of the gate. So I called and ordered a sigma 6 jet kit for my application. They require all your engine specs before sending a kit.

It was installed per their instructions and seems to help it start a little quicker using the kicker.
Still down on power and the bog.

The lower end of the motor was cometely dis assembled and checked for and debris due to the fact that a screw was found in the motor. All was cleaned and reassembled. As each part was installed we checked to see if it moved freely as it should. No problems and no other parts were found loose in the engine.

The ignition system is completely stock from my previous motor. Both engines were 85 models. The coil was replaced with a new one and new ngk plug was installed.

The other day we drained the fuel installed another new filter changed the plug put in fresh gas and change the oil for the 3rd time after the goki install.

The clutch doesn't slip and is adjusted correctly. New cable new

[atc007]

I only see 2 things,,everything was good PRIOR to Goki install. And Jetting. What does a NEW plug look like after a ride?

[Big Daddys 350x]

Cut off my post again man this is frustrating. New msr lever

I do not know stock jetting nor do I know current jetting I was not there with him when he did it.

Anymore questions or something I left out please ask.

Thank you guys so so much! I'm not saying nothing could be wrong with the internals of the engine but I do know it was not just slapped together. I was there for 99% of the build and I double checked everything that was done to the motor with my machinist who also happens to be a friend of mine.

[Big Daddys 350x]

I only see 2 things,,everything was good PRIOR to Goki install. And Jetting. What does a NEW plug look like after a ride?

Sorry I mislead you everything was the same after starter was installed. The motor had the same issues and performed the same before and after

A new ngk plug was installed with the stock carb and new one was installed with jet kit. The other day I changed it again because it was black and sooty but not wet

If the bottom screw on the bowl is turned in all the way it seems to run the best. If the foam filter is installed the problem gets worse.

My electrical system cdi rectifier stator is all from the previous motor and is orgional, nothing new.

I thought it felt like the timing was not advanced enough?

[Mickey Dunlap]

Keep it simple, put the stock carb on it. Get rid of the jet kit, put the stock needle back in it. Start off with Keihin jets only,#42 pilot, fuel screw at 1 and a half turns out, clip in the center groove and a #165 main jet with the lid off the air box. Go from they and tell me what it runs like from there. If you need to run the air box lid drill 6 one and a half inch holes in the top of the lid. If it's running OK put a old plug in it that has carbon on it. Get the engine warmed up and hold it wide open in 6th gear down the road for 5 seconds and kill the engine. When you pull the plug look at the ground strap. There should be a distinct line in the center of the 90* bend. If the carbon line is down around the bend towards the threads it's too lean and you can just tape over 2 holes on the air box lid, that will be the same as going up on the main to a #170. If the carbon line is on top of the strap towards the end of the ground strap it's too rich. This should run real close to what your motor should run. If it's still a turd then there is something else wrong, my guess is the CDI advance is burned out. Back in the day we had a fix for the advance on the 85's to advance the timing 5* but it might be better to get a 250x wiring harness and after market cdi if your stock one is bad.

[Big Daddys 350x]

First off let me say if there is ever a 3wheeler get together I can make it to, Boys!! THE BEER IS ON ME!!

Or the beverages are on me whatever you prefer!!

I owe all you guys for the help.

I will try what what Mickey said. Mickey my question would be I just bought a factory air box system for my trike (I didn't have one) is there anyway to do this without cutting my airbox lid?

I would like to do the occasional deep creek crossing. Wink, wink. If not I'll cut that sucker up, most of its time would be spent at the sand dunes.

I live in the northwest corner of Arkansas. A lot of cool trail riding here but I'm about 5 hrs from Little Sahara Sand Dunes in Waynoka, Ok. And that's where my family and I go on atv vacation.

I can't say enough how thankful I am for all the help.

[Big Daddys 350x]

If there is a better ignition option for these trikes. Point me in the right direction and I'll replace it. I believe someone said there is a way to advance timing mechanically?

I'm pretty sure I need to to the jetting first, but if there is a new ignition system or even just a cdi box I would like to replace whatever old parts I can and then just keep them as spares. Going to the sand dunes for a week, I would hate to be over there and one of these old parts go out and leave me sitting it out again, if there are new replacements avail especially if it was a hotter ignition I would think it would be wise to replace.

I am still going to do a compression test and leak down test tomorrow too as well as readjust the valves. I will also recheck my timing. I'm gonna replace the oil pump too because I'm pretty sure it's the factory one and I've been reading here to put a new 300ex op in it. So gonna have to drain oil again. Probably gonna paint filter it and reuse it this time it's about 20 min old.

[atc007]

If you know anyone with a 350X,ask to swap your CDI. Only takes a few minutes,and you'll have a better direction to head. also literally a few minutes swaps the carbs,,well,,once you've done it a 1000 times lol. Don't sweat about the help. You came on here with ZERO attitude genuinely looking for help. And when done in this manner... This is exactly what you will get.

[Mickey Dunlap]

First off let me say if there is ever a 3wheeler get together I can make it to, Boys!! THE BEER IS ON ME!!

Or the beverages are on me whatever you prefer!!

I owe all you guys for the help.

I will try what what Mickey said. Mickey my question would be I just bought a factory air box system for my trike (I didn't have one) is there anyway to do this without cutting my airbox lid?

I would like to do the occasional deep creek crossing. Wink, wink. If not I'll cut that sucker up, most of its time would be spent at the sand dunes.

I live in the northwest corner of Arkansas. A lot of cool trail riding here but I'm about 5 hrs from Little Sahara Sand Dunes in Waynoka, Ok. And that's where my family and I go on atv vacation.

I can't say enough how thankful I am for all the help.

You can run the lid on it, but it will kill the power, it would be like running down the road with duck tape over your mouth. If you do put the lid on drop down on the main jet to about a #145 to #150.

As far as advancing the timing you can cut the flywheel key on the right hand side a 1/8th of a inch half way down so it will still fit tight in the key way but you will be able turn the fly wheel to the left and lock it down. That will give you about 5-6* more advance but it will only see the difference mainly on the bottom because the 350x cdi retards so much. It's not that you need a hotter spark, it's more that you need a different advance curve. That's why I said to go with the 250x stuff. The stock 250x has a better curve but it also has a rev limiter in it so if you can still find a aftermarket cdi for one then that would be best.

There are still things like the pipe that's going to hold it back on top end but you can look at that once you get it running right.

[6speedthumper]

400ex cdi can be used IF you have the 86 stator and flywheel. Ditch that jet kit, and ALWAYS run manufacturer jets. Have never seen a jet kit actually work.

[Dirtcrasher]

I just scrolled thru some of this as I have had some gremlins in a 350X motor myself recently.

1st - You CANNOT change ignition timing.
2nd - You CANNOT change ignition timing.

Your valve timing, you may want to use a degree wheel in which case the sprocket holes can be opened up and dowel pinned for future correct positioning.

I just call WEB and ask for the valve lash and in my case it's .004 and .006. Which one is larger?? The one that gets hotter!!

Now that's out of the way. Although some will argue their points validity; building a motor with 8 upgrades at once can be troublesome.

With the similar thought "make one jetting change at a time", it's the same principal.

You have a 12:1 piston, must run race gas (please don't argue.... ) and usually requires a full fledged race cam which will put the power at the upper range. If you

put a lesser cam in there, they don't like each other and you will not get the benefits and losses of a high compression piston.

Jetting is a difficult task for allot of people. The 1st problem being, where do I start my jetting with these components??

The 2nd problem being jets are 5$ a pop and honestly, I have 500.00$ in jets for 3 models and it's not enough; Unless I get lucky.

I'll share a problem that kept my pride and glory 350RX dead from Trikefest 14 to last week. I stuck it in a corner and got the 200x flying!!

Back up a bit and "all I did" was put a clutch in it. This was not true, but due to my own actions I forgot I changed the stator cover.

I was losing compression on start up and thats because I learned 3 months later that I learned that aside from torque specs, I don't normally need many manual references. I lined up all the dots, however, thats not how it goes, refer to manual. So bing bang fixed right?? Nope, DOA again.

So here is something 'm willing to bet very few of you know. Part 1 - there are NO definite 85 flywheels/stators in an 85 or 86. Owning half a dozen take out motors told me this.

But, what DOES FIT is the "so called 86 flywheel" OVER an 85 stator but not the other way around. So, I had changed the cover because I scratched the sh!t out of the 86 cover and inadvertently placed a LARGER ID flywheel over the 85 "type" stator that was in a take out motor untouched. And it gave a small spark that was weak. Put the correct flywheel on, 1 kick - vrooooom.

Headpipe glowed like crazy so the pilot and fuel screw are certainly in need of attention.

That motor took me 5X to figure out what I had done wrong, but I learned from it........

[Big Daddys 350x]

I seen a new cdi for sale from ricks motorsports. But if the 250x has a better curve maybe I should go that way.

So if I get an 86 flywheel and an 86 stator I can run 400ex cdi. My wife has a 400 ex.

[Dirtcrasher]

Screw the CDI, get that stock CDI and jetting and also degree in the cam. It's not expensive or hard to do; Call WEB or MEGACYCLE.

Your chasing a demon and making MORE changes.

Just like me, I got mine running, THEN knew I had a small jetting issue. But, I didn't mess with it until I spent 20 minutes on my track racing it and ensuring everything was in time and powerful/strong.

That motor has a 10.25 : 1 piston and a mid - range cam. The FCR carb is light years beyond any sparks 400EX carb or OEM 400EX carb that are common swaps. Mine is a 39MM and thanks to HALLS EXTREME PERFORMANCE, just like him, I tossed it on and it ran great right off the bat aside from the lean pilot\ - chicken!

However, if you change the carb until it runs right, your repeating the same mistakes; small changes at a time....

With a 4poke, you can get away with some lean jetting but you have to recognize that and deal with it soon. And leaner is meaner; I also don't know what your plug looks like. I don't always need a WOT hit the kill switch to read the plug, rather I run it for a bit throughout the whole range and see what the plug looks like after a few hours of beating on it.

On the track I am 1/2 to WOT so the pilot doesn't do crap and it can wait....

[jays375]

My Sparks 39mm FCR which they sell as a kit for a 400ex works awesome!