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Thread: 1977 atc90 carb issues

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Oregon
    --
    3

    1977 atc90 carb issues

    Just acquired a 1977 atc90 that had been sitting for a few years. Bike was said to be running when parked. When I got it, I thoroughly cleaned out the tank, replaced gas lines to carb with clear gas lines and added an inline filter. After taking the carb apart and cleaning the bowl, jets, as well as the little filter in the side of the bowl, I put everything back together. Also put in a new spark plug. When I turned the gas on, after about 30 seconds, gas started slowly dripping out the back intake side of the carb. So I took it apart again, inspected the float, then tweaked the tab on the float that presses on the needle valve and made sure it made a tight seal when the bowl was full to not allow gas through.
    Once put back together again, when I turned on the gas petcock, it didn't leak where it had before. After a minute or so, i gave it full choke, and it started after 3-4 pulls. It runs on full choke and will idle on its own, but refuses to stay running when I back off on the choke.
    I am trying to tune this carb to avoid buying a new $50 carb. Does anyone know the factory settings on the idle speed/mixture screws? How many turns out, etc.
    goal is to obviously make bike idle on its own, and respond to throttle response.
    Help? Has anyone found a fix to this issue?
    Thank you

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    South Dakota, Sioux Falls area
    --
    60
    My first suspicion would be the float tab that you adjusted. Improper float height can cause some running issues. If the float is too low you're carbs will not fill fully with gas causing less gas to get to the motor causing a lean condition. By running on choke it cuts off some of the air flow allowing the motor to run. When you turn the choke off too much air is getting to the engine and killing it. This is just my thoughts and I'm no expert, but I would start with getting a new float needle, adjusting the float tab back to where it was and starting there. I'm not sure about screw adjustments but here's a link to service manuals that should provide that info. http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/ Good luck!
    83 200x - auto-x - wide axle
    84 200x - long term project
    78 XS750
    82 XJ750
    08 Sportster 883

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Brownsville, Tn.
    --
    1,271
    The proper way to adjust the air and idle is to screw the air all the way in and idle it up until it will stay running. Then slowly open the air while backing off the idle until it smooths out. Usually the air is out around a half to three quarters of a turn.
    * 1978 ATC 90/180 Pauter PJ1 / Springer "Team BAPP" Bike *

    * 1980 ATC 110/180 "Danny's Machine Works" 3D Sprint Dune Bike *

    * Nicholson 500 Race Bike *

    * HPATC Yamaha RD350 "Big Moe" Trike *

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    mo
    --
    327
    Also check your compression. My 90 acted like that and i had a snapped ring.
    http://www.youtube.com/user/effortequalsresults
    83 atc 110
    77 atc 90
    80 atc 110
    85 200x
    85 200x
    87 250es
    79 atc 110
    1978 atc90
    1985 200s
    1985 atc70
    1983 atc 70

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,013
    I can safely say if you plan on owning one of these machines you;ll need a manual. They are available for download on this site. Get your float height right (somewhere around 20mm if i remember correctly) and pre-adjust your air/idle as the manual states. Then you'll have somewhere to start.
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

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