1984 Honda ATC 110 only runs ok with full choke

[pinkt]

Hello,

I've cleaned the carb twice, 2nd time I put a kit in it - new seals, jets (stock - 35 pilot, 82 main), and needles. Blew carb cleaner and compressed air through all carb body passages. Adjusted the timing. New air filter (oiled properly), not OE, but looks very similar with 2 different densities, gray fine inner, and yellow course outer. Have piece of radiator hose clamped between carb and air-box - seems sealed up - that's the way I got it. Sprayed carb cleaner while running to check for leaks. Ran it with the cas cap removed. It starts great, idles fine, revs up good at first, but if I start pumping / revving it will act like no fuel / kill if I let it. Ridding it with choke off, it seems good for the 1st part of the throttle, but if I continue to slowly give it gas, it cuts out. If I put the choke on (lever up) at that point it's back to life and running decent. I could just run it with the choke on, but that bugs me. These little Hondas are supposed to purr like kittens, but I'm out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated - thanks.

[86125m]

The radiator hose connecting the air box to the carb bugs me and could be the root of the problem. Was it running good before you cleaned and put a carb kit in it. Also try cleaning the carb again you might have missed something.

[86125m]

Oh how did you adjust the timing because you can't properly adjust the timing without a timing light.

[pinkt]

Not sure what to use as an alternative to the radiator hose, the original part doesn't seem to be available. No, it wasn't running when I bought it. The guy said it had a petcock leak and had the petcock off. He sprayed starting fluid into the carb tube and it fired right up, and sounded (idling) nice for a couple seconds, so I took a chance on it. I could try cleaning the carb again, but when spray goes through all the passages, I'm guessing it's making it through the new jets as well. Maybe I'll give it the Pine Sol soak.

[pinkt]

Timing light was used. Could see F mark moving upward with throttle, which I understand indicates that the timing advance mechanism is working. I was a bit off, but now appears to be spot on, but it made no difference.

[86125m]

Try cleaning the original jets out and and putting them back into the carb. I don't trust cheap aftermarket kits everyone I have gotten has been junk and I end up putting the old ones back in. For the air boot your going to have to find a used one on ebay if it isn't available. I don't know about pinesol but the carb cleaning bucket baths are amazing they cost around 20 bucks but last for a long time. Just put all the jets and carb body in the bath overnight and they should be clean just remember to take any plastic or rubber parts out as they will go become unusable this include the needle seat jet. Dont buy a new hose until you try to clean and tune the carb a few more times.

[Samjp22]

and when cleaning the jets run a fin piece of wire through it and all the holes, you may have carb cleaner spraying out the other end but might not be coming out all of them

[pinkt]

Try cleaning the original jets out and and putting them back into the carb. I don't trust cheap aftermarket kits everyone I have gotten has been junk and I end up putting the old ones back in. For the air boot your going to have to find a used one on ebay if it isn't available. I don't know about pinesol but the carb cleaning bucket baths are amazing they cost around 20 bucks but last for a long time. Just put all the jets and carb body in the bath overnight and they should be clean just remember to take any plastic or rubber parts out as they will go become unusable this include the needle seat jet. Dont buy a new hose until you try to clean and tune the carb a few more times.

Thanks for all the info guys. I have it soaking in Beryman Chemtool right now, it's the stuff your'e supposed to pour in your cars gas tank. I opted for that because it was cheaper and I didn't want a gallon of stuff siting around. Now I'm wondering if it's going to work as good as the dip...maybe I should have went for that. Also, I have seen I could buy a new China carb for around $20 (similar cost to the bucket of dip), but it sounds like you guys are down on the China stuff. I am too, but just trying to get this little POS running with minimal investment. It's going to need front sprocket too, so trying to take it one step at a time.

[Boostedb16a]

Check your intake gaskets both of them mine was close to the same sprayed and got nothing but once I rode it around or revved it up I shut it down and both were saturated in fuel. I had cleaned the carb tried 3 different carbs checked my float hieght changed it tried new points checked my advance etc nothing worked but once I changed those 2 gaskets my headache ended it now idles and no bogging really at all carbs set 2 turns out from seated and clip on the 4th from top of needle. I've literally check everything the only other thing I have is valve lash on mine and only reason I haven't is because I've been enjoying it but plan to do it tomorrow.

[86125m]

I run these carbs http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-C...f21c27&vxp=mtr
In two of my bikes with no problems they are a direct bolt and are almost identical to the original carbs. They use a Japanese carb kit and are jetted correctly for each particular bike. Just really good carbs and the only aftermarket carbs I will ever use

[pinkt]

Are you talking about the fiber gaskets on both ends of the aluminum manifold tube that goes from the carb to the engine head, or which?

[pinkt]

I run these carbs http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-C...f21c27&vxp=mtr
In two of my bikes with no problems they are a direct bolt and are almost identical to the original carbs. They use a Japanese carb kit and are jetted correctly for each particular bike. Just really good carbs and the only aftermarket carbs I will ever use

Yea, that might be a next step...$24 for a new carb. I cleaned and put mine back on after soaking 24 hours. It seems to rev somewhat better off idle, but still needs choke for full throttle operation. One weird thing is now if I turn the air screw all the way in, it idles higher, and if I screw it all the way out it will die down. Prior to this last clean and reassembly, it would die down when screwed in and have no effect screwing it out. I hope to hear back from Boostedb 16a to see which gasket made the difference for him before I go for the new carb...thanks!

[86125m]

What sounds funny to me is that your bike is doing the opposite of what its supposed to. When the choke is on it should make the engine sputter and die after giving it gas. Where I'm getting at is are you sure your mistaking choke on for choke off because choke on is the lever in the up position and choke off is the lever in the down position. And the carb idel screw is know working right the carb must have still had trash in it.

[Flossyb20]

Either not enough fuel (clogged jet) or air leak between carb and engine...

[Boostedb16a]

The paper gaskets on the tube from the head and to the carb mine looked great just saturated in gas so I replaced em and its all good