Email- onformula1@hotmail.com Rebuilt, Revalved, custom springs, lowering, forks & shocks, Custom Suspension, all brands, 2-3-4 wheeler's- PM or Email with questions.
***Check out my album for cool pictures*** http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=2527
As always- Everything I post is IMHO.
So how does it run?
2-stroke lover
Have a ball out there! Say hi to everyone for me !
Please help those who cannot help themselves.
ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.
I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!
Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.
Planning to build another engine, so I figured I may as well just extend this thread.
Started with looking for an un-cracked clutch cover to mothball for the future. After a few eBay disappointments I lucked into a complete bottom end less kick lever. The eBay photos didn't show the cover, so I thought what the heck, lets see what I can get for $150 bucks. Ended up being a compete bottom end with an un-cracked clutch cover, but it had sat with an half inch of water in it for a good while, so all the steel parts were pretty nasty. There was one broken bolt deep in the clutch cover, but I managed to weld it to a nut and then a screw driver and spun it out.
The cases were pretty rough, but the only damage was a tab that holds a retention spring on the kicker. Was thinking of getting it welded, or just replacing the case half, but I don't think the tab is really stressed (so why did it break) Decided to try some JB Weld. Pretty pleased with the results.
This is what it should look like (Thanks Oldskool)
I don't have a photo of the missing tab, but it cracked off pretty deep. I blocked and taped off the surrounding areas with cardboard and masking tape and filled up the void with JB Weld
Let it sit for a couple days and then ground out the cardboard and tape with a die grinder and finished up with a Dremel.
I think it came out pretty good. I'll have to mock it up with the hardware and see if it holds before I commit to getting it bored. If I have any doubts maybe it will be replaced with a different case half.
![]()
Last edited by El Camexican; 09-29-2017 at 08:21 PM.
Jemco out of Houston. Go back into this thread and you'll find a page on it. Not sure how it compares to a DG as I made a lot of engine mods before putting it on, but I still have a couple DG's on the wall. It's the pipe I'll be trying first when (if) I get a 350 put together. I make it look like that by sanding it silver with fine grit paper and then using a propane torch to blue the welds.
Unfortunately I heard some bad things about Jemco's quality recently. A guy on Tecate FB bought a pipe and the welds looked like tooth paste and some weren't even finished. It took forever to get the pipe, too. I'm pretty committed to getting a 350 kit for my Z. I might even take the engine out this weekend. If I need a bigger pipe I'd like the Jemco as an option, but I have some reservations after seeing that.
I can't say I'd buy another from them if there were other options.
Regarding that base gasket, is it thicker? or just better sealing?
The reason I ask is that there was a new gasket on the bike I bought..but it leaks at the base gasket, no matter if it was tourqed down to spec. Someone somewhere here mentioned the Tri Z cylinders are often warped and will not seal, is there any truth to that?
I need all the help I can get!
It does seem to be high quality, but the thickness is the same as what I got in a kit. Regardless, If yours won't seal, a better quality base gasket won't help.
I'm working on some cases right now. I've removed the studs and plan to lap my cylinder to the case with valve gringing compound. I try to lap in all cases and covers if possible. Unless yours is really our of whack you can try that, but removing the studs isn't easy and the two on the left side are discontinued, so don't ruin them.
Where is your leak? If it's where the case halves meet a dab of Yamabond on the case and gaskets might do the trick. You could also seal the entire thing with Yamabond, but I'd want to know where the problem was before deciding that was the way to correct it.
![]()
My bargain clutch cover being made pretty. I like to get rid of all the casting ridges in the cooling system. I don't know the exact math, but if there's a 1mm ridge all around a 17mm opening that has to represent a fairly large impedance.
Same treatment for the inlet.
All casting lines and ridges were removed and it was sanded smooth with 320 grit inside and out.
Semigloss Ford Black
![]()