250R Brake Hose Clamp

[onformula1]

Want to have some fun?

Sand the brake caliper fins down to bare aluminum for the trick- "Factory works Look"

[Flyingw]

Don't put thoughts like that in my head...... AWWW CRAP!!!!!!

[onformula1]

I sand every fin, brake calipers front and rear if possible & air cooled cylinders and heads.

Trick "Works look" better cooling, more cooling surface area.

And its lighter for better wheelies...

[Flyingw]

That should be good for another 5MPH. Thank God the rear doesn't have any fins.

[onformula1]

NICE!, Sorry I couldn't see that in the pic.

What no stainless steel safety wire on that banjo bolt?

[Flyingw]

After I fill and bleed the brakes will I safety wire that bolt. I have to be in a mood to bleed brakes.

[Flyingw]

I have to drill a small hole in both caliper bodies to anchor the safety wire but I have good spots on both.

[onformula1]

FYI, Honda CR 12mm dimple bolts work great to drill for safety wire.

Have you used a VAC-U-PUMP to bleed brakes? They work great, only thing I will use.

Don't forget the synthetic brake fluid.

I like-

https://www.motul.com/system/product...pdf?1340124817

It works great, does not fade (617 degrees F) or boil, bleeds clean, more braking power and if your system is clean it will stay clean forever.

[Flyingw]

I have a drilling jig for drilling safety wire holes. I have to be careful because my OCD may kick in and I might be inclined to drill the crap out of a bunch of bolts. I have a vacuum pump but bleeding at the banjos seems to work well once I get all the hidden air bubbles out. I just hate the brake fluid mess that usually comes with bleeding brakes and I do have synthetic fluid standing by.

[Flyingw]

Right now I'm on hold for a replacement swingarm. My buddy has the replacement so I'm just waiting for it to come back. The one issue I'm debating on now is the aftermarket radiators are taller than the stock ones and when the tank is in place, I cant get the cap off without having to unbolt the tank at the front. That's a pain. I'm throwing around the idea of using quick release ball pins if I can find the right ones.

[onformula1]

How about making a simple system like this, that lowers the center of gravity (Helpful to a 250R)

http://www.dubachracing.com/cart/ind...oducts_id=1808

I first saw them in about 1986 on Bob Hurricane Hannah's factory works RM250.

[onformula1]

Possible alternative-

I would do both-

If you use Water Wetter & distilled water (No coolant) you don't have to check the level much, if ever.

Runs cooler, better heat dissipation, longer water pump seal life.

[Flyingw]

I have been running ICE since I built it in 09 but the one consistent problem I've had with Whiskey Bent is overheating on high rev slow moving trails. I fattened up the jetting a bit and coupled with the over-sized radiators hope this problem is a thing of the past. Running open country with plenty of air moving through the radiators the temp is stable. Its the slow trails on a hot day that always get it.

[Flyingw]

I may give water wetter a try. Concentrate or premixed?

[onformula1]

I may give water wetter a try. Concentrate or premixed?

Run it the way the directions call for. Distilled water only.

If you have a way to check the temp. (Looks like you do)

Fattening up the jetting one clip on the needle and/or one on the main jet may help.

Up the octane of your fuel.

And/or try to slow down your coolant flow, as a test- wrap a coolant hose that goes to the water pump with a rubber scrap hose piece and put a zip tie around it and keep tightening it a bit and see if the temp. goes down, on many trikes the slower coolant flow dissipates more heat through the radiators.

Anyways check for air leaks.

I have run 250r's in arizona, soaking wet (Me) for hours in the Arizona or Glamis summers for hours with no problems.