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Thread: 85 225dx. Clunking, Electrical, and More!

  1. #1
    toki is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Jul 2011
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    85 225dx. Clunking, Electrical, and More!

    Picked this gem up from a guy at work for a damn good price a few weeks ago. I have a pretty big trip planned in a few months and I'd like to bring this as my main machine but it has a few issues. It starts right up, didnt rattle or clunk or anything. zero smoke. great compression. i scoped the cylinder and you can still see all the cross hatching.

    #1 in the past week it has developed a rather loud clunking from the bottom end. at idle or riding in first gear it is fine. no noises at all on accel or decel. get into second and it starts clunking, the higher the gear and the faster the speed the louder the clunk. it seems to be relative to engine RPM and not drivetrain speed, the clunk does not get faster with speed just louder. it shifts fine. it stays in gear. it doesnt burn the clutch at takeoff.... buuut.... I have since taken the clutches out, measured per FSM requirements, and inspected stuff. Fibers appear good and measure at ~3mm (manual states 2.8mm wear limit) and the basket looks good. the centrifugal clutch on the other hand looks buggered. i'm getting that the shoes are worn 2x past the wear limit and the drum itself is HEAVILY grooved. also i was able to spin the nut off of the clutch by hand after knocking the keeper tab down! SO. before i go buying a new clutch... what are the odds that that was my clunking? could the one way bearing be bad enough, the clutch be loose enough without the nut tight, and the drum be so worn.... that it clunks like a under load?

    #2 It wont charge the battery. everything stator ohms out fine so my guess is the rec/reg is shot. i couldn't find any test stuff for it in my manual. anyone got any info? also... whats the rating on the charging side of things? The lights are run off a regulated AC circuit. the DC is just for charging the battery. I would like to change that up and run and LED headlight and Taillight. even tho they would be led lights would that be too much for the dc circuit?

    so. all in all. I know a timberwolf clutch will work. but.... will a newer one work? like say... a 2008 big bear 250? either way im replacing that clutch, torquing it all down, and praying that was my clunking. thoughts? wana tell me im done? you here jack?!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mosh View Post
    I routinely spill Hot McDonalds coffee in my crotch, just to ease the numbness of everyday society..

  2. #2
    Dave8338's Avatar
    Dave8338 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
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    Central MN
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    No clue as to your issues on that machine but do want to say... MAN, those things are sexy !

    One thought if the clutch doesn't fix it: U-Joint ?
    The Goal... All I Need Is The Time...

  3. #3
    toki is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    wisconsin
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    158
    thats my next plan if its still clunky. NOT looking forward to pulling the swingarm tho lol. I really need to get some blaster hubs, rims and some different tires. those are just too much.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mosh View Post
    I routinely spill Hot McDonalds coffee in my crotch, just to ease the numbness of everyday society..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Central PA
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    2,362
    Pulling the swing arm isn't bad at all. Remove the swing arm bolt, disconnect the brakes, remove the bolt for the shock, and loosen the shaft boot and it all comes sliding out nice and easy.

    I pulled my swing arm when I pulled my engine for a rebuild to make it easier. Its no biggie.

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