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Thread: Brake Pad school....I need some advice

  1. #1
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    Brake Pad school....I need some advice

    Ok I tried to do a search first but couldn`t find anything definitive.

    I spent a lot of money on offroad brake pads over a lifetime so I`m no stranger to the life expectancy of these things. I also know that longevity is directly proportional to the type of riding and the terrain along with other factors like water, sand, mud,etc.

    I bought some spares before TF last year and I got four or five different brands of aftermarket pads because the deal was cheap....yeah, I know.... One set was EBC which lasted the longest but I can`t remember the specific compound. The problem was that every set I bought claimed to be "heavy duty" or "severe duty" but the result was a WIDELY different amount of longevity between, what seemed to be, similar compounds.

    I like to save a few bux with pads because they are the fastest thing to wear out on any atv or dirtbike however I`m not sure I am saving any money by buying the cheapo sets.

    I did get a set of these:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/350775358191...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    It says sintered bronze and "severe duty" I hope these last longer than the last set of cheap pads which was about four hours at TF riding the back forty and the creek with no skidplate to keep the rotor out of the sand and mud.

    Point of this thread............I need some opinions based on experience

    1)What is the best pad compound to use and why?
    2) best brand name?
    3) are the more expensive pads worth $30+ ?

  2. #2
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    I don't have any suggestions on pads, but I do have an idea. If you have hydraulic brakes, you could switch over the caliper from a dirt bike. The bigger pad for those calipers should give more life and probably better stopping power.
    I just wanna go fast. If you're not first, you're last!!
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  3. #3
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    I do have KX and CR calipers on it now front and rear. I also ordered a skidplate to get the rotor out of the dirt so that should help one major issue.

  4. #4
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    Sintered metal pads are the longest lasting in my experience. The carbon and organic pads can't handle any mud or sand at all. I've had good luck with the Tusk sintered metal pads from Rocky Mountain Atv, cheap and seem to last as long as anything I have tried.

  5. #5
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    Metal pads tend to cause more heat to a rotor and can cause warping or will certainly cause faster wearing of the rotor. I would so much rather spend $20 on a set of pads than $75 and 2 hours on a rotor.


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  6. #6
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    I agree with Oscar.

    When I said dirt bike, I was tired. I meant sport bike/crotch rocket**.
    I just wanna go fast. If you're not first, you're last!!
    Building performance CDIs for the Yamaha Tri-Z, Yamaha Tri-Moto, Kawasaki Tecate, and more.
    Plug and play with brand new timing curves.

    NastyFastParts.com

    You can also find me on Facebook and YouTube under Nasty Fast Parts.

  7. #7
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    EBC or Braking are my favorite brands, I like organic 2 type pads with kevlar/carbon they stop great and wear well.

    IMHO good brakes that stop are the second most important item on a trike or bike, Tires are first, but I live on the west coast where it's tough to sniff mud & water so wear is not much of a problem.

    Sintered metal or Sintered Bronze pads will last longer with less stopping power, better in the mud.

    If you are going through that many pads, that fast there can be a problem with the caliper piston not riding smoothly in the bore or a cocked piston, I am assuming this is not your problem and your trike is up to snuff.

    If your brakes have a squeaking problem, bevel the leading & trailing edge on the pad material at a 45 degree angle 1/16". (you don't have to go crazy)

    To correct your problem you need a- mud-proof solid disc rear rotor like this-

    http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...isc-rear-rotor

    Problem over. Don't worry about them getting to hot, they have been tested/used by the best enduro riders in the world for 25+ years, If they last the ISDE 6-Days International Enduro, you will be fine.

    For any brake set-up always bleed the brakes every 1-3 months (Depending on how much you ride) and use synthetic brake fluid with a rating of 300C or higher (Motul is may favorite) also only use synthetic high temp grease on the pins.

    If you add stainless steel brake lines you will now have brakes set-up for 2015, not 1985.
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  8. #8
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    Come to think of it my Polaris has solid rotors and the pads on it do last much longer.

    I keep my pins lubed but now that you mention it, probably not with the right grease. I know the calipers are sluggish in cold weather because cold makes that grease congeal and become sticky till it warms up

    Also my lines are rubber. Rear is off a 400ex and the front off a modern dirtbike. I have been meaning to get braided stainless so I guess now I have an excuse. I have seen the mounting plate get bent which splays the pins and locks the caliper so Ill go check for that too and also see if those caliper pistons move freely.

    Great replies guys. Keep 'em coming. Thnks
    Last edited by ironchop; 04-25-2015 at 09:43 AM.

  9. #9
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    Mobil 1 high temp synthetic grease with one tube of anti seize mixed in works great on everything except suspension seals and air filters, no more stuck brake pins, linkage or axles. Works great in cold or hot weather. Its a bit pricy at like $15 plus anti seize your at $20 bucks, but you get what you pay for.

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  10. #10
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    Ive got a bottle of Anti Seize so all I would have to buy is the Mobil 1

  11. #11
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    that is great stuff, I started using it and it works awesome! I wish they sold it in grease gun tubes, would have saved a new set of bearings on my son's quad.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by oscarmayer View Post
    that is great stuff, I started using it and it works awesome! I wish they sold it in grease gun tubes, would have saved a new set of bearings on my son's quad.
    I have it in a tube-

    https://mobiloil.com/en/synthetic-gr...nthetic-grease

    I add in one bottle of this, but that is just between you and me!

    http://shop.noleenj6.com/product.sc?...&categoryId=13

    At $10 bucks plus shipping it is pricy but nothing is better! (I have tried everything) Downfall? try getting this slick teflon snot off your hands!
    Email- onformula1@hotmail.com Rebuilt, Revalved, custom springs, lowering, forks & shocks, Custom Suspension, all brands, 2-3-4 wheeler's- PM or Email with questions.

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  13. #13
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    on ebay, I just ordered a set of 12 pairs of carbon Kevlar rear pads for $32 shipped.
    so buck up, order a 12 pair count and your set for the next 5 years!
    15 min can save you 15% more wear on your rotors.
    ________________
    I'm just a squirrel "Trying" to get a nut!

    Nearly every kind of Honda ATC (plus some custom ones
    several Yami Quads (mostly custom built for MX racing)

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    "Freedom is not free...but the U.S. Marine Corps will pay most of your share."

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by oscarmayer View Post
    on ebay, I just ordered a set of 12 pairs of carbon Kevlar rear pads for $32 shipped.
    so buck up, order a 12 pair count and your set for the next 5 years!
    15 min can save you 15% more wear on your rotors.
    Have a link?

    $2.67 a pair, shipped is crazy

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    As always- Everything I post is IMHO.

  15. #15
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    http://www.ebay.com/itm/141076649149...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
    $32.89 shipped.

    Enjoy!!

    these don to have metallic so they will not wear your rotor out like semi metallic stuff.
    ________________
    I'm just a squirrel "Trying" to get a nut!

    Nearly every kind of Honda ATC (plus some custom ones
    several Yami Quads (mostly custom built for MX racing)

    https://www.mikesatvfix.com

    "Freedom is not free...but the U.S. Marine Corps will pay most of your share."

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