'80 honda atc 110 headlight

[tylermaylone]

Trying to get my headlights to work after adding a toggle switch. The taillight works so I know there is power in the wiring. But why aren't either of the beams working on the headlight? The bulb is good. Could the socket assembly be bad? How would I check that?

[tri again]

Maybe try a 99 cent test light with an alligator clip for ground and
a pointy probe to poke through wire insulation.
Can also check contacts inside the bulb socket with it.
Are there any fuses on those machines?

edit: just saw your previous post. more good info on that one.
Nice to keep them together if you can.
Shortline knows his stuff.
You DID have headlight and now you don't.
I'd just take a deep breath and clean ALL contacts especially grounds
and more grounds

[tylermaylone]

Thanks. I figured it out. Loose wiring in the back. My next question is, if I don't have both bulbs running at the same time, is it immanent that the front or rear bulb will burn out? I had the taillight bulb out and ran the headlight and it burned out in seconds.

[tri again]

Yupp, that's what shortline was talking about.
That's why it helps to keep adding to a thread instead of starting new ones.

The trail 90's and lots of other use the battery to powersoak ac pulses
and additive resistance between bulbs to keep from
overpowering them.
I wonder if just increasing the headlight wattage would be the same as
having both head and tail in the circuit?
and why isn't there a simple capacitor in line to soak filament popping power surges?

Now you got me thinking.
ac voltage out of the stator, no regulator or diode on these?