The internal threads on the flywheel are gone by the way, so I tried a pully remover. I think it's time to take it to someone and get it done.
The internal threads on the flywheel are gone by the way, so I tried a pully remover. I think it's time to take it to someone and get it done.
As with every component I've dealt with on this bike, whoever owned it before obviously removed the flywheel. I'm taking a stab in the dark and saying an external puller was used, because the inside if the crank end, is mangled, and there are no large threads left to put the proper tool on. I suppose I'm no better as I attempted the same. I'm going to have to split the case one more level to get two arms onto the flywheel, as only one will currently fit. I'm also going to look into the origional motor and see what was up with it. I'll assume the current engine is a 200e as it has high low, but the origional was a 200m.
So with both engines, I have established what I believe to be the issue. The timing chain. I can not get it tight enough. It's very loose. When I turn the engine over the chain "skips" on the front side of the engine. Not skipping a tooth but like it has too much play and binds a little. The tensioner will not make it any better. Also, if I line the cam up (dot to head mark) the flywheel T is quite far to the left of the viewing hole. Not even close. But if I line up the flywheel T line up first, the cam dot is half a link off to the right of the head mark. Have you ran into this Barnett?
ok, as you mentioned, your flywheel might be off on the one bike so a definitive conclusion on the chain is hard to come to on that one until the flywheel timing is looked at.
as far as the play in the chain goes, yes they could both be stretched too far OR the tensioner could be bad, or the long rubber coated chain guides might be excessively worn etc.
imo, the most logical thing to do which i tell everyone, is to fix every obvious problem you find when you find it, because that could be the cause of a problem or at least one of the contributors to the problem, but even if it is not, they still have to be fixed anyway.
i just had an experience with another person somewhere, that had a very obvious prob, and they absolutely refused to do a 5 minute and $5.00 part change, because even though it was blatantly obvious to me and others that this needed to be done, they were convinced that we had no idea what we were talking about . . i just don't see why some people ask for advice because they don't know how to fix their prob, then don't take the advice that is offered because they think it is wrong, lol
Anyway, this is not the case with you at all, it just amused me, plus i just thought i would mention it because sometimes its not just one problem causing an issue, so there is no point in trying to find just one cause . . i have had cases where you fix this and the vehicle runs better, then you fix that and it runs better then after you fix several little things, it runs fine.
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I checked not via key way but the mark in relation to the piston with a fancy zip tie through the plug hole. It seems good. I aquired a three mm bolt and inserted it into the tensioner to further tighten the chain and the weird skip thing stopped. Thanks d ray's YouTube channel haha. But I wish I could put pictures and video on here but it won't upload. That would certainly help you out deciphering my canadian storytelling
you can download a video to youtube then just post the url here and we can go yo youtube to see it . . we could also look it up on youtube by the title etc.
im guessing by the fact that you didnt answer my question about your bearings is because you beat the crap out of the flywheel with a hammar or used a slide hammar?
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I answered your bearing question. The previous owner demolished the internal threads on the flywheel they're all but gone. Judging by the damage I'd say an external puller was used. I attempted the same. It was quite clear it won't come off that way. But I'm out of options that way.