12V LED Headlight on an AC Generator based machine (185s/200)

[ps2fixer]

I'm looking for a little help to make sure I get things right for the requirements of making a regulator work for an 1983 ATC200, but should be the same or similar for other machines like the ATC185s.

Wire diagram: https://gyazo.com/627c1477c0b62940db176ef81cf1ccd0

Since I make harnesses, I'd like to make an "inline" regulator adapter for this machine. I have a customer that bought an LED headlight from me and they are trying to get it to work correctly on the 83 atc200. I suspect the best place for the inline regulator would be right at the AC Generator 3 wire plug. I understand the basics how the regulator works, but don't really know the difference between a 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 wire regulator, I suspect it depends how the AC power is generated and the output is always 2 wires, and some ground though the case of the regulator. I'd like to wire up one that grounds via the green wire if that is an option, and 2 wires come off the ac generator (yellow + green).

So what I'm trying to get at, is, is it possible to wire in a regulator inline at that 3 wire plug, or would it take a pretty major require to pull this off? Maybe the black wire is required too, not fully sure. I don't want to cause issues for the CDI either. I don't have a machine on hand to test anything on, so any help would be great.

I'm finding quite a few regulators intended for Chinese quads for pretty cheap, I know Chinese quality isn't the greatest, but it would be an option. Most I find are 4 wire, some are 5 wire.

Thanks for any help/comments!

[f76]

It's really quite simple. On the 3 wire plug you mention, you use the yellow and green wire as inputs to a single phase rectifier/regulator. I highly recommend this unit:
http://www.rickystator.com/product/o...tifier-w-relay
I have used it twice converting ac power to dc for led lights. The trail tech unit has two yellow wires for inputs, that's where you connect the yellow and green wire from the stator. Do not touch the black wire as that is your ignition.
The rectifier will have 3 wires for outputs, red, black, and yellow/red. Red and black will be your dc positive and ground, the yellow/red is a delayed power that I highly doubt you will use. You will then use either a battery or large capacitor to smooth out the voltage.
I used this capacitor on my 350x: http://www.rickystator.com/product/o...item/capacitor
You would then connect the red and black wires to red and black on the capacitor or battery. You then connect the yellow wire from the light switch to the positive on your capacitor or battery. Connect the battery or capacitor ground to the frame. You will then have dc power to the lights that is frame ground.

If you use a battery you have the luxury of power to the lights without the machine running, but you then need to rig up a battery box.

[jb2wheels]

I have LEDs running on 4 different AC generator trikes.

On the 85 250R and 85 350X, I just plugged them in because these come from the factory with a regulator. Not applicable here I believe.

On the 86 TRX70 and the 85 Tecate, I added the 2-wire type regulator to the power source wire between the stator and the switch.

I did not add a battery or capacitor or convert to DC.

[ps2fixer]

I'm not the greatest with creating diagrams, but does this look correct? Looking at it, the yellow goes nowhere except the lights, my eyes were playing tricks on me, I swear i saw the yellow wire going to the CDI too lol. I labeled the regulator wire colors directly on the regulator, and the wire harness side by the wires.

I'll probably go with the capacitor route, and hopefully be able to make a fairly simple adapter. The battery/cap would be grounded though the green wire since there is no starter or anything that would draw enough power to require large battery cables or a direct to frame ground (steel isn't that great of a conductor anyway).

Thanks for the input!

[f76]

Your wiring diagram is correct.

[JustEnough]

From what I have seen, the electric start models use a lighting coil with a higher output voltage than the pullstart-only models and then the regulator limits the output to 12v. I think that means that if you add a regulator-rectifier to the lighting coil circuit of a pull start-only model, you may be falling below 12v at low RPM.

[ps2fixer]

Your wiring diagram is correct.

Thanks for validating , hopefully it will be useful to others as well.

From what I have seen, the electric start models use a lighting coil with a higher output voltage than the pullstart-only models and then the regulator limits the output to 12v. I think that means that if you add a regulator-rectifier to the lighting coil circuit of a pull start-only model, you may be falling below 12v at low RPM.

From my research, that is somewhat correct. At idle the alternator/generator does not make enough voltage to give lights their full brightness. I didn't see anywhere that mentioned actual voltage readings, but I'd suspect it would be around the 12v mark. With a battery the lights dim less because the battery is draining slightly providing the slightly higher than 12v that a fully charged battery provides (12.6v if i remember right). A reved up engine would be limited to around 13.6v. I'd have to look at the LED light specs again, but I think the min voltage is 10-12v and a max of either 24v or 48v.

I'm not sure if the battery vs no battery machines have a different generator output or not, I'd suspect ones with a battery would have a larger output for the fact it has to provide lights + charge the battery, but that is measured in watts not volts.