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Thread: Honda 200x running too rich

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Swisher, IA
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    92

    Honda 200x running too rich

    I have a 1985 Honda 200x and I think it is getting too much fuel. When I give it gas, it will cut out a few times while accelerating, then when I let off the gas it pops and backfires like it is getting too much fuel. I took apart the carb and cleaned it and it didnt help anything. The original carb wasnt in the best shape and needed a new gasket but it was actually cheaper just to order a new carb. I put the new carb on and it did the same thing. I adjusted the pilot screw that controls the air/fuel mix and I ended up screwing it all the way in and still nothing happened. I will be posting the link below for the carb I bought. Since it is not working the way I want it to and adjusting the pilot screw isn't helping, I am considering sending it back and ordering a different brand of carb. Other than that, I cannot think of any other problems that would be causing my trike to run this way. Any help and information is appreciated.

    Link for the carburetor I bought: http://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-ATC...00x+carburetor

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
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    4,738
    That's a Chinese knockoff. They are erratic at best from my experience. Take your OEM carb, which is far superior, throughly clean it and order a shindy rebuild kit from eBay.
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    Need something blasted or polished or both? Send me a PM

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Swisher, IA
    --
    92
    Thank you for your advice. I will try that and see how it works.

  4. #4
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Jan 2013
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    well if it were me, i would work with your carb a little more.

    since you said both carbs do the same thing, i would check the compression, check the valve clearance, and check for air leaks . . you can do that by lowering the idle as low as possible the spray FLAMMABLE brake cleaner with the long nozzle GENTLY around the intake boot at the head . . if the rpm goes up, you have a leak.

    next, take the carb float bowl off

    open the fuel mix screw two turns

    spray brake cleaner in the tiny holes in the air cleaner side of the carb throat and look to see if any comes out the pilot jet . . if it does, that is good.

    then spray some into the pilot jet and see if it comes out in the throat of the carb . . if it does, your pilot circuit is working.

    if you have ridden it for at least 10 minutes, post a photo of the end of the spark plug.

    if it is dry black, it is too rich

    if it was new when you installed the new carb and it is nearly white, it is too lean.

    .

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
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    2,591
    What has been done to the trike? From what you describe, I'd say it's running lean. Of course if it has an air leak like barnett says, it will be running lean.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Swisher, IA
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    92
    Its pretty much all original, the bottom of the spark plug was pretty dirty which leads me to believe that it is running too rich.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    SW Oregon United States
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    145
    Sounds similar to what I was having happen on my 84es. Replaced the head gasket but after reading about the CDI box (http://www.ebay.com/itm/381395993441) in a post on this site I'm waiting for a new one to arrive. Irratic spark...works one day and won't the next. Very hard to troubleshoot when something like that is happening. It makes sense that an irratic spark will stop sparking, allowing the build up of unignited fuel and then pop with to much fuel and a backfire.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    SW Oregon United States
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    145
    Here's the link on the CDI that will hopefully fix my problem, I'll post back in a few days to update.(http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ent-MythBusted)

  9. #9
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by mendoAu View Post
    Here's the link on the CDI that will hopefully fix my problem, I'll post back in a few days to update.(http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ent-MythBusted)
    umm...wait a minute . . did i miss something?

    are you replacing your cdi box to try and make your bike leaner instead of simply checking the float level changing the main jet etc?
    .

  10. #10
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    .
    basically, in general, if a bike runs above 1/2 throttlle, the cdi is NOT the problem.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    SW Oregon United States
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    145
    In my case I don't think the problem is fuel lean/rich as much as the spark, no spark problem. Did you read that "mythbusted" thread I posted?
    Basically, in general, if when testing the plug out of the engine I'm getting a spark and install the plug, it fires up. And then ten minutes later try to start it again...nothing. Remove the plug..test..no spark. (four different plugs). Take a break until the next day...spark, and starts. Idle for awhile, shut down, have lunch and then...no spark. New carb and coil, timing / valves are A-OK. Checked all the wiring and the electric start / lights etc. work fine. Like the thread seems to state, really inconsistant and/or weak spark with old CDI boxes are somewhat common after 30 years. And with a weak or faulty spark it might make a plug look (like posted above) "dirty" or imply a rich mixture. But we'll see as soon as the new part arrives.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    SW Oregon United States
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    145
    Just trying to mention all the things to check. Noticed nobody mentioned to check the air filter and service or replace it. If it's full of dirt no matter what you do to the carb you won't be getting enough air for a proper fuel mixture, like in it will probably be rich in the combustion chamber.

  13. #13
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    .
    ok, i am quite familiar with that then

    what is the color of the spark when cdi is cold?

    how long do you have to wait until it has spark again?

    is the cdi near a heat source.

    if it takes 30 minutes or more before it has spark again, you can simply toss the cdi in the freezer for 10 minutes the next time it happens and put it back on and if it sparks, it is definitely the cdi.

    if the cdi is near a heat source not try to move it away and duct tape it ito something it you have to or wrap it on a wash cloth to protect it from heat and see if it stays running.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    SW Oregon United States
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    145
    Good advice but in the long run at this point and for just 22 bucks I think I'll rest easier with the new unit.
    To answer your questions: it's located in the stock position under the tank mounted on the frame along side of the coil. The spark seems kinda weak when it does work and suppose it is less than bright and blue, thinking back I can't really say that I can pinpoint the length of time between working and not. I'll check it out tomorrow and do the freezer thing just to see what happens.....and there's always the "toss it down firmly on the concrete and reinstall after it stops bouncing" route.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Swisher, IA
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    92
    UPDATE
    So I have an 83 200x that runs great so I took the carb off of that and put it on my 85. It was still having the same problems I mentioned in my original post. I put a brand new spark plug in and still nothing changed. I am kind of lost at this point. I don't know if it would have anything to do with the valves or the ignition coil, but that is the only other thing that comes to mind.

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