Page 7 of 30 FirstFirst ... 5 6 7 8 9 17 ... LastLast
Results 91 to 105 of 440

Thread: ATCr125x

  1. #91
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
    --
    4,736
    Flux core is tough to get a smooth looking bead unless you crank it up...heat and wire speed.

    Be careful with the 110v machines. Yes, they will weld up to 1/4 plate single pass BUT buried deep in the fine print it says you should only run continuous in like 5 second bursts or the machine is likely to overheat some internal plastic pcs on the lead trunnions and wire junction blocks. Check your user manual as I've seen Lincoln, Hobart, and Chicago Electric 110v welders do this. I melted a Craftsman/Lincoln welder installing rockers on my GTX.

    That being said, I laid miles of bead in my lifetime and I learned two things that make my beads and penetration look good. Turn the heat up. Adjust the wire speed to match but a lot of ppl are afraid to burn a hole so they weld on too low of a setting. Its way easier for me to adjust my hand speed to how high my amperage setting. The welds you showed are definitely getting better but the heat is too low still. Close but low.

    Second, its easier for me to get a real smooth and strong bead with feathered edges if I "stitch" the weld rather than just push the wire. I push forward a bit then stop and just as I stop linear motion, I just twist my hand backward like a twist throttle motion. I twist backward about 3/8 of an inch and then stop, twist back toward myself, move ahead a little and repeat. This "stitches" the weld and runs a little more heat back on the previous weld giving your base metal a bigger melt puddle and thus a smoother bead with better penetration.....Looks second, Penetration FIRST. This method works better on thinner material and with colder welding machines like yours.

    OK! .....hint #3. Don't be afraid to burn holes and you will become a master bead layer fast. The BEST way to learn how to stop fearing a burn-thru is to learn how to fix one. Everyone does it two or three times. Once you practice fixing them and get good, you'll be a better welder for it. I use the trigger to give really short bursts on the edge of holes. It only adds a 1/16 at a time at the most but it works. I also use the same method to weld sheet metal. Short bursts and let it cool in between bursts to reduce warping. It takes forever but its worth the effort.

    Flux core is tough to make pretty beads with but they hold fine if done right. I would stop using flux core and use the gas. If your bead looks like it was laid on top of the base metal, turn up the heat until it looks melted all the way into it.

    These are all just my suggestions of methods I use and your results may vary.

    Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by ironchop; 11-15-2015 at 02:48 AM.

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Surprise, AZ
    --
    2,428
    There's a few ways to do it, mine look like a " I " frame tube on top, frame tube on bottom, the gusset would be the vertical part of the " I "
    Email- onformula1@hotmail.com Rebuilt, Revalved, custom springs, lowering, forks & shocks, Custom Suspension, all brands, 2-3-4 wheeler's- PM or Email with questions.

    ***Check out my album for cool pictures*** http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=2527

    As always- Everything I post is IMHO.

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Louisiana
    --
    1,915
    Quote Originally Posted by onformula1 View Post
    There's a few ways to do it, mine look like a " I " frame tube on top, frame tube on bottom, the gusset would be the vertical part of the " I "
    Okay, then we are on the same page. That's what I meant...

    Btw, I have a gumbo on the stove right now. I'm participating in a local gumbo/chili cook off tomorrow. 3rd annual, and my 3rd entry. I plan on winning this thing tomorrow.

    Hint: It's always better the next day...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg  
    "Roll on 3"

    RIP Ol' Deuce

    "Long Live the ATC"
    Building: ATCr125x
    Riding: ATC200sx
    "I am not a mechanic, mechanics get paid for this. I do it because I enjoy it."

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Surprise, AZ
    --
    2,428
    Nice, good luck, I hope you take it!
    Email- onformula1@hotmail.com Rebuilt, Revalved, custom springs, lowering, forks & shocks, Custom Suspension, all brands, 2-3-4 wheeler's- PM or Email with questions.

    ***Check out my album for cool pictures*** http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=2527

    As always- Everything I post is IMHO.

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Louisiana
    --
    1,915
    Quote Originally Posted by ironchop View Post
    Flux core is tough to get a smooth looking bead unless you crank it up...heat and wire speed.

    Be careful with the 110v machines. Yes, they will weld up to 1/4 plate single pass BUT buried deep in the fine print it says you should only run continuous in like 5 second bursts or the machine is likely to overheat some internal plastic pcs on the lead trunnions and wire junction blocks. Check your user manual as I've seen Lincoln, Hobart, and Chicago Electric 110v welders do this. I melted a Craftsman/Lincoln welder installing rockers on my GTX.

    That being said, I laid miles of bead in my lifetime and I learned two things that make my beads and penetration look good. Turn the heat up. Adjust the wire speed to match but a lot of ppl are afraid to burn a hole so they weld on too low of a setting. Its way easier for me to adjust my hand speed to how high my amperage setting. The welds you showed are definitely getting better but the heat is too low still. Close but low.

    Second, its easier for me to get a real smooth and strong bead with feathered edges if I "stitch" the weld rather than just push the wire. I push forward a bit then stop and just as I stop linear motion, I just twist my hand backward like a twist throttle motion. I twist backward about 3/8 of an inch and then stop, twist back toward myself, move ahead a little and repeat. This "stitches" the weld and runs a little more heat back on the previous weld giving your base metal a bigger melt puddle and thus a smoother bead with better penetration.....Looks second, Penetration FIRST. This method works better on thinner material and with colder welding machines like yours.

    OK! .....hint #3. Don't be afraid to burn holes and you will become a master bead layer fast. The BEST way to learn how to stop fearing a burn-thru is to learn how to fix one. Everyone does it two or three times. Once you practice fixing them and get good, you'll be a better welder for it. I use the trigger to give really short bursts on the edge of holes. It only ads a 1/16 at a time at the most but it works. I also use the same method to weld sheet metal. Short bursts and let it cool in between bursts to reduce warping. It takes forever but its worth the effort.

    Flux core is tough to make pretty beads with but they hold fine if done right. If your bead looks like it was laid on top of the base metal, turn up the heat until it looks melted all the way into it.

    These are all just my suggestions of methods I use and your results may vary.

    Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the tips IC, I was hoping you would chime in...

    I ditched the flux for now, I'll save it for the thicker stuff. But not until I get some practice in.

    It's funny that you brought up welding holes. There were a few very small rust holes that I attempted to weld this morning. All of them grew from the size of a pencil lead to a dime. But after gathering myself I actually patched them up pretty nicely. I did like you explained, allowed it to cool, turned up the heat a little, and moved a little faster. Frightened me for a second though...
    "Roll on 3"

    RIP Ol' Deuce

    "Long Live the ATC"
    Building: ATCr125x
    Riding: ATC200sx
    "I am not a mechanic, mechanics get paid for this. I do it because I enjoy it."

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Surprise, AZ
    --
    2,428
    Quote Originally Posted by ironchop View Post
    Flux core is tough to get a smooth looking bead unless you crank it up...heat and wire speed.

    Be careful with the 110v machines. Yes, they will weld up to 1/4 plate single pass BUT buried deep in the fine print it says you should only run continuous in like 5 second bursts or the machine is likely to overheat some internal plastic pcs on the lead trunnions and wire junction blocks. Check your user manual as I've seen Lincoln, Hobart, and Chicago Electric 110v welders do this. I melted a Craftsman/Lincoln welder installing rockers on my GTX.

    That being said, I laid miles of bead in my lifetime and I learned two things that make my beads and penetration look good. Turn the heat up. Adjust the wire speed to match but a lot of ppl are afraid to burn a hole so they weld on too low of a setting. Its way easier for me to adjust my hand speed to how high my amperage setting. The welds you showed are definitely getting better but the heat is too low still. Close but low.

    Second, its easier for me to get a real smooth and strong bead with feathered edges if I "stitch" the weld rather than just push the wire. I push forward a bit then stop and just as I stop linear motion, I just twist my hand backward like a twist throttle motion. I twist backward about 3/8 of an inch and then stop, twist back toward myself, move ahead a little and repeat. This "stitches" the weld and runs a little more heat back on the previous weld giving your base metal a bigger melt puddle and thus a smoother bead with better penetration.....Looks second, Penetration FIRST. This method works better on thinner material and with colder welding machines like yours.

    OK! .....hint #3. Don't be afraid to burn holes and you will become a master bead layer fast. The BEST way to learn how to stop fearing a burn-thru is to learn how to fix one. Everyone does it two or three times. Once you practice fixing them and get good, you'll be a better welder for it. I use the trigger to give really short bursts on the edge of holes. It only ads a 1/16 at a time at the most but it works. I also use the same method to weld sheet metal. Short bursts and let it cool in between bursts to reduce warping. It takes forever but its worth the effort.

    Flux core is tough to make pretty beads with but they hold fine if done right. If your bead looks like it was laid on top of the base metal, turn up the heat until it looks melted all the way into it.

    These are all just my suggestions of methods I use and your results may vary.

    Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk
    Ever use the "Brass" to fill holes?
    Email- onformula1@hotmail.com Rebuilt, Revalved, custom springs, lowering, forks & shocks, Custom Suspension, all brands, 2-3-4 wheeler's- PM or Email with questions.

    ***Check out my album for cool pictures*** http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=2527

    As always- Everything I post is IMHO.

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Louisiana
    --
    1,915
    Quote Originally Posted by onformula1 View Post
    Nice, good luck, I hope you take it!
    Didn't even rank... oh well maybe next year... It seemed like a winner cooked it til 1:30 last night.
    "Roll on 3"

    RIP Ol' Deuce

    "Long Live the ATC"
    Building: ATCr125x
    Riding: ATC200sx
    "I am not a mechanic, mechanics get paid for this. I do it because I enjoy it."

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Surprise, AZ
    --
    2,428
    Quote Originally Posted by Jmoozy27 View Post
    Didn't even rank... oh well maybe next year... It seemed like a winner cooked it til 1:30 last night.
    Sorry man, look on the bright side I bet the winner can't build killer trikes!

    If you have ever read the book- Outliers: The Story of Success you will find that you have to put in 10,000 hours to be a top pro at something. Believe me there are some people that will do that for a local Gumbo award. I have won some private Chili, green chili and salsa competitions, but on a larger level I would get smoked, I think.
    Email- onformula1@hotmail.com Rebuilt, Revalved, custom springs, lowering, forks & shocks, Custom Suspension, all brands, 2-3-4 wheeler's- PM or Email with questions.

    ***Check out my album for cool pictures*** http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=2527

    As always- Everything I post is IMHO.

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
    --
    2,490
    Quote Originally Posted by Jmoozy27 View Post
    Btw, I have a gumbo on the stove right now. I'm participating in a local gumbo/chili cook off tomorrow.
    I was just in New Orleans Thursday night, and had some excellent gumbo at the Double Tree hotel. I was looking forward to that gumbo all day long enroute. Unfortunately, I over-sauced it a bit with the tobasco sauce, but luckily no "ring-of-fire" the next morning. Sorry to hear about the gumbo results.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Louisiana
    --
    1,915
    Quote Originally Posted by onformula1 View Post
    Sorry man, look on the bright side I bet the winner can't build killer trikes!
    Good point!!! I feel better already...
    "Roll on 3"

    RIP Ol' Deuce

    "Long Live the ATC"
    Building: ATCr125x
    Riding: ATC200sx
    "I am not a mechanic, mechanics get paid for this. I do it because I enjoy it."

  11. #101
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
    --
    17,460
    Quote Originally Posted by Jmoozy27 View Post
    The difference that mig wire and gas makes is unspeakable...


    Every weld gets better, I should've got one of these years ago...
    I also like a higher amperage and have no desire to ever use flux core.

    Just a couple things I figured out. If I burn a hole due to too much heat or a thinner area, I have turned down the amps a bit to fill the hole up and then crank it up and pass over it again with the higher amperage.

    What works for me; When I am welding hot, rather than going too fast left to right or vice versa, I bring the weld pool up and thru the middle and down, repeat, repeat, repeat. It makes a series of backwards "C's". You end up with a wider weld, not a skinny line and the more material you can cover, the stronger the weld.

    I found the Mig welder to be the easiest to learn and Tig, the hardest. I am still not getting there yet.



    Thats a vertical weld so the backwards "C's" are up or down.
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  12. #102
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Louisiana
    --
    1,915
    Got a fresh set of custom bkm bushing in today...

    Everything fits nicely...

    Even the chain aligned up as planned...

    Hell yeah!!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg   image.jpg   image.jpg  
    "Roll on 3"

    RIP Ol' Deuce

    "Long Live the ATC"
    Building: ATCr125x
    Riding: ATC200sx
    "I am not a mechanic, mechanics get paid for this. I do it because I enjoy it."

  13. #103
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Surprise, AZ
    --
    2,428
    I was walking through a fab shop today and there was a guy welding a cart, with some pretty bad welding I looked at them and he got mad and threw his nice auto helmet down on the floor and broke the lens three welds away, so I was feeling a bit jerky and layed a few down blind (eyes closed)

    Practice makes.... decent welds.



    Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk
    Email- onformula1@hotmail.com Rebuilt, Revalved, custom springs, lowering, forks & shocks, Custom Suspension, all brands, 2-3-4 wheeler's- PM or Email with questions.

    ***Check out my album for cool pictures*** http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=2527

    As always- Everything I post is IMHO.

  14. #104
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Surprise, AZ
    --
    2,428
    Quote Originally Posted by Jmoozy27 View Post
    Got a fresh set of custom bkm bushing in today...

    Everything fits nicely...

    Even the chain aligned up as planned...

    Hell yeah!!!!
    Looking good, looks like your measurements are good, bkm does some nice work... to bad he is quitting trikes... or is he after making these? I hope he continues!

    Get back the thrill bkm your are a asset to the trike community.
    Email- onformula1@hotmail.com Rebuilt, Revalved, custom springs, lowering, forks & shocks, Custom Suspension, all brands, 2-3-4 wheeler's- PM or Email with questions.

    ***Check out my album for cool pictures*** http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=2527

    As always- Everything I post is IMHO.

  15. #105
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Louisiana
    --
    1,915
    Quote Originally Posted by onformula1 View Post
    Looking good, looks like your measurements are good, bkm does some nice work... to bad he is quitting trikes... or is he after making these? I hope he continues!

    Get back the thrill bkm your are a asset to the trike community.
    The precision of the reduction sleeve was spot on. 3mm reduction is pretty precise. From what I hear it's tough to machine delrin that thin.
    "Roll on 3"

    RIP Ol' Deuce

    "Long Live the ATC"
    Building: ATCr125x
    Riding: ATC200sx
    "I am not a mechanic, mechanics get paid for this. I do it because I enjoy it."

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //