if these tooner guys around here get them to work on there civics im sure its possible on anything, I wanted to go nos boost first but was talked out of it...
if these tooner guys around here get them to work on there civics im sure its possible on anything, I wanted to go nos boost first but was talked out of it...
Suzuki ALT 50: Skeeter
Suzuki ALT 50: full suspension kit: the grasshopper
Suzuki ALT 125: The Toad
Suzuki ALT 160: Was a Quad runner 160: The Tri-Runner
Suzuki ALT 185: The Warthog
1979 Subaru brat: daily driver almost 400k runs strong
NEED ALT 50 SEAT PAN
If turbo'ed one i would have nightmares of one of those little turbocharged motors self disassembling rapidly between my legs
I have a hard time seeing the benefits of this, with all the work (time, money)you'll have to do to the motor to make it hold up to any kind of stress, all for the same power gain you would get from doing some fine tuning/one off performance stuff to the motor, with less than half of the reliability. Add to that the weight of the turbo and everything that comes along with it, and it just seems to me like you'd be sitting in the negative in the power, time, and financial departments with a trike that whistles.
I personally don't see the point but if you're dead seat on doing it ill be here cheering you on.![]()
Suicide Hill Survivor
The rides:
1981 ATC110
1982 ATC185
1983 ATC185s
1984 ATC200es
1985 ATC200x
When the going gets tough, the tough get sideways
im going off what I see with my neighbors and there turbo'ed civics, they gain HUGE power off the turbo. if they can do it so can any motor under the sun.
my trikes motor is maxxed out on mods, the only thing left to do is nos or a turbo
Suzuki ALT 50: Skeeter
Suzuki ALT 50: full suspension kit: the grasshopper
Suzuki ALT 125: The Toad
Suzuki ALT 160: Was a Quad runner 160: The Tri-Runner
Suzuki ALT 185: The Warthog
1979 Subaru brat: daily driver almost 400k runs strong
NEED ALT 50 SEAT PAN
My names Devin, and I support this idea.
If I was mechanically inclined enough, and fundamentally stable, I would put one on my suspended 110. Why? Coolness factor. Of course I have plans to bring it back to racing glory but even if it was just a backyard toy I would do it. (BUT I've had 1 alt and I would prefer stock)
Speaking of crazy ideas, where's the thread for a tricked out racing P3?
i think he should run alky and the turbo with 9 lbs of boost along with a 10 hp shot of nitrous...and yes, the turbo must be chrome!
You need this guy!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=syFAJS0XuoY
82 250r
83 Big Red
85 Auto-x
If you've done business with me please leave me feedback
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ght=Bren_downe
(Not mine)
Found this on Facebook last night, what a coincidence.
When I raced ice drags back in the 90s there was a guy in the bike class that had a cr 80 with a aircooled 250r motor in it with a leafblower piped in with pvc . That thing ripped.
250r rules
itll be a couple months before I get started on it but will post how it does, I honestly expect only a modest gain, the ecotrons kit is for 200-600cc engine and mine is 192cc, unless a smaller kit turns up I don't think my motor will have big Boost.
the nitrous setup sure is ALOT cheaper and I could hit the button when needed, its a shame itll blow my motor, there is no forged crank/piston/hd valves/springs for a Suzuki alt motor, that's where the turbo idea came in...
Suzuki ALT 50: Skeeter
Suzuki ALT 50: full suspension kit: the grasshopper
Suzuki ALT 125: The Toad
Suzuki ALT 160: Was a Quad runner 160: The Tri-Runner
Suzuki ALT 185: The Warthog
1979 Subaru brat: daily driver almost 400k runs strong
NEED ALT 50 SEAT PAN
Who told you that you need all that to run NOS? They are very wrong. Boost will hurt your engine before NOS will.
damon what do you think, I value your opinion. you think nos would be easier/more affective? most of the time im pulling/putting around but when I do ride dunes with my boyz itd be nice to have a nos or turbo option to top the steepest dunes here on the Oregon coast. a 250r is just not my style anymore.
Suzuki ALT 50: Skeeter
Suzuki ALT 50: full suspension kit: the grasshopper
Suzuki ALT 125: The Toad
Suzuki ALT 160: Was a Quad runner 160: The Tri-Runner
Suzuki ALT 185: The Warthog
1979 Subaru brat: daily driver almost 400k runs strong
NEED ALT 50 SEAT PAN
By far I would experiment with nos before a turbo
You got to realize that turbo is dead weight until it builds boost and then its aon an anvil inside that cylinder all of a sudden. It will not last. Not to mention you will rarely have time to build boost before you need to shift again to save the motor.
Nos is exactly what you need for short bursts of instant power, and when applied correctly does not wear an engine nearly as fast as a turbo setup will.
You can take 1977 caprice with a ragged out 305 and run a 100 shot of nos at the track full passes all day long. Ask me how I know. You put 12 psi of boost to that same beat 305 and youll have a head gasket leak a burned piston or a rod knock after a few hard passes.
If you're gonna do a draw through turbo you better get the right turbo too or it will self destruct.
I'm not a turbo or NOS expert, all i can tell you is what i have seen and experienced at the track and elsewhere.
Turbo engines are specifically built for turbos from the bottom up.
looks like NOS it is, anyone know a good setup/place to order other than boondocker, they are super expensive, I could turbo it for that
Suzuki ALT 50: Skeeter
Suzuki ALT 50: full suspension kit: the grasshopper
Suzuki ALT 125: The Toad
Suzuki ALT 160: Was a Quad runner 160: The Tri-Runner
Suzuki ALT 185: The Warthog
1979 Subaru brat: daily driver almost 400k runs strong
NEED ALT 50 SEAT PAN
ok, sorry that i don't know much about nitrous and superchargers, but some of the things i do know are the following.
ANY power adder will turn your piston into shrapnel if it increases the power enough.
the two biggest causes of piston failure with power adders are detonation and heat.
you can use power adders with ANY type of piston providing the amount of power they add does not exceed the pistons ability to remain in one piece, and finding exactly what that threshold for a cast piston is will be fun . . forged pistons made from 2618 material are far more resistant to damage from detonation than pistons made from 4032, VM75, and hyperutectic material are because the latter have a higher silicone content than the 2618 material ones which makes them more brittle . . when enough boost or nitrous is added, the thickness of the top of the piston dome must be increased, and JE Pistons makes pistons specifically for high boost apps.
the more boost or nitrous you run, the LESS ignition timing you can run because it increases the burn rate of the fuel . . running stock ignition timing with ANY power adder is a sure recipe for turning your piston into several smaller pieces if you use too much and it doesn't take much.
if you use the nitrous in the lower rpm range, you need a flow controller, otherwise the fuel ratio will instantly go lean and your piston will either melt or grenade if you hold the button down long enough.
if you do not use a flow controller, you should only use the nitrous at full throttle once the engine is near peak rpm and for maybe only 5 seconds at a time but your engine will still run leaner when the nitrous is activated.
because you do not have a pressurized fuel delivery system, it would be difficult to add and regulate additional fuel flow once the nitrous is induced, however, you could try a simple gravity/suction type system which would be nothing more than a T in the fuel line with the added line going to a solenoid that is activated when the nitrous button is pushed. then it goes from the solenoid to maybe a 1/4" bolt with a shoulder that has had the head cut off and maybe a .005" diameter hole drilled thru the center of it to allow the fuel to flow, which is then installed into the intake tract with a nut on both sides to hold it in place etc.
the nitrous will increase the compression, and even though it is also a cooling agent, the additional power it will create during the combustion process will be greater than its capacity to cool the engine, therefore you should run a spark plug that is at least 1 step colder than factory and set the gap to .028" because the increased compression can actually prevent the spark from jumping a wide gap.
Here's one major problem with power and power adders . . Even if one has their bike set up perfectly for the amount
power increase the power adder they are using will provide, there seems to be an odd phenomenom similar to alcohol addiction that occurs with many people, which is, one gets used to the effect provided by the power adder and ends up wanting just a little more to regain the thrill, and once they get used to that increase, they want just a little more again until their engine has finally decided it has had enough.