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Thread: First hiccup in rebuild of 200x

  1. #1
    RUNMEDOWN is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    First hiccup in rebuild of 200x

    I pulled my front hub to send to powder coat and put in new bearing and one of the bearing fell right out, the other had to be pounded out like any good bearing should. My question is for the side that just fell out; do I need to replace the entire hub (Prior to powder coating) or can I shim the new bearing to keep the hub from wobbling? I am not sure if the hub has a damaged end or if it was just a crappy old bearing making it easier to fall out. Is this common?
    85 ATC110 - The Greatest ATC of all time - (My First - new in 85)
    83 FL250 - Odyssey w/420cc - SOLD
    82 185s -10.25:1 piston, Full 200x upper, Goki Electric start - SOLD
    84 200x - Auto-X - Weisco Hi-comp, Cam'd, Bassani'd, Westcoast swinger, -SOLD
    82 200E Big Red -SOLD
    85 ATC250ES Big Red - Snow Plow !

  2. #2
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    I have never heard of an entire bearing just falling out. They usually come out in pieces when they fall out. Check and see if it the right bearing. I just changed mine this weekend and like always they take a few swings of the to come out.
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  3. #3
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    I would buy a US or Italian or Japanese made bearing . . If if goes in easily by hand, and you can feel play between the hub and the bearing, the hole is too far gone but can most likely be welded and resized on a lathe or mill.

    IF it goes in by hand but you cant feel any play, you can get the inside of the hole in the hub knurled . . This will make it up to around .004" smaller so the bearing will then be a press fit.

    A more budget method would be to put several light center punch marks inside the hub . . You can also "try" to put some on the outside of the bearing . . I have had to do this zillions of times and it works just fine if the bearing isn't sloppy in the hole but it wouldn't be recommended practice on a street bike or Ferrari etc.



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  4. #4
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    photos would help. my guess is your hub is worn out from a bead bearing and it sounds like you reinstalled used bearings anyway.

  5. #5
    RUNMEDOWN is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldskool83 View Post
    photos would help. my guess is your hub is worn out from a bead bearing and it sounds like you reinstalled used bearings anyway.
    I tossed to old bearing when I tore it apart and ordered new ones, I am waiting for them to come in. This is a slow build over the winter, I have already sent some of the other parts off to powder coat. I left the hub out of that batch until I can check it with the new bearings, if it is loose with the new bearing I will look for a new hub or have this one worked on. Thanks for the input.
    85 ATC110 - The Greatest ATC of all time - (My First - new in 85)
    83 FL250 - Odyssey w/420cc - SOLD
    82 185s -10.25:1 piston, Full 200x upper, Goki Electric start - SOLD
    84 200x - Auto-X - Weisco Hi-comp, Cam'd, Bassani'd, Westcoast swinger, -SOLD
    82 200E Big Red -SOLD
    85 ATC250ES Big Red - Snow Plow !

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    I have seen worn hubs more than once, where the bearing would slip in rather than have a tight press fit as it should. I have successfully used green Permatex #54000 "sleeve retaining" compound with no failures to date. Its meant to lock in slip-fit diesel cylinder sleeves, dries rock hard overnight, and will let go again for future bearing replacements if you heat it to about 500 degrees. Clean the bearing bore in the hub nice and clean with brake cleaner, do the same for the outside of the bearing, apply a light coating of the permatex, then slip the bearing in. Lay the hub flat overnight, so gravity holds the bearing in place, or put a big C-clamp on it for good measure. Problem solved!Click image for larger version. 

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    1985 Tri-Z 250
    1985 ATC250R

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I used a paste for a worn hub (LOCTITE 660) supposed to create pressure when curing
    Click image for larger version. 

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    http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/660-EN.PDF

  8. #8
    RUNMEDOWN is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Thanks guys, that was what I needed to know.
    85 ATC110 - The Greatest ATC of all time - (My First - new in 85)
    83 FL250 - Odyssey w/420cc - SOLD
    82 185s -10.25:1 piston, Full 200x upper, Goki Electric start - SOLD
    84 200x - Auto-X - Weisco Hi-comp, Cam'd, Bassani'd, Westcoast swinger, -SOLD
    82 200E Big Red -SOLD
    85 ATC250ES Big Red - Snow Plow !

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Similar to what drew and dave posted is a loctite compound (the # is worn off mine and it is retaining xxxxx?) but the stuff is good for .030 or 30 thousandths; Believe me, thats allot!

    I used it in many industrial applications for years without any failures. You could also buy a assorted package of brass shim paper and I've used that as well.

    In a production environment, they don't give you 4 hours to pull out a mainshaft, so the aforementioned products were quick and easy solutions.

    How many rear axles have we seen like this?? I have welded some and then turned them on my lathe, but also had success with that loctite. Your front hub is a cast aluminum and Barnett has very good suggestions, but hubs aren't commanding much money.
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  10. #10
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    Yup. Same at our shop. We knurl or dimple with a punch like Barnett and DC said and we use green loctite if the customer doesn't want to pay for a weldup and remachine.

    I also agree with DC. I would probably just buy another hub for 15 bux.

    Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

  11. #11
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    I would buy another hub.
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